Maryland Cherokee Club
#3076
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tampa, FL & DC/MD infrequently
Posts: 758
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Well...all the talk about inspection really has me thinking I'm certainly going to do up a good section on my Jeep page for this stuff...with diagrams.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
#3080
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Unfortunatly, no. Brackets are going to have to be cut off, rewelded, and you are going to need an adapter plate to get the driveshaft to mount up.
Just to give you an idea, it is going to cost me +/- $500 just for the parts to get it to mount up to my ZJ.
Make sure you go with an 8.8 w/disks. In my case, I will be able to use all of my old brake hardware on the 8.8. If you have rear drums on your Cherokee, it will requre some more parts in order to make the disks work, but well worth it.
If you plan on installing a locker in the future, go with the open carrier from the JY. If you go with the LSD and go locker in the future, you will have to go with a new carrier.
Search Ford 8.8 on this forum or Google, lots of good info and writeups. I will be doing a step by step with measurements, but again it will be for a zj.
Just to give you an idea, it is going to cost me +/- $500 just for the parts to get it to mount up to my ZJ.
Make sure you go with an 8.8 w/disks. In my case, I will be able to use all of my old brake hardware on the 8.8. If you have rear drums on your Cherokee, it will requre some more parts in order to make the disks work, but well worth it.
If you plan on installing a locker in the future, go with the open carrier from the JY. If you go with the LSD and go locker in the future, you will have to go with a new carrier.
Search Ford 8.8 on this forum or Google, lots of good info and writeups. I will be doing a step by step with measurements, but again it will be for a zj.
#3081
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well...all the talk about inspection really has me thinking I'm certainly going to do up a good section on my Jeep page for this stuff...with diagrams.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
As far as your motor, You can talk to 10 people on the forums, and get 10 different answers. If you were up my way, I'd help you put a new (or used) one in. I'm not paying 3+K to have ANY shop do ANY kind of work on my vehicles but that is just me....
#3082
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Partlow, va
Posts: 3,380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
Ok thanks man. If I order a lift from rc and tell them I have the 8.8 they should have a driveshaft for it right
#3083
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The u-joints on the driveshaft will not mount up to the 8.8 flange. You will need an adapter on the 8.8 to get it to mount up. They also sell a crossover u-jount that will work with the driveshaft and 8.8, but I would not recommend it....
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...gory_Code=F88S
#3086
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Well...all the talk about inspection really has me thinking I'm certainly going to do up a good section on my Jeep page for this stuff...with diagrams.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
I got my inspection failed, but I know the items that needed to be done, but I wanted a baseline to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I'll likely have to tow my truck up since my temps also run out. I'm not taking a chance driving it. It's a real short haul...so less the $50 which is tons cheaper than getting caught, paying a ticket, impound, etc. fees.
I'm really needing to finally make a decision on what to do about this motor situation. I need something new, but not sure what shops, places are dependable. I thought the forum would have a more conclusive concensus, but it's rather all over the place.
As far as inspection goes, I have the actual sheet the tech used to do mine somewhere around here. Lemme see if I can find it and scan it for you and anyone else who's interested.
#3087
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
i missed a step and fell hard onto my hand...big ole crack right through the middle of the bone. at least i can still turn a wrench, so work on anya wont be delayed. but man, being right handed and having to learn to do everything with my left sucks ***.
#3088
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
anyone want to buy a set of stainless steel brake lines? I'm gonna offer them to local guys first before putting them in the for sale section and on craigslist.
Details:
Brand new, never used or installed
Rough Country Extended Brake Lines - 4000psi, DOT approved, 26" long fitting to fitting
Stainless Steel brake lines are a Teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar for strength, then a protective coating, and then the stainless steel, then a plastic outer coating.
Front Lines (#87502) and Rear (#89703) for XJ, TJ, and YJ
***HARDWARE (clips/washers/etc) NOT INCLUDED*** - Just the lines
$75 for all 3 obo.
Here they are:
Details:
Brand new, never used or installed
Rough Country Extended Brake Lines - 4000psi, DOT approved, 26" long fitting to fitting
Stainless Steel brake lines are a Teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar for strength, then a protective coating, and then the stainless steel, then a plastic outer coating.
Front Lines (#87502) and Rear (#89703) for XJ, TJ, and YJ
***HARDWARE (clips/washers/etc) NOT INCLUDED*** - Just the lines
$75 for all 3 obo.
Here they are:
#3089
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
anyone want to buy a set of stainless steel brake lines? I'm gonna offer them to local guys first before putting them in the for sale section and on craigslist.
Details:
Brand new, never used or installed
Rough Country Extended Brake Lines - 4000psi, DOT approved, 26" long fitting to fitting
Stainless Steel brake lines are a Teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar for strength, then a protective coating, and then the stainless steel, then a plastic outer coating.
Front Lines (#87502) and Rear (#89703) for XJ, TJ, and YJ
***HARDWARE (clips/washers/etc) NOT INCLUDED*** - Just the lines
$75 for all 3 obo.
Here they are:
Details:
Brand new, never used or installed
Rough Country Extended Brake Lines - 4000psi, DOT approved, 26" long fitting to fitting
Stainless Steel brake lines are a Teflon tube wrapped in Kevlar for strength, then a protective coating, and then the stainless steel, then a plastic outer coating.
Front Lines (#87502) and Rear (#89703) for XJ, TJ, and YJ
***HARDWARE (clips/washers/etc) NOT INCLUDED*** - Just the lines
$75 for all 3 obo.
Here they are:
#3090
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Linthicum, Md
Posts: 903
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
man those would look nice and help for my future installs..
but i am going to have to pass for at least 1 more paycheck before i can start blowing my money on my Jeep again..
but i am going to have to pass for at least 1 more paycheck before i can start blowing my money on my Jeep again..