Any Georgians?
#7351
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No swaps are cheap, heck I spent $100 today at Summit just on brake lines and fittings for the 14 bolt,
#7352
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
The thing with the 44 truss was regarding the fitment down the axle tubes, not the housing of the pumpkin or anything like that. I might just use one passenger side mount from my radius arms.
#7353
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Geez. Im trying to figure out what to do for uppers. I'm running radius arms right now, i want to just run those, or just the passenger side if i can. Dont know how i feel about that though.
#7354
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Location: Locust Grove, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Post up on the other site, or send Richard a PM over there, he ran a radius arm 44/9" rear on a XJ for a while, he did a budget boost and a sawzall and beat the snot out of it on 37's. Don't think I would want to risk just running one side.
#7356
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Covington Ha
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I paid $996 for the tires that's shipping and taxes they were $235 a piece. I've priced them at couple different places and they were $275-280 a tire My buddy can buy almost any tire for cheeper than anywhere else
#7357
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Technically, mine are blems. I paid $800 out the door for mine brand new. The sidewall is kind of stiff on them at first, but after i broke them in on the road and drove to Morris Mountain at 15 PSI (40 min drive for me), i aired down to 10 and they started to flex pretty well. They have been great tires for me. Clean out well when they start moving quick and hook up on rocks, especially when wet.
#7358
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Ga
Posts: 247
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#7359
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Covington Ha
Posts: 131
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Technically, mine are blems. I paid $800 out the door for mine brand new. The sidewall is kind of stiff on them at first, but after i broke them in on the road and drove to Morris Mountain at 15 PSI (40 min drive for me), i aired down to 10 and they started to flex pretty well. They have been great tires for me. Clean out well when they start moving quick and hook up on rocks, especially when wet.
I looked for blend but could find any local
#7360
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Covington Ha
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Technically, mine are blems. I paid $800 out the door for mine brand new. The sidewall is kind of stiff on them at first, but after i broke them in on the road and drove to Morris Mountain at 15 PSI (40 min drive for me), i aired down to 10 and they started to flex pretty well. They have been great tires for me. Clean out well when they start moving quick and hook up on rocks, especially when wet.
I looked for blend but could find any local
#7361
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Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Well I meant an XJ kit like I am running. I don't trust one upper mount from a radius arm, I'm going to go to a full 3 link on the passenger side off my crossmember. I'll need a bend in it to clear the starter I think.
I've got a hook up too
#7362
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Location: Locust Grove, Ga
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I take it unibody is already plated (if not, make it a priority) if so if you weld your link mounts on it you should clear your starter, when I bought the XJ it had a d60 3 linked in it that we pulled.
#7363
Junior Member
Why do you want to go to the passenger side? I'd much rather that driver's side where the mount will be stronger.
#7364
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I have mid section stiffners, fronts are next.
N20 is running his 44 with a passenger upper. There isn't a driver side mount in the housing like a 30 obviously, and I don't want to weld to the cast housing. The drivers side has the driveshaft and exhaust right there and a 3rd link would be harder to add without out boarding it to the top of the frame mount like Clayton does, but their kit is super expensive, and I don't know how I could weld it to that mount (how to get the gun up there and see it enough to feel comfortable with it. The frame mounts are burned into the unibody and I'm not cutting it off... I agree, but I don't see a super easy way like the passenger side. I can't find a simple 44 bridge to add a link mount to either than isn't $200 or a full truss.
Look at N20's build and his swap. His angles and all look great, and he had thoroughly beat on it with only the passenger mount.
N20 is running his 44 with a passenger upper. There isn't a driver side mount in the housing like a 30 obviously, and I don't want to weld to the cast housing. The drivers side has the driveshaft and exhaust right there and a 3rd link would be harder to add without out boarding it to the top of the frame mount like Clayton does, but their kit is super expensive, and I don't know how I could weld it to that mount (how to get the gun up there and see it enough to feel comfortable with it. The frame mounts are burned into the unibody and I'm not cutting it off... I agree, but I don't see a super easy way like the passenger side. I can't find a simple 44 bridge to add a link mount to either than isn't $200 or a full truss.
Look at N20's build and his swap. His angles and all look great, and he had thoroughly beat on it with only the passenger mount.