redbond4

OK I have just put my 99 classic out to pasture after owning from new. I just purchased a 98 classic to replace the 99 and yes it has the power window / lock problem. I have removed the drivers side door loom and fixed all broken wires. Checked the loom for continuity and replaced in door. Both front driver and passenger side switch assembly's are new (purchased from amazon. drivers side is from switch doctor. Not sure who makes the passenger side). Everything works except for the passenger side window will only go down using the passenger switch. Also the drivers side and rear passenger side locks will not work using either driver or passenger side switches.
This is driving me nuts. Whats even more weird is that before I did anything to this jeep, the passenger window would go up using the drivers side switch, but only if I opened the door.
I know there are loads of post about these problems, but I still can't figure this out. ANY CLUES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

Idunno

Okay. Sounds like you chased down the obvious suspects. What I found when I got my 98 Classic, in August, 2018, was the rear windows were inoperative, the front passenger window would go down only and then go up if I opened the driver's door to a certain position. That told me I was making/breaking continuity on one wire. The right power mirror was also inop. My fix went in the following order -

1. Removed driver's door loom and buzzed out all the wires. I found 4 broken ones and splice-repaired them. That fixed the left rear passenger window and right power mirror.
2. Removed and buzzed the right front door loom. That was a mission because the fuse panel makes it tough to unplug the loom. That loom was in good shape. While I had that door panel off I removed the regulator and plugged it into the driver's loom to ops check it. It worked fine.
3. Opened up the driver's door switch and found blown circuits so I spent the $19.00 to get a new unit from Amazon. That restored the right side windows front and rear.

What I did find coincidental to the blown traces on the driver's door lock/window switch was a windshield seal leak at the left top corner that was dripping down directly onto that switch. Hence the blown traces. I fixed the leak by gently prying up the rubber seal surrounding the outside of the windshield and injecting black silicone sealant under it with a calking gun, then wiping away the squeeze-out.

redbond4

Thanks Idunno. I haven't had the passenger side door loom out, but have peeled back the boot and the wires all seem to look good and still have good flexibility (not hard and brittle) so I'm trying to stay away from that for now. The window motor is good as I can put 12 volts to it and it will go up and down. For some reason I am not getting the power when I use either switch. I have to work the next few days so I not much is going to get done. Does anyone know of a link to a wiring diagram or maybe another way of trouble shooting this. What has me puzzled is that now I have the drivers door loom sorted (at least I thought I did) the window still won't go up, even though it did if I opened the door to a certain position prior. Is it possible that because I did have some chaffed and broken wires in the door jam the passenger window was getting power from another wire maybe?

Idunno

What I did not say in my first response to you is I had the driver's loom out twice, for the very reason you are puzzled, because it turned out I missed a broken wire. I did buzz the loom out the first time and fixed all open circuits, But, even though all it takes is one strand of a wire to display continuity, it won't carry any usable amperage load. That's what I found the 2nd time I pulled and checked the driver's door loom. The 4th wire I repaired was one strand from being completely broken. That wire was for the right power mirror, which did not work after "fixing" the loom the first time out.

I suggest a more thorough inspection of the loom. The 2nd time out of the door I completely stripped off the old cloth electrical tape, physically inspected each of the wires for evidence of localized stress points, corrected what I found, performed preventive maintenance, and then replaced the cloth electrical tape with the identical tape I found in the electrical department of The Home Depot. I had my son help me keep the loom held taut while I wrapped the loom. Not to be remiss twice, I performed the same inspection and re-wrap on the passenger door loom.

Those wires have been exercised for 21 years and all are probably at the fatigue failure point now; especially the front doors.

redbond4

Thanks again. Yes I suspect i'm going to have to take the loom out again and inspect it. The first time I had it out, I unwrapped a good 90% but if my memory serves me correctly I don't think I unwrapped the area were the main junction is (two main switch plugs and I believe the mirror or any other junction for that matter) One thing I did notice was the wires that I had to cut parts out of and re solder, were showing signs of age and did not want to take solder very well when tinning them. I re wrapped the loom with regular insulation tape, but did re use the mesh sleeve that goes around the main part of the loom that goes through the door jam. I will keep this thread posted on what happens the next time I attack this very annoying problem in a few days.

BlueRidgeMark

A visual inspection will not show wires that are broken inside the jacket, which is quite common. Also common is a situation where there are just one or two unbroken strands left, and so the wire will pass a meter test with flying colors, but won't operate the device. Test using a load, like a test light.

redbond4

Thanks for that advice. I not that great with electrical problems, so advice like that helps me tremendously. Since I am a bit thick. If i use a test light, am I right in assuming that you could do that with the loom in the door and with the test light grounded just probe each connector?

BlueRidgeMark

Correct. But, that assumes there is power on the conductor. They are not all hot all the time. You'll need to either consult a wiring diagram to figure out when which wire is hot, OR, use the test light to do a conductivity test by supplying your own power. I wish I could recall where the nearest connector is on that bundle....

Basically, the idea is to disconnect the loom at the nearest connector upstream (closer to the battery, electrically), and supply power to it via a jumper. You can make one with a wire you connect to the battery hot terminal. (You really should use in this jumper, close to the battery. I'd go for a 1 or 2 amp fuse, but certainly not more than 5 amp). While you're on Amazon, grab some . Throw a stout alligator clip on one end of the inline fuse (cut the loop of wire) and attach the other end of the fuse holder to about a 10' piece of 18 gauge wire, and you'll have a jumper that will allow you to do a lot of useful testing now and in the future. You can put another alligator on the other end.

Now, the idea is to disconnect the door loom inside the vehicle, and supply power via your jumper to one wire at a time. Use the test light to test that wire inside the door. You want to see if each wire will carry enough current to light your test light brightly.

OR, you could preemptively cut and replace each wire (one at a time, please!), using quality butt connectors not the El Cheapo vinyl connectors that are sold in cheap kits at the auto store). It would probably be quicker, really, and then you'd know that your wiring is good.

Here are some pointers I posted some time back:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cor...3/#post3100709

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...0/#post3415359

redbond4

Thanks BlueRidgeMark all very useful tips. I am going to revisit this project in the next few days. I really do appreciate everybody's input up to now, as electrical problems are my achilles heel.

redbond4

O.K. so I have sparked out my drivers side loom using the test light and live wire method that BlueRidgeMark suggested and everything checked out good. So this tells me the problem with the passenger window and a couple of the power locks are still not going to work.Before I pull the passenger side loom (which I'm dreading). Should I check the new drivers door switch assembly and if so "how in the world do you do that". There is like 20 odd contacts in there. Could it also be possible that a wire is broken or chaffing between both doors?

redbond4

More frustration going on here. Today I re-installed the drivers side loom and now the passenger side window will not even go down now. Using either switch. Power door locks are still not working at all. I just hear the noise of them locking but they don't do anything. I removed passenger side loom today and again sparked it out using BlueRidgeMarks method and it's in good shape.

Now what do I do?

redbond4

Another update. Replaced the passenger side door loom and now I'm back to square one. Everything works except the passenger side window only goes down with the passenger switch and the drivers side and rear passengers locks wont work.

I'm now wondering if it could be something to do with the wiring behind the drivers side kick plate. Anybody got any tips on trouble shooting that?