Northern Utah BS thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
X2!
Google that **** until your head hurts. radius,3 link, 4 link, triangulated or not... tons of options and ideas, lots of info to dig threw.
find out the thread pitch and size, then order them, tons of people make/sell hiems.
Google that **** until your head hurts. radius,3 link, 4 link, triangulated or not... tons of options and ideas, lots of info to dig threw.
find out the thread pitch and size, then order them, tons of people make/sell hiems.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone have some brake lines laying around? stock or not, doesn't matter just off a XJ. I need to have mine made and they need some to know what to make LOL, I pulled mine off today, had them taken to EVCO after they told me to, then they said the machine was broken and it would be at least a 24hr turn around, so I had to put them back on just to get home... would rather not have to take them off again without my replacements. (can't order a kit as the rear isn't long enough)
I got my front springs on today... awesome!
I got my front springs on today... awesome!
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,179
Likes: 0
From: Lehi, Utah
Year: 90' 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anyone have some brake lines laying around? stock or not, doesn't matter just off a XJ. I need to have mine made and they need some to know what to make LOL, I pulled mine off today, had them taken to EVCO after they told me to, then they said the machine was broken and it would be at least a 24hr turn around, so I had to put them back on just to get home... would rather not have to take them off again without my replacements.
I did some of this tonight.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
took a ride up mary ellen gulch tonight, almost can make it to the cabin but got stopped by snow. found out that the ZJ needs sliders for the upper section. made me go slower through it without them tho
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
From: herriman
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Right on thanks for the offer. I'll see when I can make it out there, or if I can find some closer to me.
well they all work. but find out which works best for you, hence the Google comment
radius arms are easy to make, typically cost less to make, but can unload and add a lot of binding and twist to the front end while flexing.
3 link will take a little more time and $$. as you actually have to worry about geometry. a 3 link reduces binding to about nothing because the top arm can move freely and it will pivot without fighting the other top arm for caster control, but can have brake dive and other road characteristics depending on geometry/arm length ect, the tendency to unload is almost nil, again depending on geometry.
4 link will have a little more binding the a 3 link, costs more, not much room for it in a XJ front setup, but has been done. A true 4 link has more control over the axle movement and will handle normal on road, flex well and be very stable.
well they all work. but find out which works best for you, hence the Google comment
radius arms are easy to make, typically cost less to make, but can unload and add a lot of binding and twist to the front end while flexing.
3 link will take a little more time and $$. as you actually have to worry about geometry. a 3 link reduces binding to about nothing because the top arm can move freely and it will pivot without fighting the other top arm for caster control, but can have brake dive and other road characteristics depending on geometry/arm length ect, the tendency to unload is almost nil, again depending on geometry.
4 link will have a little more binding the a 3 link, costs more, not much room for it in a XJ front setup, but has been done. A true 4 link has more control over the axle movement and will handle normal on road, flex well and be very stable.
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 05-31-2012 at 09:16 AM.