jpmarine6786

And I won't let me post 2 pics so here is the shifters.
As you can see my tcase one is all messed up. On the auto shifter I removed the green filter and taped a piece of paper to the underneath of the clear part to block some light and provide a white background during the day.

RacerX

Looks nice, but I find red a little distracting

Ok found War room pics, and explanation:

ih8cornnuts

I'll take a stab at the thought process for the war room lighting being that the explanation in the photo isn't that...explanatory.

Blue spectrum light increases the amount of contrast we see. The screens are black but the lines and imagery on the screen is all warmer colors (red, orange, yellow, etc.). The blue ambient light in this case increases the viewers contrast to be able to see the screens better. Alternatively, if the ambient light was red your ability to see the details in the screen would drop.

Being that most ships were built during a time when Incandescent lighting (high in red wavelength light) was "go-to" light source. The white light of an incandescent would limit visibility.

The other component would have to do with Melatonin production and staying alert. Blue light helps boost the immune system when our bodies are exposed to it during the day. Blue light during sleep is extremely bad. They could be using the blue light to keep crews awake during off hours when the body "wants" to rest.

woolybugger226

Very informative stuff. I knew blue light increased the amount of contrast we see.. Did not know about the blue-light during sleep stuff.

jpmarine6786

The shifters aren't as bright as they appear in the pic. My radio is brighter.

1DogRescuer

It's been a long time since this Thread has been active. Wanted to share some general lighting / LED information that may or may not prove useful to those who don't start at the beginning of a Thread. Asking questions that have already been covered can be frustrating to your peers.

Application for your specific vehicle ... "Google is your Friend" type in YOUR SPECIFIC vehicle + " bulb chart " .... and your questions will be answered, without tying up bandwidth here.

Lumen is the term used for light OUTPUT [brightness]. Most of the Chinese sellers don't bother to put that info, so you either ask for it, or buy from someone who does provide that info. Wattage can also be a good indicator of 'brightness'. In addition, when you look at the bulbs that appear to have a flat, yellowish circle where you presume the light is ... those are referred to as COB [Chip On Board] & sometimes SMD. There is a big difference in Light Output among those alone. 5050 refers to the surface area of that ['chip']. 5730 is a lot brighter than 2835. Having 12 TINY COB LEDs isn't always going to make for a brighter light. Rather, you often get 12 tiny, faint dots as opposed to one large 'pad' of light. YMMV

The "glass" drop-looking LEDs, the type that we are most accustomed to seeing have different ways to determine Luminence / Luminosity. Typically, overall "drop" size [glass part]. 3mm, 5mm, 9mm .... They also put light out in a broader [pattern], usually 360*. Wedge/cone will put out light 'sideways', and then there's also a straight, focused, beamlike projection. Many indicators to consider when swapping to LEDs. I love the finished product, myself; and, am also a huge fan of anything that reduces [temperature]. I've experienced car fires .... :~0

If you're doing say, the Cluster, just get new bases. They're CHEAP. This, in contrast to pulling apart incandescent bulb from OE base. As has been mentioned, the gray bases are PART of the bulb, and NOT to be separated. In the event of a failure, the ENTIRE piece is replaced. The Brown ones are separate bases from the bulb, itself, and can therefore be reused if you so choose.

When you turn on ANY car's interior illumination, note what color the [gauge light] is, and when the bulb is REMOVED, if it is CLEAR, that tells you that the instrument has a colored diffuser IN THE INSTRUMENT. If it's say, GREEN, and you put in a RED bulb .... it's NOT going to be Red !! If the OE bulb comes out of the socket colored, that tells you that the instrument does NOT have a colored Diffuser, and you can change color of illumination by freely choosing the color of BULB that you want. This should answer the [repetitive] Question, "will this make may gauges purple ?".

The [repetitive] question of how to change light INSIDE of a switch ... No, it's not impossible. It does, however require CAREFULLY disassembling the switch, desoldering the old bulb, and then soldering in a new LED. LEDs cannot take heat, so if you are not very comfortable soldering, you will fry it. And, of course, if you don't orient the polarity correct, you will reassemble a switch that will not light up. Say Multimeter ....

Regarding Halogen bulbs [anywhere ... house, car, yard lights ...] if you TOUCH the bulb with your fingers while installing it, the bulb will Burn Out QUICKLY. I've read about people scratching their heads as to why their expensive new bulbs "didn't last very long" in forums for Decades. The oils from your skin create hotspots on the glass, and they will burn out in short order ... Guaranteed. Top Tip: take them out of their packaging with a piece of tissue / toilet paper between your fingers and the glass. Keep that [barrier] between your fingers and the glass every time that you touch that bulb, until it is fastened into its socket and installed.

Predetermining polarity ... "YouTube is your Friend". There you can learn how to use a Multimeter, and it will open up All Sorts Of [Possibilities] for you ;~} I'm a Newbie to Jeeps, and here to learn about them, as many of you are; however, before I ask questions that very likely have been covered already, in a 34page Thread, I usually Google. It's AMAZING how much I learn from Googling & YouTube .... and I don't run the risk of annoying anyone.

Hopefully this Post is a positive contribution to the community, and will save some [despair] for some. It's well-intentioned

Razzle308

Hey.
How did you work out polarity orientation on the leds in the warning light cluster?

RacerX

Just test them as you install
--> Mark the Positive ...(- or neg) side, wire, heat-shrink ... or whatever you solder it to.