builtnotbought89'

Will your guy clean my tahoe for that price? Lol

Gorillaxj

It is strong, and a good tire. My top 2 would be km2's or duratracks... when i get a tow rig (fingers crossed) I will run Dura-tracks on it (load range E) as they are a good all around tire.

The pit-man arm (TRE side) needs to be at the same height as the Body side track bar mount for correct geometry, so if you have bump steer ect then maybe it could be adjusted, but leave it where it is if there is no issues.

I beleave its a drop down bracket but a double shear mount/bar as well (stronger) so they should still be the same height as his current one. If not the easiest/cheapest way around that is a different height drop pit-man arm...

I have a drop mount I am putting on but only to keep it at the same height with a double shear mount... but only because I am building a new trac bar and want to do it all once and to my **** ***'s liking If your not having a problem now I wouldn't worry about it

Gorillaxj

That is what I said when I got it... Holey **** man, I don't think its ever looked like this LOL, yours isn't ****ty!

No, lol he owed me a favor for fixing his wife's car... the 20$ was a tip for the wow factor

Did you get that locker?

builtnotbought89'

No locker yet... lack of funds

fathan16

i put my poly trans mount in tonight. and noticed right away that there wasnt the weird clanking noise that came after i let off the gas. (sounded like a trans cooler line hitting the oil pan but i dunno) and i can feel the engine rumblin a lot more now. but i noticed another problem/not a problem once i get the dana44 in, is my drive shaft is at it's peak for stretch. should i still drive it? theres a trail run i wanna go on on may 5th, what are the consequences for running with an extended drive shaft? could it rip my hack n tap out?

Gorillaxj

I ran a poly mount for about a month, week one was almost annoying.. week 2 was better... week 3 the vibration kind of went away and it just felt good. the mount broke in a little and softened up. So don't give up on it yet lol

I had to remove it as no one makes a poly mount for my "model and year" I tried both styles, neither was right...

As for the drive-line, I wouldn't run it if it will not had a good amount of spline in it, I have seen cracked t/cases from a drive-line coming out and binding then popping back in lol, But it would most likely just fall off the splines and you would have to fight it back in or take it off the axle and slide it in and reinstall. Not a huge deal, but can cost you money if it hits something while its flopping around lol

but what do you mean by its maxed out? at full drop can you see the splines? if so I would recommend waiting for the D44 or getting it lengthened, or both so its perfect for the D44, you could also get a Longer front shaft to run with your HnT (what brand is the HNT?) there are lots of models with different lengths. maybe you can find one at a JY for the run...

fathan16

at full drop? no while it's just at ride height lol i can see the splines start, just barely

it's the IRO hnt with i think the drive shaft from an auto.

fathan16

i'm gonna take it off tomorrow and measure it. i found a chart for different length drive shafts. now i just gotta get off work early one day so i can get to the stupid jy here that closes at 5 and isn't open on saturday or sundays. just perfect for my schedule..... oh by the way i saw a heard of buffalo out in the wild at work today. i thought that was weird, crazy indian land

Gorillaxj

If you don't end up using the front shaft you have now I'll take it off your hands lol

well with my setup my drive line is about its max length at ride height, as the suspension drops out it moves closer to the t/case in an arch due to the shackles.... when It compresses up, it makes the drive-line closer to T/case height which also makes it slide in and get shorter. If they aren't sticking out It should be ok, but I would flex it in a controlled situation and see if the splines come out before getting it on a trail and finding out mid obstacle lol

Go measure the length from u-joint center on HNT to U-joint center on Yolk of diff, then pic the right length and go pull it! A little list I found...

Front shafts (was said they are compressed lengths and they all have about 3" of slip... but Its the internet!) I would measure yours, bring the list to the JY and measure before you buy!

XJ 89/01 4.0 Automatic 30.660 inches
XJ 89/01 4.0 Manual 29.250 inches

ZJ 1993 4.0 Automatic 30.530
ZJ 93/95 5.2 Automatic 32.870 w/o CV
ZJ 94/95 5.2 A500 30.625 w/o CV
ZJ 94/95 4.0 A500 w/o CV
ZJ 93/96 4.0 Manual
ZJ 93/96 4.0, 5.2 31.875 w/ 231, 242
ZJ 93/95 4.0 Manual 30.000 w/231
ZJ 93/96 5.2 33.000 w/ 231
ZJ 96/98 5.2, 5.9 31.250 w/ 249 & Model 30
ZJ 1996 5.2 Automatic 32.875 w/ 249 & Model 30
ZJ 96/98 4.0 33.000 w/ 242
ZJ 96/97 4.0 Automatic 31.250
ZJ 1996 5.2 Automatic 30.750 w/ 249 & Model 30
ZJ 96/98 4.0 33.500 w/ 249

WJ 99/00 4.0 34.625 52099497AD
WJ 99/00 4.7 33.250 52099498AD
WJ 01/04 4.0 34.625 52105884AA *
WJ 02/04 4.7 32.000 CV 52853500AB *

if you have this XJ 89/01 4.0 Automatic 30.660 inches now, then these would be about right (I would think)

ZJ 93/96 4.0, 5.2 31.875 w/ 231, 24,
OR
WJ 02/04 4.7 32.000

U-joint type obviously... not sure when those had them...

SmokinCamel

Since you guys were boring this morning, got looking at the pics from Sand Hallow. Tell me this last climb on Sandthrax isn't as fun as it looks Who's down?

Gorillaxj

I has been boering in here lol

I sure looks awesome! Kinda hard to tell if the right side is smooth, or sticke out, in or just straight up lol

I would love to see it, not sure If I would do it... un-assisted anyway

Gorillaxj

I also invited RME out for te 29th... hope thats cool, maybe get a good group! and a mixed one too! link

SmokinCamel

Normally I wake up and there is at least a page of chat to look thru. But not this morning.

Mr Talon

I got my adj uca's in mail today.

Desert Rat

I just wanted to let you know Shawn, I was'nt knocking the Duratracss. Just not quite sold on em yet.