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Northern Utah BS thread

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Old 02-29-2012 | 07:16 PM
  #11701  
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From: vernal, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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looks like im getting a dodge cummins for my work truck, its no chevy or ford but it'll get the job done... too bad i can't work out of an mj never seen this face used before
Old 02-29-2012 | 07:20 PM
  #11702  
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From: vernal, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Mr Talon
So how much total would whoever charge me for 4 long arms for a 6.5lift? or 3 arms, whichever is better.

Is 3 or 4 link better? or is it just preference?
for that lift i'd think a 3 link would be best... just dont go with a rubicon express long arm... it's ****** expensive as **** and the customer service is just as outrageous
Old 02-29-2012 | 07:22 PM
  #11703  
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 351 W
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Yes I do, the joints are ****. Just buy the long arm kit and the cloayton joints and your good to go!

I got my kit for $440? shipped.... couldn't pass it up at this time.
Why not...... is Cloayton like the ebay version of clayton??? Or should they buy Currie Johnny Joint's?
sorry tristen i'm board
Old 02-29-2012 | 07:32 PM
  #11704  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by A.T.R.Offroad
Why not...... is Cloayton like the ebay version of clayton??? Or should they buy Currie Johnny Joint's?
sorry tristen i'm board
LOL, I ment Currie! good catch!
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:04 PM
  #11705  
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From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
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eh

Last edited by customzj73; 02-29-2012 at 08:17 PM.
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:17 PM
  #11706  
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From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
What all are you waiting on from them? have them next day air the parts they do have!!!
Well I already got everything except the rod ends and tube adapters. Which sucks because those are what I really need the most to finalize the front suspension.

Originally Posted by Mr Talon
So how much total would whoever charge me for 4 long arms for a 6.5lift? or 3 arms, whichever is better.

Is 3 or 4 link better? or is it just preference?
Depends on joints like jmaxj said. Id say 115 an arm, plus 60 in plate for brackets, then labor of course.... If my **** was done I could probably help ya out, but I hardly have time to work on mine nowdays.
IMO 3-link is better hands down. You dont get binding like you do in a typical 4-link, and you dont get the unloading characteristics of a radius arm setup like claytons. Not to mention one less arm means less money. Some say 4-link is preferred for DD because you have that extra arm so all the force isnt going through the one upper, but if built properly you have nothing to worry about with a 3-link.

Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
what do you guys think of this hobart 135... $250??? im gonna test it out.

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218...&search=welder




What is corys hobart?
I used a lincoln 135 amp 120v for my 8.8 swap. It seemed great at the time but after gettting my 180 amp 230v lincoln, I realized how much it lacked... But for 250$ you cant really go wrong.

Originally Posted by fathan16
looks like im getting a dodge cummins for my work truck, its no chevy or ford but it'll get the job done... too bad i can't work out of an mj never seen this face used before
Screw chev and ford that cummins is 10x better
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:27 PM
  #11707  
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From: fairview utah
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I agree cummins is best I have a2002 stroker I'm ready to drive of a cliff by the way I'm looking for a first gen dodge if you know of any
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:30 PM
  #11708  
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Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by customzj73



Screw chev and ford that cummins is 10x better
Hell yes it is! I want a 01 dully....
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:31 PM
  #11709  
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
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Engine: 351 W
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Originally Posted by customzj73
eh
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:33 PM
  #11710  
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From: vernal, utah
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Originally Posted by customzj73
Screw chev and ford that cummins is 10x better
just not a big fan of the newer cummins, it's the new body style. but it is chipped already
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:39 PM
  #11711  
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Originally Posted by fathan16
just not a big fan of the newer cummins, it's the new body style. but it is chipped already
It took me a while but that's what I want for my Tow rig/DD lol

Also Who ever thinks locker f+r in the snow is dangerous, or a bad thing... Get over it! ITS AWESOME! Not only did I not struggle or slip on my way home. I pulled out a Ford,Toyota, Honda and made 145$ in tips lol
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:44 PM
  #11712  
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
It took me a while but that's what I want for my Tow rig/DD lol

Also Who ever thinks locker f+r in the snow is dangerous, or a bad thing... Get over it! ITS AWESOME! Not only did I not struggle or slip on my way home. I pulled out a Ford,Toyota, Honda and made 145$ in tips lol
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:45 PM
  #11713  
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From: Lehi, Utah
Year: 90' 93'
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Engine: 4.0
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I putted home for 20 miles on the freeway took an hour at about 20mph.
Also, anyone willing to make me long arms and the cross member for $$$?
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:46 PM
  #11714  
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Originally Posted by Mr Talon
I putted home for 20 miles on the freeway took an hour at about 20mph.
Also, anyone willing to make me long arms and the cross member for $$$?
1800 and lets do it! installed with a warranty
Old 02-29-2012 | 08:48 PM
  #11715  
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From: Lehi, Utah
Year: 90' 93'
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Did you forget the . Somewhere in there? I would rather pay someone to do what they like to do then pay for a named brand at $600+


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