Maryland Cherokee Club
04-10-2012, 09:06 AM
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Year: 1999
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LOL
04-10-2012, 09:06 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
mother of god...
640HP/600lb-ft naturally aspirated
- enough torque to rupture your spleen lol
640HP/600lb-ft naturally aspirated
- enough torque to rupture your spleen lol
04-10-2012, 09:09 AM
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Year: 1999
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04-10-2012, 09:09 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok lots of info flying around so i'll clear things up a bit
- NP 242 - only option is a H&T sye. The Tom Woods kit is a stock output shaft that they put on a lathe to do the h&t. More exact perhaps, or better if you don't feel comfortable with doing it yourself, but exactly the same none-the-less....
- NP 231 - HD Sye (output shaft replacement with bigger, stronger unit), or H&T
you can use the front driveshaft behind the SYE without any issue. XJ shafts work up to around 4-5". A ZJ shaft will get you another couple inches beyond that.
the easiest way if you're doing a H&T is to leave the TC in the truck, make sure the front axle is clear, throw it in 4x4 lo, and reverse, and let it idle - slowly spinning the output shaft of the TC as you drill - they way you drill perfectly straight and in the middle of the shaft.
if you have a pre-96 XJ - you will also need to get a output shaft seal/bearing retainer since there is not an internal one on these models.
- NP 242 - only option is a H&T sye. The Tom Woods kit is a stock output shaft that they put on a lathe to do the h&t. More exact perhaps, or better if you don't feel comfortable with doing it yourself, but exactly the same none-the-less....
- NP 231 - HD Sye (output shaft replacement with bigger, stronger unit), or H&T
you can use the front driveshaft behind the SYE without any issue. XJ shafts work up to around 4-5". A ZJ shaft will get you another couple inches beyond that.
the easiest way if you're doing a H&T is to leave the TC in the truck, make sure the front axle is clear, throw it in 4x4 lo, and reverse, and let it idle - slowly spinning the output shaft of the TC as you drill - they way you drill perfectly straight and in the middle of the shaft.
if you have a pre-96 XJ - you will also need to get a output shaft seal/bearing retainer since there is not an internal one on these models.
I'm gonna disagree with you on one point on the 242 (and I am going by the pics on the TW wesite, and this is a friendly disagreement open for discussion,
)...Looking at TW tailshaft versus stock, shortening the actual tailshaft (stock or not) would take the stress off of the tailshaft seals and bearings...
BUT, in real world applications, I totally agree that Hack & Tap is the way to go. I mean, how many of us are going to go out every weekend and beat our rigs to death...
04-10-2012, 09:10 AM
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04-10-2012, 09:15 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Dukie,
I'm gonna disagree with you on one point on the 242 (and I am going by the pics on the TW wesite, and this is a friendly disagreement open for discussion,)...
Looking at TW tailshaft versus stock, shortening the actual tailshaft (stock or not) would take the stress off of the tailshaft seals and bearings...
BUT, in real world applications, I totally agree that Hack & Tap is the way to go. I mean, how many of us are going to go out every weekend and beat our rigs to death...
I'm gonna disagree with you on one point on the 242 (and I am going by the pics on the TW wesite, and this is a friendly disagreement open for discussion,
)...Looking at TW tailshaft versus stock, shortening the actual tailshaft (stock or not) would take the stress off of the tailshaft seals and bearings...
BUT, in real world applications, I totally agree that Hack & Tap is the way to go. I mean, how many of us are going to go out every weekend and beat our rigs to death...
04-10-2012, 09:23 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
"NP 242 - only option is a H&T sye. The Tom Woods kit is a stock output shaft that they put on a lathe to do the h&t. More exact perhaps, or better if you don't feel comfortable with doing it yourself, but exactly the same none-the-less...."
TW shaft is shorter...... splines are moved back closer to tailshaft seal eliminating a lot of stress on the bearings/seal... another option DEPENDING on what kinda wheeling is going to be done...
"the easiest way if you're doing a H&T is to leave the TC in the truck, make sure the front axle is clear, throw it in 4x4 lo, and reverse, and let it idle - slowly spinning the output shaft of the TC as you drill - they way you drill perfectly straight and in the middle of the shaft."
??? Think you meant to cut shaft
TW shaft is shorter...... splines are moved back closer to tailshaft seal eliminating a lot of stress on the bearings/seal... another option DEPENDING on what kinda wheeling is going to be done...
"the easiest way if you're doing a H&T is to leave the TC in the truck, make sure the front axle is clear, throw it in 4x4 lo, and reverse, and let it idle - slowly spinning the output shaft of the TC as you drill - they way you drill perfectly straight and in the middle of the shaft."
??? Think you meant to cut shaft
04-10-2012, 09:26 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
ok ok...so i forgot to mention the HACK part of the hack and tap lol.
let it be known from this point forward - you CUT then DRILL then TAP your output shaft to do a hack and tap
lol
let it be known from this point forward - you CUT then DRILL then TAP your output shaft to do a hack and tap
lol
04-10-2012, 09:26 AM
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04-10-2012, 09:27 AM
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04-10-2012, 09:28 AM
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I could just imagine some people on this forum trying to drill while tailshaft is spinning
04-10-2012, 09:29 AM
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04-10-2012, 09:33 AM
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