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Old 03-19-2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_00xj
Ah, that makes more sense. Was wondering what that remote wire in the pictures was for. lol Also, I want a multi channel so I can do all of my speakers, but all I ever find is 4 channel. I'm assuming that would be 2 subs and 2 mid/tweeters. Can I just branch off the two speakers so I can go to all 4 of mine, and do I wire directly from the amp to the speakers? Is there a specific way to do it? I'm an aircraft electrician so I know how to splice and solder, but speaker wire is something I don't work with very often, especially when an amp is involved. Thanks,
A four channel amp gets hooked up to the four speakers (doors+hatch or soundbar). A 5 channel amp has that, plus one for the subwoofer. I don't think you're using a sub, though. You do wire straight from amp to speakers.
Old 03-19-2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jakbob
since you got 16" rims you should look into the WJ upgrade. just get the knuckles and everything from the junkyard, then you will have dual piston calipers, bigger rotors.
I'm going to be going back to 15"s soon so I think I'll stick with the factory ones for that year.
Old 03-19-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
A four channel amp gets hooked up to the four speakers (doors+hatch or soundbar). A 5 channel amp has that, plus one for the subwoofer. I don't think you're using a sub, though. You do wire straight from amp to speakers.
Well I was wanting a sub as well, so I have to get either a mono amp that ONLY goes to the sub or a 5 channel so I can include all? Bummer dude
Old 03-19-2012, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_00xj
Well I was wanting a sub as well, so I have to get either a mono amp that ONLY goes to the sub or a 5 channel so I can include all? Bummer dude
I just used a Pioneer mono amp cause I didn't use an amp for my speakers. If you add a sub later, you could swap out your 4-channel for a 5-channel. If you get one with the same output to the speakers, you could just swap them in-place and connect the wires to the new one.
Old 03-19-2012, 01:18 PM
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Kuzican... got ur pm's will reply later this pm...
Clown, can u get that Guy a deposit??? I am available after 8am Wed morning, can get to Philly no problem...
Just bear with me, hours kicking my ***** right now...
Old 03-19-2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pulltabmike
Kuzican... got ur pm's will reply later this pm...
Clown, can u get that Guy a deposit??? I am available after 8am Wed morning, can get to Philly no problem...
Just bear with me, hours kicking my ***** right now...
Mike, I appreciate it (I think that may be the thousandth time I've said that in a month). He hasn't replied, but I'm watching my email like a hawk. I wasn't kidding; I would drive out there today if he would answer me. But if it works out that way, I'll be sure to let you know.
Old 03-19-2012, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Mike, I appreciate it (I think that may be the thousandth time I've said that in a month). He hasn't replied, but I'm watching my email like a hawk. I wasn't kidding; I would drive out there today if he would answer me. But if it works out that way, I'll be sure to let you know.
Anytime Tim.... any word on the buyback??? Working on something that may work in ur favor, will know more tonite :>)
Old 03-19-2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by brian0128
I'm going to be going back to 15"s soon so I think I'll stick with the factory ones for that year.
Rockauto is a good place, way back when I started going to the same local parts store, it has changed names a few times but its the same people. I get stuff about 20% off cost but before then I was using rockauto and certifit for all my car part needs
Old 03-19-2012, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I just used a Pioneer mono amp cause I didn't use an amp for my speakers. If you add a sub later, you could swap out your 4-channel for a 5-channel. If you get one with the same output to the speakers, you could just swap them in-place and connect the wires to the new one.
That makes sense. And as far as the stock wiring to the speakers, just cut and cap it and leave it as is correct?

EDIT: cut it at the speaker or at the unit and the speaker?
Old 03-19-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_00xj
Is this a direct bolt on swap onto my existing D30?
yes but you need the everything from the knuckles on.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pulltabmike
Kuzican... got ur pm's will reply later this pm...
Clown, can u get that Guy a deposit??? I am available after 8am Wed morning, can get to Philly no problem...
Just bear with me, hours kicking my ***** right now...
Okay, I'll get it later, going to work soon.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_00xj
To anyone with car audio experience, do you wire the power to the battery or to the alternator? If you wire to the battery wouldn't it drain the battery when the vehicle is off?
You need to wire to the battery. You need a remote wire from your head deck to your amps. That will turn them on and off with the head deck.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pulltabmike
Anytime Tim.... any word on the buyback??? Working on something that may work in ur favor, will know more tonite :>)
I'll keep a listen out. Watch out around midnight, too. Tomorrow's the day to see if our nefarious plan worked.

Originally Posted by mickey_00xj
That makes sense. And as far as the stock wiring to the speakers, just cut and cap it and leave it as is correct?

EDIT: cut it at the speaker or at the unit and the speaker?
I wasn't thinking about your amp cause, like I said, I just used a mono.
I suggest you run all new wire. It'll sound much better, and it'll probably be easier. Run from the head unit outputs (on the back, probably RCA jack) to each input position on the amp (also probably RCA), and then speaker wire from each amp output position to each speaker. Make sure you keep track of the positive and negative wires for each speaker. If they get reversed, your system won't sound so good.
Each device should label each speaker position, for example: LF, RF, LR, RR, Sub
Old 03-19-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_00xj

Ah, that makes more sense. Was wondering what that remote wire in the pictures was for. lol Also, I want a multi channel so I can do all of my speakers, but all I ever find is 4 channel. I'm assuming that would be 2 subs and 2 mid/tweeters. Can I just branch off the two speakers so I can go to all 4 of mine, and do I wire directly from the amp to the speakers? Is there a specific way to do it? I'm an aircraft electrician so I know how to splice and solder, but speaker wire is something I don't work with very often, especially when an amp is involved. Thanks,
Depends on the amp and how stable it is a low ohms. If you wire both front and rear speakers to 2 channels you can't adjust your rear volume independently. You then can bridge most amps to run one or two subs. There is a lot of ways to configure them. I have a 4 ch and 2 ch in each of my vehicles.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'll keep a listen out. Watch out around midnight, too. Tomorrow's the day to see if our nefarious plan worked.

I wasn't thinking about your amp cause, like I said, I just used a mono.
I suggest you run all new wire. It'll sound much better, and it'll probably be easier. Run from the head unit outputs (on the back, probably RCA jack) to each input position on the amp (also probably RCA), and then speaker wire from each amp output position to each speaker. Make sure you keep track of the positive and negative wires for each speaker. If they get reversed, your system won't sound so good.
Each device should label each speaker position, for example: LF, RF, LR, RR, Sub
Cool...leaving for work now, will be online then (if I can get a signal lol)


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