North Atlantic Maine, New Hampshire, New York, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New Jersey, Delaware, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Washington DC

Maryland Cherokee Club

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-20-2011, 08:09 AM
  #3931  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Hey fellas,

I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:11 AM
  #3932  
Moderator of Jeeps
 
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by Passt
Hey fellas,

I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
I picked up a manual (not digital) torque wrench at Sears for around $30. It's worked well for me for 6 months, and I can replace it if it breaks.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:36 AM
  #3933  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Sweet, thanks for the tip. I'd go with the manual as well.
Old 12-20-2011, 09:34 AM
  #3934  
CF Veteran
 
brian0128's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Near the airport by the water
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Passt
Hey fellas,

I'm doing the front and rear differential fluid tomorrow, and I have two questions. I do not have a gasket for the front. Is it true that some RTV sealant is all I need for a good seal, as long as I clean the surfaces and torque properly? That leads me into my second question. What are the torque specs for the front and rear bolts? Also, if anyone could provide a link to a torque wrench that is good for this job, that'd be awesome. I need to pick one up.
Black Rtv is rated for oil and is fine. I've got a torque wrench and a Haynes service manual you can borrow. I don't live too far from you. Do you need ramps? Are you doing it in your garage?

Last edited by brian0128; 12-20-2011 at 09:53 AM.
Old 12-20-2011, 10:09 AM
  #3935  
CF Veteran
 
zwhiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Alaska
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

I also have a torque wrench if you need to borrow one...I'm in bowie
Old 12-20-2011, 11:38 AM
  #3936  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

I'd love to borrow a torque wrench, thanks fellas. I'm planning on doing this tomorrow evening in my garage, sometime after 5:30pm. Any chance you guys would like some free beer as you walk me through it the first time? The Mrs would be happy to cook you up something delicious as well. It would be cool to be shown any small tips / tricks to doing this. I may need ramps now that I think of it. My jack is a low-profile jack to get under my SRT. The Axles need to be suspended in air in order to get to all the bolts on the diff covers, correct?
Old 12-20-2011, 11:49 AM
  #3937  
CF Veteran
 
jakbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Passt
I'd love to borrow a torque wrench, thanks fellas. I'm planning on doing this tomorrow evening in my garage, sometime after 5:30pm. Any chance you guys would like some free beer as you walk me through it the first time? The Mrs would be happy to cook you up something delicious as well. It would be cool to be shown any small tips / tricks to doing this. I may need ramps now that I think of it. My jack is a low-profile jack to get under my SRT. The Axles need to be suspended in air in order to get to all the bolts on the diff covers, correct?
no... i did mine without a jack or ramps. a few tips

leave the top bolt in (but loosen it up, that way, when it drains, the cover wont fall into the drip pan, and when it is done, then take the top bolt out)

make sure you use your RTV (if you arent using a gasket) on the inside of the bolts, as in when your applying it, think of it as a wall. if you put a wall in front of the hole, your good, but if you put the wall behind the hole, oil will seep out from the bolts.

let the RTV cure for about 15 - 20 minutes (it expands). if you try to fill it up right after, the diff fluid will leak right out.

i cant think of anything else... but if i think of something new, ill let you know.

what fluid you plan on using?
Old 12-20-2011, 12:20 PM
  #3938  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by jakbob
no... i did mine without a jack or ramps. a few tips

leave the top bolt in (but loosen it up, that way, when it drains, the cover wont fall into the drip pan, and when it is done, then take the top bolt out)

make sure you use your RTV (if you arent using a gasket) on the inside of the bolts, as in when your applying it, think of it as a wall. if you put a wall in front of the hole, your good, but if you put the wall behind the hole, oil will seep out from the bolts.

let the RTV cure for about 15 - 20 minutes (it expands). if you try to fill it up right after, the diff fluid will leak right out.

i cant think of anything else... but if i think of something new, ill let you know.

what fluid you plan on using?
Thanks for the tips. I am using Valvoline High-Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil from Advance.
Old 12-20-2011, 01:54 PM
  #3939  
CF Veteran
 
brian0128's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Near the airport by the water
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

I could help you tonight but tomorrow I've got dinner plans. Either way I'll be back in crofton by 630 tonight if you want to borrow tools and ramps.
Old 12-20-2011, 02:03 PM
  #3940  
CF Veteran
 
jakbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Passt
Thanks for the tips. I am using Valvoline High-Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil from Advance.
this is what i was talking about with the RTV (the red dots are the holes in the cover, the blue is where you need to put RTV.
Attached Images  
Old 12-20-2011, 02:07 PM
  #3941  
CF Veteran
 
Veeb0rg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 3,325
Received 374 Likes on 256 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Default

welp, valve cover gasket changed with only minor casualties. Then I found out it wasn't the drip that had been making spots all over works parking lot. Stupid heater control valve was leaking and making the wet spots.

It needed changed anyway.
Old 12-20-2011, 02:19 PM
  #3942  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by brian0128
I could help you tonight but tomorrow I've got dinner plans. Either way I'll be back in crofton by 630 tonight if you want to borrow tools and ramps.
Thanks very much for the offer. I'm working overtime tonight until 9:30pm I doubt you'll feel any more like doing it at that point than I will lol.

@Jakbob - Got it, I will make sure not to put the RTV on the outside of the bolts. Makes sense.
Old 12-20-2011, 02:30 PM
  #3943  
CF Veteran
 
jakbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
welp, valve cover gasket changed with only minor casualties. Then I found out it wasn't the drip that had been making spots all over works parking lot. Stupid heater control valve was leaking and making the wet spots.

It needed changed anyway.
Atleast it want like me... I towed a haul trailer to work (a 6x12 enclosed) and then when I came out for lunch, there was a huge puddle of fluid under my driver front seat. Turns out the trailer was a little heavy for the jeep, causing excessive blow-by because of my worn rings, and was blowing so much oil into the airbox, it was leaking out the bottom. I thought it was PS fluid. Also, are you going to tune your antenna? I got an SWR meter and extra cable.

@Passt - I just didn't think I explained it enough :/
Old 12-20-2011, 02:47 PM
  #3944  
Senior Member
 
Passt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

lol no problem
Old 12-20-2011, 02:47 PM
  #3945  
CF Veteran
 
Veeb0rg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 3,325
Received 374 Likes on 256 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Default

yeah, I still need it done, but honestly its so far down on the list of things to do.. ya know?


Quick Reply: Maryland Cherokee Club



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:59 PM.