Any Georgians?
#7248
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Any Georgians?
What do you mean by what kind are they? They have to be 10.5" FF or he wouldn't have even noticed it.
I am doing a full shave, my personal copy of the Ballistic shave, gears, disk brakes...I got pics on MGO
#7249
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
ya lol... im sure there are some but i didnt look that hard lol... ive never shopped 14 bolts anyway so i dont know what the FF's were in... i know some had 6 lugs and are hard to find... i think they were semi floats also though...
#7251
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Location: McDonough, GA
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#7252
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Well the 14b bible has a ton of info on all the specs of them. Width depending on vehicle, SRW, DRW, generations of them, drum, disc, open or G80'd. There is a sweet one in Macon on CL. 5.13's, locked, and something else maybe for $850
#7254
MJ>XJ
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Location: Griffin, G.A.
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
got my front 60 welded up and installed the ring... went to get my pinion and fanish... its gone... when i bought the axle i got it cheap cause the guy twisted the pinion off... apparently when i took it out i left it in my green cherokee... which was scrapped... so now i gotta buy all the fancy washers and yoke... so freakin pissed right now ive given up on the gears... moving on to something else till i order and get all these parts in... sucks!
#7256
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Location: McDonough, GA
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd be happy with a D44/F9 and 37's
#7258
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Location: Locust Grove, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1350 is plenty in my opinion, heck I have been running 1310's forever, but I do run decent joints, going 1350 on the 14 bolt because that is what yoke was on it.
Hard to polish a 44 to stand up to 40's and a heavy foot, by the time you get it there you might a well dropped the coin on a 60, you can pick BJ 60's really reasonable like Travis is setting up. The 44/9 is a good set-up on 37's as long as you drop some chromo's and good joints in the front
#7259
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
1350 is plenty in my opinion, heck I have been running 1310's forever, but I do run decent joints, going 1350 on the 14 bolt because that is what yoke was on it.
Hard to polish a 44 to stand up to 40's and a heavy foot, by the time you get it there you might a well dropped the coin on a 60, you can pick BJ 60's really reasonable like Travis is setting up. The 44/9 is a good set-up on 37's as long as you drop some chromo's and good joints in the front
Hard to polish a 44 to stand up to 40's and a heavy foot, by the time you get it there you might a well dropped the coin on a 60, you can pick BJ 60's really reasonable like Travis is setting up. The 44/9 is a good set-up on 37's as long as you drop some chromo's and good joints in the front
ya i went to the JY to grab another yoke since they are all about the same... i have to go to summit to pick up two more washers i cant get anywhere else lol... the slinger or whatever and the baffle... the rest i will get when i pull off a yoke from a JY axle... luckily they are all pretty much the same...
The dana 44 uses the same 297 u joints a newer stronger dana 30 uses and folks break them all the time... unless you plan on dropping $1k on RCV's a dana 44 is worthless... even with CTM or whatever joints and chromos it shouldnt take much more to snap the ears off... you may as well just buy the dana 60 with the $1k... install is going to cost the same...
and i wouldnt build just any ball joint 60 like the 80's and 90'd models... mine are like the size of a coke can and the hub assemblies are huge now too... huge difference... i wish i had a 80's ball joint knuckle to compare lol...