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Old 06-11-2012, 09:31 AM
  #31051  
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anyone available to help me move on Friday? I was gonna do it on Sat, but I have access to a couple of trucks that would keep me from renting one on Sat. Not a whole lot, just bulky stuff that can't be loaded into the back of an SUV. Still food and still drinkies. Not too far, from Jessup to Laurel.
Old 06-11-2012, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by LittleBuddy
anyone available to help me move on Friday? I was gonna do it on Sat, but I have access to a couple of trucks that would keep me from renting one on Sat. Not a whole lot, just bulky stuff that can't be loaded into the back of an SUV. Still food and still drinkies. Not too far, from Jessup to Laurel.
I should be able to help if it's early enough.

And Mark, I should be able to help you, as well. I can't stay late, but I can at least transport whatever parts you need.
Old 06-11-2012, 09:44 AM
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crap Ben, i gotta werk friday-n-saturday, can i come over sunday for leftovers?



Old 06-11-2012, 09:58 AM
  #31054  
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thanks Tim, I think we're gonna start around 8 or a little after. Coffee pot will be on.

Steve, ha, maybe, but I was told we have plans on Sun. for somethin.
Old 06-11-2012, 10:00 AM
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Well in theory a system open to the air will begin to accumulate crap internally, corrosion mainly. It is best to replace all parts in that situation. That said, I have fixed many systems where you simply replace the bad component and do a suck and recharge. In a compressor burnout you replace everything dou to not being able to flush the condenser properly. Should change the orifice screen also.

Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.

Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.

Lots of ways to look at it.

How much you wanna spend?

Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
Old 06-11-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Green2000
I can turn on the ac and the clutch locks and the compressor is spinning, I get cold air for about 10 min and then it starts getting warm, check the compressor and the clutch has disengaged. After maybe 15 minutes or so it locks back up and I get cold air again for another 10 and then the same thing.
Sounds like a pressure switch is shutting it off. Don't know which without gauges on it. When the compressor is shut off the pressures equalize and the switch resets. Endless cycle till its fixed.
Old 06-11-2012, 10:06 AM
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i'd be interested in pulling a vacuum on my system also to see how many holes I have
Old 06-11-2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
i'd be interested in pulling a vacuum on my system also to see how many holes I have
Better to pressurize it with nitrogen and soap er up. Foam party!
Old 06-11-2012, 10:10 AM
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How do I post pics from I phone
Old 06-11-2012, 10:12 AM
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Guys...I am actively seeking the possibility of a new rig.

I prefer 91-96...as rust free as possible, 2 door.

I have $1000 to spend.

If anyone has any leads.....
Old 06-11-2012, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmy21669
Guys...I am actively seeking the possibility of a new rig.

I prefer 91-96...as rust free as possible, 2 door.

I have $1000 to spend.

If anyone has any leads.....
If you can scrape up a little more. It's been listed for a couple weeks.
http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/3026976822.html
Old 06-11-2012, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SDC
Well in theory a system open to the air will begin to accumulate crap internally, corrosion mainly. It is best to replace all parts in that situation. That said, I have fixed many systems where you simply replace the bad component and do a suck and recharge. In a compressor burnout you replace everything dou to not being able to flush the condenser properly. Should change the orifice screen also.

Biggest concern is how much oil is left in the compressor. Not enough and the compressor seizes. To much and the system will fail on high pressure, blow the clutch from heavy starting load. Sometimes it's best to start with a new compressor fOr this reason.

Yes drier/ accumulator should be changed. I did not change mine and it was open for 6 months or more.

Lots of ways to look at it.

How much you wanna spend?

Don't buy any R134 with all the crap in it. Leak sealer, due, moisture remover, oil, synthetic. Just plain R-134 $9.99 a can at Walmart.
so how would you look at this...

87 r12 system, missing condenser and the lines to and from the condenser. everything else is there. what would you replace? and where would i get the system put at vac?
Old 06-11-2012, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
If you can scrape up a little more. It's been listed for a couple weeks.
http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/3026976822.html


Thanks...have a call into him. That would be a score....my favorite year.
Old 06-11-2012, 10:36 AM
  #31064  
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Originally Posted by jakbob
so how would you look at this...

87 r12 system, missing condenser and the lines to and from the condenser. everything else is there. what would you replace? and where would i get the system put at vac?
That is a tough one. R-12 could run 30-50 bucks per 12oz can. Replace it all and go r-134 is what I would advise my customers. But most of my customers have the money! Get the condenser and hoses installed. Find 2 or 3 cans ofR12 and I'll help with the rest.

Adding. Get a receiver/ drier too. We will have to flush it a little but I will supply that and you pay me for the materials.

Last edited by SDC; 06-11-2012 at 10:41 AM.
Old 06-11-2012, 10:40 AM
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How do I get this stud out?


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