Maryland Cherokee Club
#3931
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
From: Bowie, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Hey fellas,
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
#3932
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Hey fellas,
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
#3934
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
From: Near the airport by the water
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey fellas,
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
Last edited by brian0128; 12-20-2011 at 10:53 AM.
#3936
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
From: Bowie, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I'd love to borrow a torque wrench, thanks fellas. I'm planning on doing this tomorrow evening in my garage, sometime after 5:30pm. Any chance you guys would like some free beer as you walk me through it the first time? The Mrs would be happy to cook you up something delicious as well. It would be cool to be shown any small tips / tricks to doing this. I may need ramps now that I think of it. My jack is a low-profile jack to get under my SRT. The Axles need to be suspended in air in order to get to all the bolts on the diff covers, correct?
#3937
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1
From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
I'd love to borrow a torque wrench, thanks fellas. I'm planning on doing this tomorrow evening in my garage, sometime after 5:30pm. Any chance you guys would like some free beer as you walk me through it the first time? The Mrs would be happy to cook you up something delicious as well. It would be cool to be shown any small tips / tricks to doing this. I may need ramps now that I think of it. My jack is a low-profile jack to get under my SRT. The Axles need to be suspended in air in order to get to all the bolts on the diff covers, correct?
leave the top bolt in (but loosen it up, that way, when it drains, the cover wont fall into the drip pan, and when it is done, then take the top bolt out)
make sure you use your RTV (if you arent using a gasket) on the inside of the bolts, as in when your applying it, think of it as a wall. if you put a wall in front of the hole, your good, but if you put the wall behind the hole, oil will seep out from the bolts.
let the RTV cure for about 15 - 20 minutes (it expands). if you try to fill it up right after, the diff fluid will leak right out.
i cant think of anything else... but if i think of something new, ill let you know.
what fluid you plan on using?
#3938
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
From: Bowie, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
no... i did mine without a jack or ramps. a few tips
leave the top bolt in (but loosen it up, that way, when it drains, the cover wont fall into the drip pan, and when it is done, then take the top bolt out)
make sure you use your RTV (if you arent using a gasket) on the inside of the bolts, as in when your applying it, think of it as a wall. if you put a wall in front of the hole, your good, but if you put the wall behind the hole, oil will seep out from the bolts.
let the RTV cure for about 15 - 20 minutes (it expands). if you try to fill it up right after, the diff fluid will leak right out.
i cant think of anything else... but if i think of something new, ill let you know.
what fluid you plan on using?
leave the top bolt in (but loosen it up, that way, when it drains, the cover wont fall into the drip pan, and when it is done, then take the top bolt out)
make sure you use your RTV (if you arent using a gasket) on the inside of the bolts, as in when your applying it, think of it as a wall. if you put a wall in front of the hole, your good, but if you put the wall behind the hole, oil will seep out from the bolts.
let the RTV cure for about 15 - 20 minutes (it expands). if you try to fill it up right after, the diff fluid will leak right out.
i cant think of anything else... but if i think of something new, ill let you know.
what fluid you plan on using?
#3939
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
From: Near the airport by the water
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I could help you tonight but tomorrow I've got dinner plans. Either way I'll be back in crofton by 630 tonight if you want to borrow tools and ramps.
#3940
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1
From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Thanks for the tips. I am using Valvoline High-Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil from Advance.
#3941
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,336
Likes: 381
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
welp, valve cover gasket changed with only minor casualties. Then I found out it wasn't the drip that had been making spots all over works parking lot. Stupid heater control valve was leaking and making the wet spots.
It needed changed anyway.
It needed changed anyway.
#3942
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
From: Bowie, MD
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
@Jakbob - Got it, I will make sure not to put the RTV on the outside of the bolts. Makes sense.
#3943
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1
From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
@Passt - I just didn't think I explained it enough :/