Maryland Cherokee Club
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Location: Laurel, MD
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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anyone available to help me move on Friday? I was gonna do it on Sat, but I have access to a couple of trucks that would keep me from renting one on Sat. Not a whole lot, just bulky stuff that can't be loaded into the back of an SUV. Still food and still drinkies. Not too far, from Jessup to Laurel.
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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anyone available to help me move on Friday? I was gonna do it on Sat, but I have access to a couple of trucks that would keep me from renting one on Sat. Not a whole lot, just bulky stuff that can't be loaded into the back of an SUV. Still food and still drinkies. Not too far, from Jessup to Laurel.
And Mark, I should be able to help you, as well. I can't stay late, but I can at least transport whatever parts you need.
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Year: 1998
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thanks Tim, I think we're gonna start around 8 or a little after. Coffee pot will be on.
Steve, ha, maybe, but I was told we have plans on Sun. for somethin.
Steve, ha, maybe, but I was told we have plans on Sun. for somethin.
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Location: Glen Burnie, MD
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Year: 1999
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Well in theory a system open to the air will begin to accumulate crap internally, corrosion mainly. It is best to replace all parts in that situation. That said, I have fixed many systems where you simply replace the bad component and do a suck and recharge. In a compressor burnout you replace everything dou to not being able to flush the condenser properly. Should change the orifice screen also.
Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.
Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.
Lots of ways to look at it.
How much you wanna spend?
Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.
Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.
Lots of ways to look at it.
How much you wanna spend?
Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
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Year: 1999
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I can turn on the ac and the clutch locks and the compressor is spinning, I get cold air for about 10 min and then it starts getting warm, check the compressor and the clutch has disengaged. After maybe 15 minutes or so it locks back up and I get cold air again for another 10 and then the same thing.
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i'd be interested in pulling a vacuum on my system also to see how many holes I have
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Year: 1999
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Location: Berea, OH
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Year: 1998
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Guys...I am actively seeking the possibility of a new rig.
I prefer 91-96...as rust free as possible, 2 door.
I have $1000 to spend.
If anyone has any leads.....
I prefer 91-96...as rust free as possible, 2 door.
I have $1000 to spend.
If anyone has any leads.....
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/3026976822.html
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
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Well in theory a system open to the air will begin to accumulate crap internally, corrosion mainly. It is best to replace all parts in that situation. That said, I have fixed many systems where you simply replace the bad component and do a suck and recharge. In a compressor burnout you replace everything dou to not being able to flush the condenser properly. Should change the orifice screen also.
Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.
Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.
Lots of ways to look at it.
How much you wanna spend?
Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.
Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.
Lots of ways to look at it.
How much you wanna spend?
Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
87 r12 system, missing condenser and the lines to and from the condenser. everything else is there. what would you replace? and where would i get the system put at vac?
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If you can scrape up a little more. It's been listed for a couple weeks.
http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/3026976822.html
http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/3026976822.html
Thanks...have a call into him. That would be a score....my favorite year.
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Year: 1999
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Adding. Get a receiver/ drier too. We will have to flush it a little but I will supply that and you pay me for the materials.
Last edited by SDC; 06-11-2012 at 10:41 AM.