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Old 05-06-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by howellrobby
Thank u for the offer but I'm gonna try to get the closest match I can that being Clearwater, so I don't run into any issues. Its my first head swap and I'm a lil intimidated as is
Just make sure it's the improved TUPY head.

I mean, you're going to pay twice as much for the Clearwater head as you would having a 99 0630 head reworked and magnafluxed.

You must have more money than I do. lol
Old 05-06-2015, 02:36 PM
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Yep. I'd sell mine for $100. Let a machine shop, magnaflux, clean, and reassemble the head and slap it on. Cheap and easy.
Old 05-06-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Yep. I'd sell mine for $100. Let a machine shop, magnaflux, clean, and reassemble the head and slap it on. Cheap and easy.
well hey man like I said I'm new to all this so that does sound like a good idea would the head you have match up with my exhaust manifold and additionally would I have to add a coil pack mount
Old 05-06-2015, 02:48 PM
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Lowrange2 knows more about all that than I would. I haven't bothered reading on all that since I only have a 94. My parts jeep still has everything on the engine other than the exhaust manifold.
Old 05-06-2015, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by howellrobby
well hey man like I said I'm new to all this so that does sound like a good idea would the head you have match up with my exhaust manifold and additionally would I have to add a coil pack mount
Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Lowrange2 knows more about all that than I would. I haven't bothered reading on all that since I only have a 94. My parts jeep still has everything on the engine other than the exhaust manifold.
You'd want to run the 99 intake and exhaust manifold. Everything else would bolt right up.

The only difference you'll run into is the coil pack mounting. That can be done in about 2 minutes with a 1/4" drill big and some metal strap.

If anything it'd be an upgrade.
Old 05-06-2015, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
You'd want to run the 99 intake and exhaust manifold. Everything else would bolt right up.

The only difference you'll run into is the coil pack mounting. That can be done in about 2 minutes with a 1/4" drill big and some metal strap.

If anything it'd be an upgrade.
well I'm definitely going to keep in mind it sounds like a good idea especially the could save me up to 300 bucks
Old 05-06-2015, 04:01 PM
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You'll also want to get the front half of the 99 down pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter. The exhaust is different between the years but is the same from under the oil pan to the back. You can either replace the whole piece or splice the two together behind the oil pan.
Old 05-06-2015, 09:13 PM
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I sold the exhaust manifold last week. I have another one I could weld up for you if you want to run it though.

$100 for the head
$20 for the welded exhaust manifold
$100 for the 99 intake. It's the best year of the intake models that's considered an upgrade from larger ports and what not. Couple good write ups on it.
Old 05-07-2015, 03:12 PM
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He has a 2000. No need for the intake.
Old 05-08-2015, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Big David
He has a 2000. No need for the intake.
His intake isn't going to work with the 99 head. You have to run the 99 intake and exhaust manifold if you're swapping to a 99 style head.
Old 05-08-2015, 02:27 PM
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I'm confused. Are you saying that in 99 they redesign the intake & again in 00? I thought the intake was interchangeable from 99 up & with the GC inline 6.

Or am I getting my Jeep intakes jumbled?
Old 05-08-2015, 02:44 PM
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Yes. The head is different. I installed a 1999 engine into a 2000 XJ last month. Had to use the 1999 intake and exhaust.
Old 05-08-2015, 03:47 PM
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Good to know. Thank you.
Old 05-08-2015, 10:02 PM
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I have a question, if you pull a head on a engine do u have to fallow a certain sequence of unbolting it like when u torqe it on. Otherwise wouldn't u possibly warp it?

Additionally when I do my head swap I need to replace a weeping freeze plug I plan on installing a block heater on the second from front , the leaking one and additionaly replacing any I can access while down there. I can't get to the ones on the back, correct? Any thoughts or input
Old 05-09-2015, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by howellrobby
I have a question, if you pull a head on a engine do u have to fallow a certain sequence of unbolting it like when u torqe it on. Otherwise wouldn't u possibly warp it?

Additionally when I do my head swap I need to replace a weeping freeze plug I plan on installing a block heater on the second from front , the leaking one and additionaly replacing any I can access while down there. I can't get to the ones on the back, correct? Any thoughts or input
Yes. You should remove the head in the reverse order of the torqueing sequence.

With the intake and exhaust manifold off you can access the 5 plugs down the side of the block very easily. Takes about 5 minutes to replace them. There's 2 more. 1 on the back of the head (That can replace while the head is off) and one more inside the bell housing. You'd have to remove the transmission or engine to get to that one. (Everything one of those I've ever seen looked brand new. I wouldn't worry about that one.)



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