94XjSport94

Both have 2WD... There is more aftermarket stuff for the 231... Some say its stronger but ahh... yeah it really comes down to personal preference and what you want to do with the jeep

zombie jeep101

Some one please explain this to me, (pics please)
What is the difference in aal and leaf springs? What do shackles look like? Sway bar? Disconects? What's better one a 3" lift? Please put pics of each individual thing and explain what it is lol

W1YX

This is a long story, so grab a coffee and sit in a comfortable position ... here we go:

My faithful friend (99 XJ 4.0L w/air & AT) has about 297k miles under her belt and would like to make it to 300k as strong as she started out. To that end I need to figure out what is causing the engine to shutdown intermittently. About 2 month ago I started getting a skip/knock that would happen only after a cold start and only one time about 5 to 10 minutes after starting up and setting off. Not too bad of a problem I thought and, since I just changed over the plugs to iridium a month earlier and I had also been getting intermittent deiseling (engine run-on after shutting off the key), my first thought was pull the fancy plugs and go back to copper. Well, as I was changing the plugs I destroyed one of the plug wires so I ended up buying good plug wires (Belden) and a quality cap and rotor and swapping all of those at the same time. The deiseling went away immediately, but the intermittent continued. Frustrating to be sure, but I pressed on ... In the next few days the engine actually completely shut down for a few minutes, right at the same point that it had been doing the skip/knock. Other times it would only shut down for several seconds, not even long enough to come to a complete stop. The dashboard lights, radio, and other accessories would continue to work while the vehicle quit and it would not start during the few longer shutdowns as if there was no spark. Okay, time to pull out the engine data reader and look further ... two historical codes - Fan Relay Fail and P0320 Crankshaft Sensor Circuit ... now the fan relay I know why that one was there. I had pulled the relay and jumpered the fan on last time I was out wheeling so no mystery there. The crank sensor one seemed like a useful clue so I reset it and waited to see if it would recur. It didn't for a few days so I had the thought that this sort of thing might be caused by the coil or the distributor pickup so I replaced the coil with a nice Eichlin one. That improved the way the engine ran some so I was optimistic. Then the skip/knock happened again the next day. Another strikout, but the coil must have been weak anyway to get the noticeable improvement that I did. It took a few days - and several short shutdowns, for it to recur, but P0320 reset. I wasn't convinced that this was a real code, since I've never heard of one failing - I was thinking more of bad/intermittent connections in the engine compartment wiring. So I reset it and it still hasn't come back a few days later. That same evening the car sat dead in my driveway for about five minutes when I went out to drive it, after I had just driven it a few hours earlier and reset the code. All power was gone, as if the battery had been disconnected. Then it started up and wouldn't idle right until it warmed up and then no further problems idling or starting as if nothing had happened. I checked the engine grounds and found that the engine ground that goes from the head to the firewall had never been reattached when the engine was swapped out last year. Since the wire was pretty well rotted anyway I made a newer and better one than the original and installed that. In the same go I cleaned and reattached the battery terminals and the large positive connection to the main fuse box in the engine compartment. I tried to get the battery to body ground loose but couldn't. I'm still a bit worried that I might have loosened it just enough to spin and fail, but not enough to clean and retighten it. I had already redone the ground connection at the coil when I reconnected the coil. I didn't feel like crawling under the Jeep so I didn't do the connections at the starter, but I don't really think they are part of the problem anyway. The voltage at that the ECU reports via the live data at the OBD II went up a few tenths of a volt and some of the live data numbers seemed a bit different so maybe this all helped, but the problem is still happening. Now it is doing it more times as the engine warms up, anywhere from 1 to 5 time, anywhere from 1 to 5 seconds, and anywhere between 2 and 10 minutes. When it did this on the way home from work today one time I noticed that the speedometer went immediately to zero and then popped back up when the engine restarted a few seconds later. Then right after that it quit again and this time the RPM gauge went down and the speedo stayed up. Arggh! I hadn't noticed this speedo thing before, so I think maybe it is new. The live data from the scanner shows both O2 sensors are responding to changes in RPM and the car is going into closed loop fine. There's lots more data there to see, but I don't know what most of it means as far as diagnosing something like this. Any help that anyone has would be appreciated greatly ... do I replace the distributor pickup, check the connections to the crankshaft sensor, replace the ECU? I'll be glad to answer any questions regarding this, give you any numbers from the live data, or attempt further diagnostic steps if someone has an idea. Please help me celebrate 300k in style!

bheath

^^^ HOLY CRAP

94xjohio

For real, a d d kick in couldn't read all of it. Think I need a nap and coffee after reading that novel

Jeepyjeepy

I would test your cps sensor directly in doing so you'll have to disconnect it so clean the connectors

MuXJ2000

Will do sir, thanks.

eziz641

Hi all

I am very happy to be a member in this forum

and I ended up finding this old girl

The owner is asking for 2666$

91 model
6Cyl
with A/C
4WD
Auto

Please advice...


The need for: offroading every weekend ( on Sand ) and every day traveling to work (total of 70 Km daily )

Road condition + Crazy drivers = the need for this car

zombie jeep101

*^^

sycoglitch

I'll explain some but you're on your own with googling pics brother. leaf springs are the rear suspension springs on a Cherokee and many other vehicles. They are what give you flex over bumps. Add A Leaf is a leaf spring however it is used to give an amount of lift and it's added to your existing leaf spring pack. Some ppl like it some hate it. A shackle is used to connect the rear of the leaf springs to the chassis of the jeep. A sway bar is used to limit body roll and it connects the body of a vehicle to the axle. Diaconnects are used to quickly remove your sway bar for better flex of road. What do you mean by what's better one a 3" lift? Please rewrite this question

NewKindOfClown

Multiple leaf springs make a leaf pack. A full leaf kit is all new springs. An AAL adds a new leaf spring into each leaf pack. This new leaf has more arch, and it holds the weight of the vehicle when the rest of the pack can't.

zombie jeep101

What I ment is I'm looking to get a series I 3" Rough country lift, is it good with the rear leafs and front springs or does it need more to the package? Series II is the same kit but with control arms. Is it worth the extra $100 for the Series 2?

sycoglitch

Ok now that's a question. How often and how hard you lookin to wheel. Also, and it MHO, try and get full leaf springs and not AAL. Everyone
Has different results with how they feel. Once we start messing with our Cherokees driveline angles alot happens. Getting better angles control arms makes or a better ride and better flex. What happens eventually is you'll start your lift and then realize you need X amount of something else after a wheeling trip. If you only wheel once in a while don't go crazy right away. Plus the higher you go the more te need for a SyE and all this other stuff

94xjohio

Get the series 2. Too have the control arms for an extra 100 it is WELL worth it. From no wheeling to once awhile wheeling.

zombie jeep101

Cool, I don't plan on wheeling much or hard. Just a few trails with loose dirt, pot holes, sticks and bumps. No rock climbing or anything. Mainly gettin it because my suspension is wayyyyy too old. So final decision, +$100 for control arms??