Maryland Cherokee Club
06-19-2012, 08:07 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
you'll need to flex it out with no shocks and see - ideally you want to have the compressed length to be a inch or so more than what you rig can do (limited by bumpstops), and the extended length to be an inch is so more than what you can do before hitting the control arms or binding the driveshaft. On a long arm (radius arm) rig this probably means using limiting straps.
Basically you just don'e want the shocks to be the limiting element - it tends to go very badly for the shocks
. There is t=plenty you can do to adjust the suspension to the shocks so just get close.
Basically you just don'e want the shocks to be the limiting element - it tends to go very badly for the shocks
. There is t=plenty you can do to adjust the suspension to the shocks so just get close.
06-19-2012, 08:11 AM
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Year: 1998
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You need to measure the jeep with no shocks on it from mounting point to mounting point with the Jeep flexed at max and min. This will give you full extended and collapsed lengths of the shocks. Add 10% and that will give you the measurements.
You also need fully extended (shock removed and spring about to unseat) measurement, ride height, and the distance between the bump stop and the axle to get the right shock.
After that, you shop shock sites, or call a shock shop, and give them the specs and extended/collapsed lengths. They will give you a shock for your specific application.
Hope that helps.
A little more step by step detail:
1-Max out the flex on the axle. Stretch one side out, stuff the other ....both as much as possible.
This can be done several ways. A forklift, ditch, flex ramp (duh!) or a small, loud Japanese car, lowered w/ a nose kit on it. I wouldn't try a jack...they could move on you.
2-Measure between the shock mounts. The actual mounting locations. Either center of stud or bolt hole. This is how the shock companies do it. Measure both sides....the extension and compression will give the needed shock travel.
3- Add at last a half and inch to the extension....and add half an inch from compression.
This keeps the shock form acting as the bumpstop.
4- Go to your favorite parts store. Ask the guy at the counter for the shock book. They ALL have one....or more. If they won't let you....find another store.
5- Look up your stock application and take note of the mounting points (shock ends).
6- Match up the shock ends w/ the travel you need. You may have to give a little here and there.
7- Repeat steps 1-6 for the other axle if needed.
8-You're done!....GO WHEEL!
This works for any rig......even circle track racecars.
This should work for and grade of shock.....Ranchos to Red Ryders.
06-19-2012, 08:32 AM
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.?
Originally Posted by jimmy21669
You need to measure the jeep with no shocks on it from mounting point to mounting point with the Jeep flexed at max and min. This will give you full extended and collapsed lengths of the shocks. Add 10% and that will give you the measurements.
You also need fully extended (shock removed and spring about to unseat) measurement, ride height, and the distance between the bump stop and the axle to get the right shock.
After that, you shop shock sites, or call a shock shop, and give them the specs and extended/collapsed lengths. They will give you a shock for your specific application.
Hope that helps.
A little more step by step detail:
1-Max out the flex on the axle. Stretch one side out, stuff the other ....both as much as possible.
This can be done several ways. A forklift, ditch, flex ramp (duh!) or a small, loud Japanese car, lowered w/ a nose kit on it. I wouldn't try a jack...they could move on you.
2-Measure between the shock mounts. The actual mounting locations. Either center of stud or bolt hole. This is how the shock companies do it. Measure both sides....the extension and compression will give the needed shock travel.
3- Add at last a half and inch to the extension....and add half an inch from compression.
This keeps the shock form acting as the bumpstop.
4- Go to your favorite parts store. Ask the guy at the counter for the shock book. They ALL have one....or more. If they won't let you....find another store.
5- Look up your stock application and take note of the mounting points (shock ends).
6- Match up the shock ends w/ the travel you need. You may have to give a little here and there.
7- Repeat steps 1-6 for the other axle if needed.
8-You're done!....GO WHEEL!
This works for any rig......even circle track racecars.
This should work for and grade of shock.....Ranchos to Red Ryders.
06-19-2012, 09:06 AM
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
no no write up. How high are you thinking? I made mine different than most in hopes it would only give me 3" of lift - but it ended up giving me much more than that. Your only option for less lift is an all XJ bastard pack - (main, cut main, 2nd, cut 2nd, 3rd, 4th) - should yield about 2" of lift.
If you want less than like 4" out of the springs I suggest you just buy new packs - they'll perform better and you'll know what you're getting. With mine there was always the question of exactly how much lift they would net me - and as you see I was a bit off (not that i'm upset with that).
If you want less than like 4" out of the springs I suggest you just buy new packs - they'll perform better and you'll know what you're getting. With mine there was always the question of exactly how much lift they would net me - and as you see I was a bit off (not that i'm upset with that).
06-19-2012, 09:12 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
approximately yes. Gonna take measurements tonight now that it's pretty well broken in