XJ is wanting to overheat.
#32
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
weird, so its telling you its cold always?
Anyways, I think I am gonna take the XJ to work tomorrow, I am a little nervous, I work out in the middle of nowhere and I dont want to get stranded, but we will see what happens
Anyways, I think I am gonna take the XJ to work tomorrow, I am a little nervous, I work out in the middle of nowhere and I dont want to get stranded, but we will see what happens
#34
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
there is no chrysler or jeep dealer here, they closed.
Honestly probably the same asian company makes t-stats both for jeep and for the aftermarket.
when I worked at Pepboys, I learned the ugly secrets of private labeling
Honestly probably the same asian company makes t-stats both for jeep and for the aftermarket.
when I worked at Pepboys, I learned the ugly secrets of private labeling
#35
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
drove the old XJ to work today, its about 30 miles from my place, its some highway, some surface streets.
I tried to keep it from 1500-2000 rpm range to see if it would get hot
Well I am pleased to report that she did good, and didnt get hot at all.
it stayed in between the 100 and 1/4 hash mark the hole time.
Last time I made this run under the same conditions and on the highway she jumped up to 260 in a hurry and left me stranded half way to work.
So I think its sufficiently proven that the t-stat was the problem.
thanks for the tips guys
I tried to keep it from 1500-2000 rpm range to see if it would get hot
Well I am pleased to report that she did good, and didnt get hot at all.
it stayed in between the 100 and 1/4 hash mark the hole time.
Last time I made this run under the same conditions and on the highway she jumped up to 260 in a hurry and left me stranded half way to work.
So I think its sufficiently proven that the t-stat was the problem.
thanks for the tips guys
#36
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
where is a good place to put a temperature probe for an aftermarket aux fan switch? I was looking at Autozone and they just have these push in probes, any ideas?
#37
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Year: 1992 & 1995
Model: Cherokee
I have found that the probes that push into the rad are very slow to react.
Now I only use the "hard line" probes that slip into the rad hose where it mounts to the T-stat housing, a little blob of sealant around the the copper line seals it up nicely once the hose clamp is snuged up. The only draw back is they don't look as neat and clean.
But then it's a jeep not a show car.
Chris
Now I only use the "hard line" probes that slip into the rad hose where it mounts to the T-stat housing, a little blob of sealant around the the copper line seals it up nicely once the hose clamp is snuged up. The only draw back is they don't look as neat and clean.
But then it's a jeep not a show car.
Chris
#38
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Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i like to run a bit cooler so i did the hood spacers on the hinge thing and installed two elec fans on a switch and i never over heat unless i forget to turn the fans on lol but they arent hard to the battery there are on one of the ignition on fuses, but i also replaced my entire cooling system too lol
#39
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
I have found that the probes that push into the rad are very slow to react.
Now I only use the "hard line" probes that slip into the rad hose where it mounts to the T-stat housing, a little blob of sealant around the the copper line seals it up nicely once the hose clamp is snuged up. The only draw back is they don't look as neat and clean.
But then it's a jeep not a show car.
Chris
Now I only use the "hard line" probes that slip into the rad hose where it mounts to the T-stat housing, a little blob of sealant around the the copper line seals it up nicely once the hose clamp is snuged up. The only draw back is they don't look as neat and clean.
But then it's a jeep not a show car.
Chris
If I have to use a push in probe I think I am going to fab up a temperature well and put a swagelok connector on the push in probe and put it in the well, should look much cleaner
#41
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
PROBLEM SOLVED!
Well since I had removed the t-stat and drove it around and figured out it was the t-stat that was bad, I went and popped in a Super-Stant 195 degree stat
So I popped it in and while I was filling it I figured out a way to bleed out the air without running it.
What I did was I had installed the Prestone flush Tee fitting, so I had put it half way up the heater hose, so I disconnected the hose, and put a funnel in the engine side, and just lifted the hoses straight up and proceeded to fill the funnel then squeeze the main hoses and the bubbles came out and it filled up, so then to close it up, I put my thumbs in the hoses and quickly I jammed them together with just a little coolant loss.
I also fixed the aux fan.
I started thinking that maybe I overtightened the new temp switch, which caused it to over-penetrate and contact the other side of the coolant passage. so when I replaced t-stat I was right, so I pulled it out and I reinstalled it correctly with no contact between the probes tip and the inside of the coolant passage in the t-stat housing and BAM it works now.
So all is good.
Hopefully if anybody else has this issue, they can try these things and see if it helps.
So I popped it in and while I was filling it I figured out a way to bleed out the air without running it.
What I did was I had installed the Prestone flush Tee fitting, so I had put it half way up the heater hose, so I disconnected the hose, and put a funnel in the engine side, and just lifted the hoses straight up and proceeded to fill the funnel then squeeze the main hoses and the bubbles came out and it filled up, so then to close it up, I put my thumbs in the hoses and quickly I jammed them together with just a little coolant loss.
I also fixed the aux fan.
I started thinking that maybe I overtightened the new temp switch, which caused it to over-penetrate and contact the other side of the coolant passage. so when I replaced t-stat I was right, so I pulled it out and I reinstalled it correctly with no contact between the probes tip and the inside of the coolant passage in the t-stat housing and BAM it works now.
So all is good.
Hopefully if anybody else has this issue, they can try these things and see if it helps.
#42
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Year: 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
i know this might sound stupid but mine did the same thing i looked every were could not fine anything over looked the simplest thing my radiator cap was a little bent did not seal all the way and dident leak all over bought a new one runs about 190-200
#43
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
what is the question?
is this temperature range normal?
if so then yea thats fine, mine usually hovers around the 210 mark, just a tiny bit over sometimes and sometimes maybe 1/4 less
#44
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Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
i replaced my radiator cause it cracked, all the hoses, i put a 185 t-stat in it, and it runs GREAT, it still tends to get a little warm from time to time but as soon as the fan kicks on it cools it right down, and that only happens if im idling for extended periods
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