Maryland Cherokee Club
#2566
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Pudgy Fingers
Ok here it is. Unfortunately my wife is a photographer and NOT a videographer.
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJTUz8Xa0V8
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJTUz8Xa0V8
#2567
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Market
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by pulltabmike
The screams tell all lol!!! Way to drive through it...
#2568
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Posts: 764
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
well, the dukie diagnosis of Anya is actually very good. Except for the massive amount of sludge in the oil holes, seen below, nothing else seems to be wrong. no damage to the cylinders or walls, and get this...the head gasket wasnt actually blown!!!! So just a really good cleaning of the head and replacing the pushrods/rockers, and an oil and coolant flush, Anya should be good to go, and up and running by december 2nd at the latest.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
#2569
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Frederick, MD/ Trion, Ga
Posts: 241
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That was fun. We got him down to that gas station and his friend brought him his truck and trailer and got it loaded up.
Pudgy that was pretty funny after it was over with, she was not happy... but you did awesome without being locked...
But I am home, had a blast and glad to put faces with names.
Pudgy that was pretty funny after it was over with, she was not happy... but you did awesome without being locked...
But I am home, had a blast and glad to put faces with names.
#2572
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 6,880
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
well, the dukie diagnosis of Anya is actually very good. Except for the massive amount of sludge in the oil holes, seen below, nothing else seems to be wrong. no damage to the cylinders or walls, and get this...the head gasket wasnt actually blown!!!! So just a really good cleaning of the head and replacing the pushrods/rockers, and an oil and coolant flush, Anya should be good to go, and up and running by december 2nd at the latest.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
#2574
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
well, the dukie diagnosis of Anya is actually very good. Except for the massive amount of sludge in the oil holes, seen below, nothing else seems to be wrong. no damage to the cylinders or walls, and get this...the head gasket wasnt actually blown!!!! So just a really good cleaning of the head and replacing the pushrods/rockers, and an oil and coolant flush, Anya should be good to go, and up and running by december 2nd at the latest.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
so glad it wasnt horrible under the head...i was totally expecting to find a travesty under there. but luck was on my side.
the engine block was just as dirty as the head is, dukie took the time to clean it for me.
so anywho, onto the pix.
The photos don't do justice to how clogged up that block's passages were...just tiny holes where the rods were. And a lifter was actually out of the hole, just laying there inside the passage on it's side. Must have been the one that snapped the rod. Hate to see what the oil pan and pump looks like...i strongly suggest you try and clean/replace that also before firing it up again. That engine was definitely starved of oil / maintained very poorly before you got it.
Cylinder walls looked great, no valves were stuck, and the piston dishes are remarkably clean. No signs of a cracked block or head.
#2576
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 6,880
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
#2577
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Posts: 764
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
thanks guys. i so cant wait to finally get her back up and running...im going to record that glorious moment when she starts for the first time for everybody to see, and hear. and then take her for a nice long wash, and then straight to the emissions test place, then to "The V" in Glen Burnie, and have some fun at long last.
god how i miss driving, lol.
god how i miss driving, lol.
#2578
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
yea...it sucks lol....
Anyways, plan a half a day at least to do it. You'll need a 36mm axle nut socket, a breaker bar, 13mm 12 point socket, and access to a vice or press (alternatively I used a BFH to hit the knuckle of the axle shaft with the cap on the anvil - seemed to work better). An impact wrench helps with the axle nut.
Basically, put the new ujoint in the freezer. Put the tcase in 4x4 LO. Jack up the one side and remove the wheel. Keep the opposite wheel on the ground to prevent stress on the transfer case. Remove the cotter pin, hum nut retainer, and get the hub nut off. Remove the brake calipers and hang them out of the way with some wire/string. Unbolt the 12 point bolts on the back of the hub. Now the fun part for me was getting the hub off the knuckle. I had to use a cold chisel around the edge of the hub for about 5 minutes before it finally let go (YMMV). After that's off just pull the axle shaft out, press out the old joint, press the new one in, and reassemble everything.
Anyways, plan a half a day at least to do it. You'll need a 36mm axle nut socket, a breaker bar, 13mm 12 point socket, and access to a vice or press (alternatively I used a BFH to hit the knuckle of the axle shaft with the cap on the anvil - seemed to work better). An impact wrench helps with the axle nut.
Basically, put the new ujoint in the freezer. Put the tcase in 4x4 LO. Jack up the one side and remove the wheel. Keep the opposite wheel on the ground to prevent stress on the transfer case. Remove the cotter pin, hum nut retainer, and get the hub nut off. Remove the brake calipers and hang them out of the way with some wire/string. Unbolt the 12 point bolts on the back of the hub. Now the fun part for me was getting the hub off the knuckle. I had to use a cold chisel around the edge of the hub for about 5 minutes before it finally let go (YMMV). After that's off just pull the axle shaft out, press out the old joint, press the new one in, and reassemble everything.