Maryland Cherokee Club
09-25-2012, 06:37 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: glen burnie md
Posts: 5,151
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
-we need to talk sir!!
09-25-2012, 06:43 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Berea, OH
Posts: 7,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok...bumpsteer:
When you lift a vehicle and your drag link and track bar are out of parallel, you will get bumpsteer.
This is caused by the axle trying to re-center itself when weight is pulled off the front end. If, for example, you lift 3.5 inches and your trackbar is .75 to 1" out of center, it will try to recenter under the body of the truck everytime the weight goes up after hitting a bump....once the bump is over, the body of the truck is yanked back to the actual position of the track bar.
In a nutshell....the drag link is controlling the centering when you hit the bump, the track bar after the bump. They are not united in their mission unless they are in parallel.
I hope this is understandable.
From another site....:
You can also have a bump steer feeling when your jeep is actually doglegging (torsional twisting). This is very evident if you lift your jeep and do not center the axles or use drop brackets. After lifting, the front and rear both are torsioned towards the side of the jeep that the track bar attaches to the frame. As you know the track bars mount points are on different sides of the jeep in the front vs. the rear. I had this bumpsteer feeling after I put on the RC budget boost. It felt like the front and rear of the jeep would go in differing directions on a moderate to severe bump. Althought not technically bump steer, it is a similar feeling except for no real affect in the steering wheel.
To correct, I put on adjustable track bars which recentered the axels and took out most of the torsioning affect. Without brackets to reposition the track bar mount points, you will have more torsion with a lifted jeep due to the different geometry of the track bars vs. stock.
The other, more prominent cause is a lifted jeep having the front track bar and the drag link not on the same basic plane. With much lift at all, the planes are quite different. If the front compresses in a bump, the track bar travels one distance and the drag link travels a different distance. This then forces the drag link to affect the wheels the amount of the differing distance. see image below. Drop brackets on the track bar, drop pitman arm, or both are used to correct this issue.
09-25-2012, 06:47 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Berea, OH
Posts: 7,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got my own lund visor...
I passed on the CB...
Your baiting is ineffective on me...I always get what I want...eventually.
I passed on the CB...
Your baiting is ineffective on me...I always get what I want...eventually.
09-25-2012, 06:50 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Berea, OH
Posts: 7,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A better explanation...sometimes I suck at the actual verbiage....
Jeep Bump Steer Explained
Bump steer is one of those mildly dangerous annoyances which come from second-guessing Jeep engineers. This would be a good excuse for an article about why not to modify a Jeep, but that's not realistic. The only reason to own a Jeep is to modify it, so let's just concentrate on fixing the problems which inevitably result from Jeep ownership. Bump steer is the directional change in the front wheels caused by suspension movement instead of your steering system. Okay, now in English: bump steer is when the bumps are steering your Jeep and you aren't. Naturally, you'll want to fix that quickly.
The ultimate cause of bump steer can usually be traced to lifting a vehicle without adjusting the drag link and track bar properly. Under factory-created circumstances, the track bar and the drag link are parallel to each other. Lifting the vehicle changes that geometry. If you hit a bump, your suspension moves upward. If those two bars are no longer parallel, the upward movement of the suspension pushes or pulls the drag link sideways. One side of your axle will compress, causing the Jeep to steer to that side as soon as the suspension comes back down.
As with many Jeep maladies, the best fix is simply prevention. If you are planning to lift your rig, get a lift kit with a trac-bar relocation bracket which enables you to reposition the track bar so it remains parallel to the drag link. Some lift kit manufacturers recommend using a dropped Pitman arm as well, although this could vary in effectiveness depending on your model and year. If your vehicle has already been lifted and you are beginning to experience bump steer, you have some re-engineering to do. In the end your track bar length and angle need to match those of the drag link, and this may require you to relocate the steering stabilizer as well as the anti-sway bar linkage.
Your bump steer might not completely disappear as a result of this further modification. The suspension setting, the weight of the passengers and the placement of your cargo will all change the way your steering works. Also, since no two Jeeps are identical, even before the modifications, your vehicle could need more tweaking than most. If all else fails, go through your lift kit instructions and - yes - the owner's manual, and find out what you didn't change that you should have.
Jeep Bump Steer Explained
Bump steer is one of those mildly dangerous annoyances which come from second-guessing Jeep engineers. This would be a good excuse for an article about why not to modify a Jeep, but that's not realistic. The only reason to own a Jeep is to modify it, so let's just concentrate on fixing the problems which inevitably result from Jeep ownership. Bump steer is the directional change in the front wheels caused by suspension movement instead of your steering system. Okay, now in English: bump steer is when the bumps are steering your Jeep and you aren't. Naturally, you'll want to fix that quickly.
