XJ Stubborn hood latches
#1
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 323
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
XJ Stubborn hood latches
Problem of the week: I have an issue with the hood latch release cable.
So far, I've bought a new cable and installed it, filled it with 3 x 1 oil. It slides as easily as any cable would.
I've cleaned the already clean latches on both sides, and they operate smoothly as they should.
When I "close" the two latches to test the operation of the cable, an easy pull of the cable handle inside opens both simultaneously.
If I do the same with the hood lowered without latching the two latches, pulling the cable pull inside releases them smoothly as well.
Perfect, right? Wrong.
If I completely close the hood, it takes a superman to unlatch the hood. The pull handle pulls smoothly until it reaches the point of "unlatching" and stops. Unless I pull the living daylights out of it, it won't open.
I've tried slightly bending the connecting rod between the two latches so both do not open at the same moment, and nada. Still the same.
The cable is supposed to be mounted in two guides; one near the center of the hood, and one on the bottom(back) of the hood roughly located about the master cylinder.
I've tried it with the cable in both guides, one only, then the other, then neither.
Zilch.
Has anyone here every swapped the latches out for a different type or style?
It's really aggravating, because the darn thing should be a simple pull and pop open. Or is that not the case?
So far, I've bought a new cable and installed it, filled it with 3 x 1 oil. It slides as easily as any cable would.
I've cleaned the already clean latches on both sides, and they operate smoothly as they should.
When I "close" the two latches to test the operation of the cable, an easy pull of the cable handle inside opens both simultaneously.
If I do the same with the hood lowered without latching the two latches, pulling the cable pull inside releases them smoothly as well.
Perfect, right? Wrong.
If I completely close the hood, it takes a superman to unlatch the hood. The pull handle pulls smoothly until it reaches the point of "unlatching" and stops. Unless I pull the living daylights out of it, it won't open.
I've tried slightly bending the connecting rod between the two latches so both do not open at the same moment, and nada. Still the same.
The cable is supposed to be mounted in two guides; one near the center of the hood, and one on the bottom(back) of the hood roughly located about the master cylinder.
I've tried it with the cable in both guides, one only, then the other, then neither.
Zilch.
Has anyone here every swapped the latches out for a different type or style?
It's really aggravating, because the darn thing should be a simple pull and pop open. Or is that not the case?
#4
Look to see where the striker on the hood has been hitting the latch mechanism. You may have to tap it forward or back to strike properly.
I had to adjust mine a bit and then put some lithium grease on it. Works much better now.
It used to feel like the cable would snap whenever I pulled it.
I had to adjust mine a bit and then put some lithium grease on it. Works much better now.
It used to feel like the cable would snap whenever I pulled it.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 4
From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Mine does the same ****, Ill fix it at somepoint. But the trick to not need superman is to have someone smack the hood above the latches as you pull the release. Mine is probably from my hood spacers.
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just changed my left striker and the bellcrank the other day. The striker was bent (somehow) and the bellcrank was all corroded and gunked up from years of slopping oil on the mechanism.
I had a ruff time finding rivets for the bellcrank but found them at Fastenal. Also, very lucky that my neighbor had a BMF rivet pulller to pull those giant rivets.
Had a heck of a time pulling the release handle because of the bellcrank and was scared it would break so I sent the big bux (Mopar parts) and replaced them.
The laches were okay and just needed cleaning and lube.
I had a ruff time finding rivets for the bellcrank but found them at Fastenal. Also, very lucky that my neighbor had a BMF rivet pulller to pull those giant rivets.
Had a heck of a time pulling the release handle because of the bellcrank and was scared it would break so I sent the big bux (Mopar parts) and replaced them.
The laches were okay and just needed cleaning and lube.
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#8
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 323
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
Cool! Lots of great suggestions. I'm gonna keep playing around with it and see what I come up with.
It seems to release the easiest when the cable is not held in the plastic mounts.
I haven't really looked at the position of the hood latches when they drop into the bottom ring, so I'm gonna start looking at that. It may be getting pinched when it sets down.
Just out of curiosity, do any of you guys have hoods that release with a bare minimum of effort? Or is the hard to pull hood release common?
It seems to release the easiest when the cable is not held in the plastic mounts.
I haven't really looked at the position of the hood latches when they drop into the bottom ring, so I'm gonna start looking at that. It may be getting pinched when it sets down.
Just out of curiosity, do any of you guys have hoods that release with a bare minimum of effort? Or is the hard to pull hood release common?
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What do you mean "if pull cable doesnt work"? Does the handle pull out all the way and it won't open? Does the handle stay put and you can't pull it back? Does it pull part way? Lots of if's and questions. Lots of possibilities.
#14
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 144
Likes: 6
From: Bernardsville, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter 242 CI
I was actually following your directions from another thread on looking for an evap leak. I was following the hoses from the evap canister to the engine compartment when I found out I could not open the hood.
#15
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 426
Likes: 9
From: Groveland, CA
Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I always wondered how you open the hood after the cable fails or breaks. I know how it is done at the junk yard. But no way!!!! on my XJ.