norcofanatic

Hey I got a 97 limited cherokee... When I start it up and start driving I get this scratching noise coming from the front right end of the vehicle. After about 5 minutes of driving, the noise is not apparent when accelerating from stops anymore. Also, when you initially start it up, if you rev it a few times (3000ish rpm) you will hear the scratching noises, and then u wont hear them again for the remainder of drive. Does anyone know what this is? Also, when u don't rev it before you get going, the noise seem to occur right as its changing from 1st to 2nd... Thanks!

cob24

I had some issues with my water pump recently so I replaced it. Then when i was squeezing on the upper radiator hose I tore that. My buddy told me I probably shoulda replaced all the hoses but its my daily driver so i didnt have time to go back to autozone (I know I know). So i replaced the radiator hose and in the picture is where I stopped pushing it. Its stopped right in front of that tab. Is that right? Its almost touching the engine in the back (if not touching). So is that tab a stop point or something im supposed to go over?

Also since the coolant leak when I start it up i get what looks like steam out of the engine, but only when I first start it up, but once i start driving it the exhaust color goes away. Any thoughts?

I hope the pic is big enough for yall to notice its the biggest version I was allowed to upload

1988BlueBullet

Have you checked the crank position sensor?

ohiobuckeye

i have a 95 cherokee sport with the L6. it was purchased with a now known blown headgsket and ended up being a cracked head. upon tearing it down i found the folllowing that needed to be replaced:

water pump
timing gears and chain
thermostat housing and thermostat

i replaced the head with a reconditioned with all new internals. i found that when i pulled the timing cover off that the cam gear was 180 degrees off from where it should be for it to be timed up right. i only have the haynes manual for it but the info their matched everything i could find on how to time it up correctly being that you put the two marks right beside each other. the distributor was also not on the number one spark plug it was between that one and the next one in line in the dist cap. fast forward and now it wont start. i checked everything fuel spark and all sensors. everything was workin fine on the truck when it was tore down except the rough idle. if i hold the gas pedal down it will detonate in the head like it is out of timing. i know the obviouse thing to try is to put the cam gear back 180 out and see what happens i guess. i am also curiose if i can turn the cam seperately from the crank without damaging any of the valves or would i have to pull the head again. if anyone has ran into this or has any info that might help it would be greatly appreciated.

fantic238

You have a liberty. The VM 2.8 is a common rail direct injected diesel, so you will need sinthetic 10w 40 oil.

fantic238

No

fantic238

Replace the crankshaft position sensor CPS on the bellhousing, drivers side.

fantic238

Tighten the serpentine belt.

fantic238

It's ok.

fantic238

You've should have left it like that. The camshaft and distributor were indexed to the 6th cylinder in TDC compression stroke instead of the 1st. No big deal. Mechanics who don't know the marks do that in the old school way, good mechanics do that.
If you have put the dot's together you need to re-index the distributor aswell.
I've explained that in my previous posts. (post 1290, page 86)
You gotta find out wether the first cylinder is in TDC compression stroke or exhaust stroke and then point the distributor rotor towards the n°1 wire and then complete the fireing order. (1-5-3-6-2-4, clockwise).

kriebz

I have a squeak that goes away after the engine warms up, and I'm hoping it's something on the accessory train. When it's been run a while, the grease in whatever bearing is squeaking loosens up (or so I hope), and I'll fix it when it finally breaks. Maybe that's your problem. Have someone sit in the car and tap the peddle while you listen under the hood. Use a piece of tube like a stethoscope if you need to, and stay clear of the fan! Also look for signs of wear on the fan shroud and other stuff up by the radiator (with car off and key out). E-fan shrouds are often broken.

Skipper

You don't need the sway bar on the rear but you still need it for the front. If you dont remove it, it will keep the back from articulating fully.

superdave

Hi guys,

I've got a 97 Cherokee 6cyl. with manual transmission. 200,000 miles.

The windshield washer pump has not worked in about a year, and I decided to try and fix it. I disconnected the plug at the pump and tested it with a volt meter and it indicated that the pump was getting current, so I'm planning to replace the pump. (It's pretty badly rusted, so this doesn't surprise me.)

Here's the problem. I plugged it back in and and everything was fine, but then this morning I noticed that the radio wasn't working. Also, the speedometer, fuel gauge, tach, everything was on zero. Dome light is also not working. Headlights work and dashboard lights come on. The engine runs just fine and I drove it to work. I checked the fuses but they all appear to be fine. There are a couple black square ones that I'm guessing are relays that I couldn't check, but they don't appear to have anything to do with the instrument cluster.

One last piece of information. There was some kind of plug on the firewall located near the top of the firewall on the passenger side. It's right up near the hood. This burned away about a year ago. I'm not sure what it was, but it didn't seem to affect anything so I ignored it. I don't think it's related but maybe it is. It may have been the diagnostic connector??

I've read that it may be a grounding problem. Where do I even start to look for that? My real question is for someone that's not good at electrical, is this a simple fix or am I better off taking it to a repair shop. I can do most things mechanical, but sensors and meters and tracking down circuits are a royal pain. My fear is that the garage is going to spend 8 hours at $100 per hour looking for a corroded wire.

Any ideas?? The Chilton's guide I got from the library isn't much of a help.

Superdave

LiftedXJ

Hey everyone,

I just recently picked up a 1994 Cherokee SE, I6, Automatic, Command-Trac.. I'm curious to know how am I able to identify if it has a Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 Rear End??

Thanks in advanace for the help!

BlueXJ

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This should help.