The ultimate cause of bump steer can usually be traced to lifting a vehicle without adjusting the drag link and track bar properly. Under factory-created circumstances, the track bar and the drag link are parallel to each other. Lifting the vehicle changes that geometry. If you hit a bump, your suspension moves upward. If those two bars are no longer parallel, the upward movement of the suspension pushes or pulls the drag link sideways. One side of your axle will compress, causing the Jeep to steer to that side as soon as the suspension comes back down.
As with many Jeep maladies, the best fix is simply prevention. If you are planning to lift your rig, get a lift kit with a trac-bar relocation bracket which enables you to reposition the track bar so it remains parallel to the drag link. Some lift kit manufacturers recommend using a dropped Pitman arm as well, although this could vary in effectiveness depending on your model and year. If your vehicle has already been lifted and you are beginning to experience bump steer, you have some re-engineering to do. In the end your track bar length and angle need to match those of the drag link, and this may require you to relocate the steering stabilizer as well as the anti-sway bar linkage.
Your bump steer might not completely disappear as a result of this further modification. The suspension setting, the weight of the passengers and the placement of your cargo will all change the way your steering works. Also, since no two Jeeps are identical, even before the modifications, your vehicle could need more tweaking than most. If all else fails, go through your lift kit instructions and - yes - the owner's manual, and find out what you didn't change that you should have.
09-25-2012, 06:55 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Berea, OH
Posts: 7,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Jeep Steering Stabilizers Explained
A steering stabilizer, also referred to as a steering damper, works like a shock absorber for your steering system. That may sound odd, as your steering wheel ideally shouldn't hit the ground. The parts of your jeep that do hit the ground, however, routinely send that impact throughout the vehicle. The shock absorbers attached to your wheels are useful for blunting the effect of rough pavement, but sometimes extra help is needed with larger potholes or smaller boulders. The steering stabilizer is meant to protect the steering column - and your wrists - from whatever you are putting your tires through.
Steering stabilizers are standard on most Jeeps. Your steering stabilizer was precisely engineered to absorb the vibrations that everyday driving will impose on your vehicle. Because it will absorb and mitigate most of the front end vibration, the steering stabilizer will also extend the working life of your ball joints, tie rods and other steering components. If your Jeep is used primarily on some sort of road, and you have refrained from doing any extreme modifications, your factory steering stabilizer should do its job just fine.
Of course, there isn't much point in owning a Jeep unless you can lift the vehicle, add larger tires, heavy duty shocks, longer control arms and a 90lb winch on the front, right? While all of these modifications could make off-road performance a lot more fun, they can render your steering stabilizer just about useless. The results of an overwhelmed steering stabilizer are quickly apparent; shimmies, shakes, bump steering and a steering wheel that wants to jump out of your hands. Upgrading to a heavy-duty steering stabilizer will decrease any shimmies, help prevent the steering wheel from jumping out of your hands on rough roads and could provide more control in case of a blowout.
A good steering stabilizer can be found for around $50, which is much cheaper than replacing your steering linkage. Depending on your health insurance, it should also be cheaper than fixing whatever damage is done to your wrists. Replacing the steering stabilizer should be an easy task for a competent mechanic. One piece of advice, though; if you don't have a Pitman arm puller, it is worth renting one to remove the tapered bolt which is holding the old stabilizer in place.
If you plan to lift your Jeep soon, plan on upgrading your steering stabilizer as well. If you've already done the lift, it's not too late, just less convenient. Getting the job done will make your Jeep easier to control and less likely to break again. What's not to like?
A steering stabilizer, also referred to as a steering damper, works like a shock absorber for your steering system. That may sound odd, as your steering wheel ideally shouldn't hit the ground. The parts of your jeep that do hit the ground, however, routinely send that impact throughout the vehicle. The shock absorbers attached to your wheels are useful for blunting the effect of rough pavement, but sometimes extra help is needed with larger potholes or smaller boulders. The steering stabilizer is meant to protect the steering column - and your wrists - from whatever you are putting your tires through.
Steering stabilizers are standard on most Jeeps. Your steering stabilizer was precisely engineered to absorb the vibrations that everyday driving will impose on your vehicle. Because it will absorb and mitigate most of the front end vibration, the steering stabilizer will also extend the working life of your ball joints, tie rods and other steering components. If your Jeep is used primarily on some sort of road, and you have refrained from doing any extreme modifications, your factory steering stabilizer should do its job just fine.
