Maryland Cherokee Club
#5131
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Jakbob, would you be opposed to peicing your own H&T together?
I believe someone figured out that you can use 3103-27CV sourced from various places, cut it down and make your "own" H&T. Its a yoke not flange.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm
Its the same piece that IRO sells, only IRO is precut down.
I believe someone figured out that you can use 3103-27CV sourced from various places, cut it down and make your "own" H&T. Its a yoke not flange.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm
Its the same piece that IRO sells, only IRO is precut down.
#5132
::CF Moderator::
You could just order the flange seal part, then order the yoke separately.
Or ya know upgrade to a better box and get a 231..
Or ya know upgrade to a better box and get a 231..
#5133
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
so what it really boils down for me is that the 242 has an additional 4x4 mode, and its already in the vehicle. either transfercase i would get the H&T, so the pros dont outweigh the cons yet. maybe in the future when i can build up my tool collection again, but not now... im having a hard enough time finding people to help me with my lift when i get it... :/
#5134
::CF Moderator::
You know I'm there when you get your lift. I can probably wrangle my brother into helpin too.
*i was just harassin ya about the 231*
*i was just harassin ya about the 231*
#5135
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
#5136
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Originally Posted by jakbob
since i have the old style 242 i need the entire kit. i personally do not trust myself ordering parts. i have to stare at serial numbers all day (on the hundreds of guitars i keep inventory on) and i frequently get like a blur from looking at them too long... :/
#5137
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Location: Near the airport by the water
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Big thanks to Justin(dukie564) for helping me out this evening. We got the rear completed tonight. All 4 upper shock bolts broke, the 2 front leaf spring bolts needed an air hammer to get out, and the rear rubber brake line was a hair to short to get these rear leafs from OME in (
but we managed even thought the Jeep was teetering on the lift). Knowing what I know now I would have bought new shackles and leaf spring bolts before doing the rear.
We just started the front before calling it quits at 830 and we broke a front shock bolt so I wish I would have bought new bolts for the front as well. I'll pick some up in the morning. Also, OME front shocks don't come with bushings and mine are worn out. I'll see if I can source those locally as well tomorrow.
The first picture is of Justin when the rear was completed. I would have never finished lifting the rear tonight without his help and knowledge of the XJ platform.
Edit: After looking at these pictures I've decided I need to do a rear disc swap. Those drums look horrible compared to the front discs. Hell, I might as well look into doing an 8.8 swap with 4.10 gears and a locker with disc brakes...........Oh boy, I'm spending money before I even have my current project completed!!
but we managed even thought the Jeep was teetering on the lift). Knowing what I know now I would have bought new shackles and leaf spring bolts before doing the rear.
We just started the front before calling it quits at 830 and we broke a front shock bolt so I wish I would have bought new bolts for the front as well. I'll pick some up in the morning. Also, OME front shocks don't come with bushings and mine are worn out. I'll see if I can source those locally as well tomorrow.
The first picture is of Justin when the rear was completed. I would have never finished lifting the rear tonight without his help and knowledge of the XJ platform.
Edit: After looking at these pictures I've decided I need to do a rear disc swap. Those drums look horrible compared to the front discs. Hell, I might as well look into doing an 8.8 swap with 4.10 gears and a locker with disc brakes...........Oh boy, I'm spending money before I even have my current project completed!!
Last edited by brian0128; 01-06-2012 at 10:02 PM.
#5139
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I broke them before Justin got there so I just used an air chisel and broke them out. I had bought 1 inch 5/16'th bolts knowing this would most likely happen. When Justin got there, he used a thin wire and routed it through the bolt hole to the access area and then wrapped the wire around the bolt threads. Then he pulled the wire and the bolt fell into place. Once he did both, I held the shock in place while he tightened the new nuts down.
Air chisel took about 2 minutes (I could have used a chisel and a hammer) and then feeding the new bolts through took about 10 minutes total with wrapping the wire and talking to each other.
The whole time Justin was feeding the bolts through there was a guy telling him to cut bigger openings. Justin just kept saying "you don't need to do that".
Air chisel took about 2 minutes (I could have used a chisel and a hammer) and then feeding the new bolts through took about 10 minutes total with wrapping the wire and talking to each other.
The whole time Justin was feeding the bolts through there was a guy telling him to cut bigger openings. Justin just kept saying "you don't need to do that".
Last edited by brian0128; 01-06-2012 at 10:23 PM.
#5140
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Location: Sykesville, MD
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
so i have a really small leak it seems to be coming from the transfer case, just RTV it? or take it off and re-seal?
*remember- doin an engine swap soon so I wont mind making everything go like clockwork (funny cause that never seems to be the case with an XJ)
*remember- doin an engine swap soon so I wont mind making everything go like clockwork (funny cause that never seems to be the case with an XJ)
#5141
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Location: Pasadena, MD
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Paul Reed Smith Guitars, LTD
that would be awesome. doesnt he have a lift? cause i have a bad phobia about vehicles on jackstands...
and on another note, i need some ambien...
that would be awesome. doesnt he have a lift? cause i have a bad phobia about vehicles on jackstands...
and on another note, i need some ambien...
Last edited by jakbob; 01-07-2012 at 03:49 AM. Reason: in my half awake stupor, i had put my replies in the quotes...
#5142
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Calvert County MD
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Year: 1984
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L 4cyc
All right guys and girls I need help on a decision. Do I scrap the 84 I have n get a new jeep or keep it n keep working thru the problems. I spent 500 on the jeep itself n said I wasn't gonna spend more more than 1500 to get the engine running normal. I have now hit about $2000 on getting the engine up so I can drive it at all. So I'm wondering should I take it sell it n buy a newer one that I can really drive.
#5143
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
All right guys and girls I need help on a decision. Do I scrap the 84 I have n get a new jeep or keep it n keep working thru the problems. I spent 500 on the jeep itself n said I wasn't gonna spend more more than 1500 to get the engine running normal. I have now hit about $2000 on getting the engine up so I can drive it at all. So I'm wondering should I take it sell it n buy a newer one that I can really drive.
#5144
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Location: Bowie, MD
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I like that idea too. All I need is an axle shaft, lol. Does anyone have a 8.25 rear shaft lying around they wouldn't mind selling? Also, I like zwhiz's suggestion about the College Park BWW.
#5145
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Year: 1984
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L 4cyc
Originally Posted by jakbob
i dont know exactly what you have spent and on what, but you prolly have put an HO motor in it for cheap.