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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Browse all: Jeep Cherokee XJ Interior Guides
XJ Dash Lights Mod
#482
Since the stock bulbs are indifferent to polarity, I don't think you'll find that information on anything outside of design/engineering documents.
Plug in your LEDs, hook up cluster, turn on headlights. If one doesn't work, take it out, flip it around, and try again.
Plug in your LEDs, hook up cluster, turn on headlights. If one doesn't work, take it out, flip it around, and try again.
#484
I tried amber but very little light passed through the filters. I think the cluster would have to modified somehow for it to work. Red worked, but required brighter LEDs than the blue, green, and white versions.
#485
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, Tn
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6
Okay cool, was your XJ per or post '97? I have a late '90 and the only filters I see are just the one on the incandescent bulbs itself. I'm replacing all the dash panel lights with amber ones soon, so far I just replaced the three micro sized bulbs in the factory radio.
#486
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, Tn
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6
Also before I order the LEDs for that climate control setting, If I get cool white for the hot and cold setting would that color transfuse with the colors for the fan setting or the vent position setting?
#487
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Finleyville, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The stock AC panel has the colors printed into it. So red LED would light the cold up purpleish.
IIRC, there is only 2 light bulbs in there. if you wanted to light up separate sides of the AC control, you would need to tweak something or replace the factory cover.
IIRC, there is only 2 light bulbs in there. if you wanted to light up separate sides of the AC control, you would need to tweak something or replace the factory cover.
#488
My Facebook page shows what one white led will do for the 84-96 climate control panel. There is only one light in those years. I seem to recall being able to see red better tha. The photo shows, but it wis comparatively dim.
The 97+ uses two lights.
Yellow should work with your panel. The trick will be finding LEDs that are bright enough while still small enough to fit the enclosure. If you really want yellow, I suggest working with Assy to make something that will show yellow better than the unmodified stock panel.
Too much work for most people, so you'd end up with something nearly unique. I sell only white blue and green sets... or rather I will once I find a manufacturer that is less creative than my last one. Unfortunately their only creativity was with ways to be cheap extra cheap.
https://www.facebook.com/onewaylight..._user_activity
The 97+ uses two lights.
Yellow should work with your panel. The trick will be finding LEDs that are bright enough while still small enough to fit the enclosure. If you really want yellow, I suggest working with Assy to make something that will show yellow better than the unmodified stock panel.
Too much work for most people, so you'd end up with something nearly unique. I sell only white blue and green sets... or rather I will once I find a manufacturer that is less creative than my last one. Unfortunately their only creativity was with ways to be cheap extra cheap.
https://www.facebook.com/onewaylight..._user_activity
#489
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 2
From: Denver, Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Does anyone have a picture of warm white LEDs? In the gauge cluster. I want to get rid of the green. I painted my needles red but I want white lettering instead of green.
#490
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Finleyville, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The green is printed into the stock gauge face. Short of removing it, and scraping off layers of bonded plastic screenprint, or overpowering it with a very bright light, it wont change.
Only other route for an XJ right now is to go with one of my kits (I believe we are the only ones making a set).
As for yellow lighting, you could use normal bulbs and not put the blue filters on, or put in amber incandescent bulbs.
Only other route for an XJ right now is to go with one of my kits (I believe we are the only ones making a set).
As for yellow lighting, you could use normal bulbs and not put the blue filters on, or put in amber incandescent bulbs.
#491
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 375
Likes: 2
From: Denver, Colorado
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The green is printed into the stock gauge face. Short of removing it, and scraping off layers of bonded plastic screenprint, or overpowering it with a very bright light, it wont change. Only other route for an XJ right now is to go with one of my kits (I believe we are the only ones making a set). As for yellow lighting, you could use normal bulbs and not put the blue filters on, or put in amber incandescent bulbs.
#492
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 922
Likes: 65
From: Abysmo, NJ
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I installed my blue LEDs today when swapping in an instrument cluster that has a full gauge set.
In case anyone wants to know the cluster polarity as a reference, when looking at the back you'll see that the sockets on the circuit board have contact pads arranged diagonally, lower left and upper right. The lower left contact on all of them EXCEPT the one for the temperature gauge is positive polarity. On the temp gauge the upper right is positive. (This is on the late-model '97+ cluster viewed from the back. Don't know about the earlier ones.)
What I did was to test and mark each LED for polarity, then also mark the bulb holder so I could see the position. The LEDs were installed so that the positive terminal on each was on the lower left -- there was a 50/50 chance of being right. Turned on the lights and they all came on! I should have played the lottery today!
A couple of notes - I found the LEDs were pretty loose in the bulb holders, one actually came off inside the cluster when installed. (Fortunately I was able to shake it out.) Squeezing the contacts inside the holders tightend up the fit. Also I found the only hard part of the project was removing the left-hand dash panel, due to the thick rubber gasket that goes around the steering column and the paddle for the steering colum adjustment being in the way. It looked like I'd need to cut the rubber piece to take the panel off but I did not want to do that. I wound up just rotating it up and to the left to make enough room to swap the cluster. (Then later I found out that rubber gasket snaps apart at the bottom, making removal of the panel easy. D'oh!)
In case anyone wants to know the cluster polarity as a reference, when looking at the back you'll see that the sockets on the circuit board have contact pads arranged diagonally, lower left and upper right. The lower left contact on all of them EXCEPT the one for the temperature gauge is positive polarity. On the temp gauge the upper right is positive. (This is on the late-model '97+ cluster viewed from the back. Don't know about the earlier ones.)
What I did was to test and mark each LED for polarity, then also mark the bulb holder so I could see the position. The LEDs were installed so that the positive terminal on each was on the lower left -- there was a 50/50 chance of being right. Turned on the lights and they all came on! I should have played the lottery today!
A couple of notes - I found the LEDs were pretty loose in the bulb holders, one actually came off inside the cluster when installed. (Fortunately I was able to shake it out.) Squeezing the contacts inside the holders tightend up the fit. Also I found the only hard part of the project was removing the left-hand dash panel, due to the thick rubber gasket that goes around the steering column and the paddle for the steering colum adjustment being in the way. It looked like I'd need to cut the rubber piece to take the panel off but I did not want to do that. I wound up just rotating it up and to the left to make enough room to swap the cluster. (Then later I found out that rubber gasket snaps apart at the bottom, making removal of the panel easy. D'oh!)
Last edited by Rambler65; 11-02-2015 at 09:57 AM.
#493
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Westchester, NY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Great posts guys, this looks great.
An FYI on the colors and night vision, not that it really matters but red/orange lights are easier on your eyes at night than blue. Red wavelengths have less of an affect on your ability to see at night. With blue colors, your eyes take longer to adjust to the information coming in. It seems counter intuitive but it's true. I work in lighting btw.
Although it contradicts what I posted I think I'll take a stab at the blue leds this week. The color combo reminds me of the VW dashes which look great.
An FYI on the colors and night vision, not that it really matters but red/orange lights are easier on your eyes at night than blue. Red wavelengths have less of an affect on your ability to see at night. With blue colors, your eyes take longer to adjust to the information coming in. It seems counter intuitive but it's true. I work in lighting btw.
Although it contradicts what I posted I think I'll take a stab at the blue leds this week. The color combo reminds me of the VW dashes which look great.
#494
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's been years, but from what I remember ... seems like the 'war room' onboard ship had dim blue lighting (enough to see you shoes) and red at the control panels/ work stations... but like I said it's been a long time.