Originally Posted by Sails

Is that the push button tab on the outside used to adjust them?
Thanks!

Originally Posted by tjh95cherokee

I start my car up it runs fine, but about 30 seconds into running it bogs down to about 200-300 rpm and then jumps right back up and idles fine...I've also noticed my gas mileage has gown down,

Originally Posted by I Leak Oil

Unbolt first bolt on rails(closest to windshield) pull off end caps. Then slide crossbars off

Originally Posted by Tdrake

My rubicon express kit comes with a new swaybar endlink setup and need to replace a part with a new bolt but we cant get the old ones out.

The bolt in front of the shock

Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

It's pressed in. Use a puller or a hammer

Originally Posted by W1YX

This is a long story, so grab a coffee and sit in a comfortable position ... here we go:

My faithful friend (99 XJ 4.0L w/air & AT) has about 297k miles under her belt and would like to make it to 300k as strong as she started out. To that end I need to figure out what is causing the engine to shutdown intermittently. About 2 month ago I started getting a skip/knock that would happen only after a cold start and only one time about 5 to 10 minutes after starting up and setting off. Not too bad of a problem I thought and, since I just changed over the plugs to iridium a month earlier and I had also been getting intermittent deiseling (engine run-on after shutting off the key), my first thought was pull the fancy plugs and go back to copper. Well, as I was changing the plugs I destroyed one of the plug wires so I ended up buying good plug wires (Belden) and a quality cap and rotor and swapping all of those at the same time. The deiseling went away immediately, but the intermittent continued. Frustrating to be sure, but I pressed on ... In the next few days the engine actually completely shut down for a few minutes, right at the same point that it had been doing the skip/knock. Other times it would only shut down for several seconds, not even long enough to come to a complete stop. The dashboard lights, radio, and other accessories would continue to work while the vehicle quit and it would not start during the few longer shutdowns as if there was no spark. Okay, time to pull out the engine data reader and look further ... two historical codes - Fan Relay Fail and P0320 Crankshaft Sensor Circuit ... now the fan relay I know why that one was there. I had pulled the relay and jumpered the fan on last time I was out wheeling so no mystery there. The crank sensor one seemed like a useful clue so I reset it and waited to see if it would recur. It didn't for a few days so I had the thought that this sort of thing might be caused by the coil or the distributor pickup so I replaced the coil with a nice Eichlin one. That improved the way the engine ran some so I was optimistic. Then the skip/knock happened again the next day. Another strikout, but the coil must have been weak anyway to get the noticeable improvement that I did. It took a few days - and several short shutdowns, for it to recur, but P0320 reset. I wasn't convinced that this was a real code, since I've never heard of one failing - I was thinking more of bad/intermittent connections in the engine compartment wiring. So I reset it and it still hasn't come back a few days later. That same evening the car sat dead in my driveway for about five minutes when I went out to drive it, after I had just driven it a few hours earlier and reset the code. All power was gone, as if the battery had been disconnected. Then it started up and wouldn't idle right until it warmed up and then no further problems idling or starting as if nothing had happened. I checked the engine grounds and found that the engine ground that goes from the head to the firewall had never been reattached when the engine was swapped out last year. Since the wire was pretty well rotted anyway I made a newer and better one than the original and installed that. In the same go I cleaned and reattached the battery terminals and the large positive connection to the main fuse box in the engine compartment. I tried to get the battery to body ground loose but couldn't. I'm still a bit worried that I might have loosened it just enough to spin and fail, but not enough to clean and retighten it. I had already redone the ground connection at the coil when I reconnected the coil. I didn't feel like crawling under the Jeep so I didn't do the connections at the starter, but I don't really think they are part of the problem anyway. The voltage at that the ECU reports via the live data at the OBD II went up a few tenths of a volt and some of the live data numbers seemed a bit different so maybe this all helped, but the problem is still happening. Now it is doing it more times as the engine warms up, anywhere from 1 to 5 time, anywhere from 1 to 5 seconds, and anywhere between 2 and 10 minutes. When it did this on the way home from work today one time I noticed that the speedometer went immediately to zero and then popped back up when the engine restarted a few seconds later. Then right after that it quit again and this time the RPM gauge went down and the speedo stayed up. Arggh! I hadn't noticed this speedo thing before, so I think maybe it is new. The live data from the scanner shows both O2 sensors are responding to changes in RPM and the car is going into closed loop fine. There's lots more data there to see, but I don't know what most of it means as far as diagnosing something like this. Any help that anyone has would be appreciated greatly ... do I replace the distributor pickup, check the connections to the crankshaft sensor, replace the ECU? I'll be glad to answer any questions regarding this, give you any numbers from the live data, or attempt further diagnostic steps if someone has an idea. Please help me celebrate 300k in style!

Originally Posted by donkeypunch

I don't doubt your knowledge on xj's, by any means. But using a puller or hammer did nothing but give me problems. I even used my ball-joint clamp and it still did not budge.
I just put in a set of quick disconnects this past weekend, on both mine and a friends xj. I used the BFH and all I did was bend the bracket, and yes if you are asking yourself, I did brace the back side of the bracket to keep it from bending. My mini-sledge was not working. I used a puller and it would seem to work but the puller would end up popping off, due to the tension of the bolt not moving. The only thing that worked was to use a grinder and cut off the head and tail section of the bolt. I drilled a series of holes through the middle .125", .25" and finished with a .375" bit. Air hammer popped out what was left. After we figured out this procedure the other xj took 30minutes from pulling into the garage to test drive.
A puller or BFH may work for you but be prepared for it not to is all I'm saying.

Originally Posted by bloddy mud

how to you get the shift handle off a 93 automatic

Originally Posted by dukie564

really hard

Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Just don't punch your self in the face! Or do just get it on video.