Northern Utah BS thread
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Solid Bushings - have a solid rubber bushing that dampens vibration and noise, giving it a softer feel and limiting the virbration from the axle moving and the road while driving. (also limits the amount of twist you can get out of the bushing, limiting flex)
JJ's - have a soft rubber bushing which dampens noise/vibration while alowing the joint to move more then a solid bushing would giving you more flex. Also limits the wear of twisting a bushing due to its more free movment. (ball and socket design)
Hiems - Move a lot, and are solid machined peices of metal that move a lot of degrees for the size of joint giving you mroe flex. They are very strong due to constance metal-metal contact (some have a kevlar liner to limit friction) the down side with these are that they transfer almost all vibrationa nd noise threw the joint and to the body/floor. when these fail they typicaly fully fail and no longer hold them selfs on the ball. (ball and socket design)
They all can last a VERY long time or VERY short depending on where/how they are used. But most of the life span expected is based on the quality of each joint, like most products.
Some will put a bushing on one side and depend ont eh othe side being a JJ/hiem to handle the flex trying to ge tthe best of both worlds. IMO for a oddroad vehicle, I want what will give me the most movement without binding and be the stronger choice. So hiem's are they way I think I'll go. I hate JJ's after my RC experience lol, But I did love the RE ones I used to have.....
Atleast thats how I understand it.
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 04-20-2012 at 11:14 AM.
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Year: 90' 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok good news. What if I use heims, and on both side of it a put in some rubber pieces? You think that would help with noise transfer? Like on motor mounts some have that additional rubber before the bracket that hold them?
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Not needed, Hiems are strong, they just have no give. So vibration and noise travels threw them. Thats not a problem, but some people think its annoying. When I re-due my Long arms I think I am going to go with 7/8ths Hiems on all sides (except axle upper since I have factory style mounts)
Solid Bushings - have a solid rubber bushing that dampens vibration and noise, giving it a softer feel and limiting the virbration from the axle moving and the road while driving. (also limits the amount of twist you can get out of the bushing, limiting flex)
JJ's - have a soft rubber bushing which dampens noise/vibration while alowing the joint to move more then a solid bushing would giving you more flex. Also limits the wear of twisting a bushing due to its more free movment. (ball and socket design)
Hiems - Move a lot, and are solid machined peices of metal that move a lot of degrees for the size of joint giving you mroe flex. They are very strong due to constance metal-metal contact (some have a kevlar liner to limit friction) the down side with these are that they transfer almost all vibrationa nd noise threw the joint and to the body/floor. when these fail they typicaly fully fail and no longer hold them selfs on the ball. (ball and socket design)
They all can last a VERY long time or VERY short depending on where/how they are used. But most of the life span expected is based on the quality of each joint, like most products.
Some will put a bushing on one side and depend ont eh othe side being a JJ/hiem to handle the flex trying to ge tthe best of both worlds. IMO for a oddroad vehicle, I want what will give me the most movement without binding and be the stronger choice. So hiem's are they way I think I'll go. I hate JJ's after my RC experience lol, But I did love the RE ones I used to have.....
Atleast thats how I understand it.
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Mr Talon
Might as well just make them also and go long arm sir.
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Year: whats left of a 91
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Engine: one that makes noise
Originally Posted by xX05Xx
Where did you get that bumper? Or did you custom build it?
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Model: Cherokee
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Alright you giy have a question so obce in a,while when I push in the clutch and try and put in gear it just grinds and wont go in and so I let it out and push it in again it will go into to then while im driving and push in the clutch and come to a stop it kinda still rolls forward still while im in first gear and clutch is in so I have to pull really hard to get it out of gear and let the clutch out and push it in again and put it in gear and its fine for a while the starts all over again last time this happend I replaced my clutch the slave the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and went away now Its been10k miles and now its doing it again any suggestions its still under warranty
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Not needed, Hiems are strong, they just have no give. So vibration and noise travels threw them. Thats not a problem, but some people think its annoying. When I re-due my Long arms I think I am going to go with 7/8ths Hiems on all sides (except axle upper since I have factory style mounts)
Solid Bushings - have a solid rubber bushing that dampens vibration and noise, giving it a softer feel and limiting the virbration from the axle moving and the road while driving. (also limits the amount of twist you can get out of the bushing, limiting flex).
Solid Bushings - have a solid rubber bushing that dampens vibration and noise, giving it a softer feel and limiting the virbration from the axle moving and the road while driving. (also limits the amount of twist you can get out of the bushing, limiting flex).
If you have, say, a radius arm set up, go flex it and check it out. If you stuff the driver tire and droop the passenger, you will find the driver upper arm is pulled toward the back and the passenger is is pushing forward.
I have only heard success stories of all solid joints when there is only one link on the top of the axle. And triangulated 4-links, but that is not practical on XJ front ends
Last edited by FloydXJ; 04-20-2012 at 11:35 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Alright you giy have a question so obce in a,while when I push in the clutch and try and put in gear it just grinds and wont go in and so I let it out and push it in again it will go into to then while im driving and push in the clutch and come to a stop it kinda still rolls forward still while im in first gear and clutch is in so I have to pull really hard to get it out of gear and let the clutch out and push it in again and put it in gear and its fine for a while the starts all over again last time this happend I replaced my clutch the slave the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and went away now Its been10k miles and now its doing it again any suggestions its still under warranty
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My blinker and run light has not worked on the right side when headlights on today the left is the same way now works fine when lights off anyone run into this problem ?