Of course, there isn't much point in owning a Jeep unless you can lift the vehicle, add larger tires, heavy duty shocks, longer control arms and a 90lb winch on the front, right? While all of these modifications could make off-road performance a lot more fun, they can render your steering stabilizer just about useless. The results of an overwhelmed steering stabilizer are quickly apparent; shimmies, shakes, bump steering and a steering wheel that wants to jump out of your hands. Upgrading to a heavy-duty steering stabilizer will decrease any shimmies, help prevent the steering wheel from jumping out of your hands on rough roads and could provide more control in case of a blowout.
A good steering stabilizer can be found for around $50, which is much cheaper than replacing your steering linkage. Depending on your health insurance, it should also be cheaper than fixing whatever damage is done to your wrists. Replacing the steering stabilizer should be an easy task for a competent mechanic. One piece of advice, though; if you don't have a Pitman arm puller, it is worth renting one to remove the tapered bolt which is holding the old stabilizer in place.
If you plan to lift your Jeep soon, plan on upgrading your steering stabilizer as well. If you've already done the lift, it's not too late, just less convenient. Getting the job done will make your Jeep easier to control and less likely to break again. What's not to like?
09-25-2012, 06:57 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 6,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
09-25-2012, 07:19 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 8,272
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Ok...bumpsteer:
When you lift a vehicle and your drag link and track bar are out of parallel, you will get bumpsteer.
This is caused by the axle trying to re-center itself when weight is pulled off the front end. If, for example, you lift 3.5 inches and your trackbar is .75 to 1" out of center, it will try to recenter under the body of the truck everytime the weight goes up after hitting a bump....once the bump is over, the body of the truck is yanked back to the actual position of the track bar.
In a nutshell....the drag link is controlling the centering when you hit the bump, the track bar after the bump. They are not united in their mission unless they are in parallel.
I hope this is understandable.
From another site....:
You can also have a bump steer feeling when your jeep is actually doglegging (torsional twisting). This is very evident if you lift your jeep and do not center the axles or use drop brackets. After lifting, the front and rear both are torsioned towards the side of the jeep that the track bar attaches to the frame. As you know the track bars mount points are on different sides of the jeep in the front vs. the rear. I had this bumpsteer feeling after I put on the RC budget boost. It felt like the front and rear of the jeep would go in differing directions on a moderate to severe bump. Althought not technically bump steer, it is a similar feeling except for no real affect in the steering wheel.
To correct, I put on adjustable track bars which recentered the axels and took out most of the torsioning affect. Without brackets to reposition the track bar mount points, you will have more torsion with a lifted jeep due to the different geometry of the track bars vs. stock.
The other, more prominent cause is a lifted jeep having the front track bar and the drag link not on the same basic plane. With much lift at all, the planes are quite different. If the front compresses in a bump, the track bar travels one distance and the drag link travels a different distance. This then forces the drag link to affect the wheels the amount of the differing distance. see image below. Drop brackets on the track bar, drop pitman arm, or both are used to correct this issue.
When you lift a vehicle and your drag link and track bar are out of parallel, you will get bumpsteer.
This is caused by the axle trying to re-center itself when weight is pulled off the front end. If, for example, you lift 3.5 inches and your trackbar is .75 to 1" out of center, it will try to recenter under the body of the truck everytime the weight goes up after hitting a bump....once the bump is over, the body of the truck is yanked back to the actual position of the track bar.
In a nutshell....the drag link is controlling the centering when you hit the bump, the track bar after the bump. They are not united in their mission unless they are in parallel.
I hope this is understandable.
From another site....:
You can also have a bump steer feeling when your jeep is actually doglegging (torsional twisting). This is very evident if you lift your jeep and do not center the axles or use drop brackets. After lifting, the front and rear both are torsioned towards the side of the jeep that the track bar attaches to the frame. As you know the track bars mount points are on different sides of the jeep in the front vs. the rear. I had this bumpsteer feeling after I put on the RC budget boost. It felt like the front and rear of the jeep would go in differing directions on a moderate to severe bump. Althought not technically bump steer, it is a similar feeling except for no real affect in the steering wheel.
To correct, I put on adjustable track bars which recentered the axels and took out most of the torsioning affect. Without brackets to reposition the track bar mount points, you will have more torsion with a lifted jeep due to the different geometry of the track bars vs. stock.
The other, more prominent cause is a lifted jeep having the front track bar and the drag link not on the same basic plane. With much lift at all, the planes are quite different. If the front compresses in a bump, the track bar travels one distance and the drag link travels a different distance. This then forces the drag link to affect the wheels the amount of the differing distance. see image below. Drop brackets on the track bar, drop pitman arm, or both are used to correct this issue.