Maryland Cherokee Club
#5251
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
I have a trick I've used many times. I have a roll of mechanics wire - cut a nice long piece, thread it through the hole and run it back to an access point, then I wrap that end around the threads of the new bolt, and pull it through the frame and down into the hole, then carefully unwind the wire and throw a nut on.
#5252
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Looking to buy from someone
- 1" or 1.5" coil spacers
- 2 or 3 degree rear axle shims - steel preferred
- extended front / rear bumpstops - let me know what you have
- double shear trackbar for 4-6" - already have frame bracket
lemme know what you have. I'm located in Laurel, MD
I also still have a set of front stainless steel extended brake lines for sale. $50 for both, brackets/copper washers not included ($4 from Rough Country)
- 1" or 1.5" coil spacers
- 2 or 3 degree rear axle shims - steel preferred
- extended front / rear bumpstops - let me know what you have
- double shear trackbar for 4-6" - already have frame bracket
lemme know what you have. I'm located in Laurel, MD
I also still have a set of front stainless steel extended brake lines for sale. $50 for both, brackets/copper washers not included ($4 from Rough Country)
#5253
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Partlow, va
Posts: 3,380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6, 307 injectors
Originally Posted by dukie564
I have a trick I've used many times. I have a roll of mechanics wire - cut a nice long piece, thread it through the hole and run it back to an access point, then I wrap that end around the threads of the new bolt, and pull it through the frame and down into the hole, then carefully unwind the wire and throw a nut on.
#5254
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
the nut strips? I didn't use them. I suppose it would make it easier to bolt it up but you have to take the bumper off to slide them in.
#5255
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Linthicum, Md
Posts: 903
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
Took some persuasion and manipulation.
I had to drill/grind/cut some new holes in the hitch, to use as mounting points.
Then as far as threading is concerned, I knew that was going to be an issue from when I put the skid on.
So I used a piece of metal, steel, approx. 3" long and 1 1/2" wide, drilled a hole in it, put a grade 8 bolt thru it, welded the bolt to the steel, cut a access hole in the frame rail, dropped it in & like magic it doesnt go anywhere. made it alot easier to thread the nut on and of course when hammering i didnt have to worry about it going back up into the frame and losing it to the point of having to figure out how to get it back out, like I did initially with the skid plate. Oh and of course I welded the hole closed again.
If need be I can see if I have some pictures to show you what Im talking about, but its pretty self explanatory I think. And My pictures are somewhat limited, as I was doing all the work and I didnt think about doing pictures til part way thru it and by the time I did think of it I was so tired I just took a few quick ones for reference.
Last edited by DocOrng XJ; 01-09-2012 at 09:29 AM.
#5256
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
on another note, anyone know if the MAP sensor for a 99+ puts out the same values as a regular HO one (the one mounted on the firewall). I was wondering cause if xjnut44 gets the 99+ intake and the map sensor is integrated with the throttle body, then a quick rewire would be all that is needed instead of putting a 93 throttle body on. Just thinking outside the box.
motor stuff is more my forte' than electrical lol, how long/hard is it to swap the HO in? my renix is getting tired... so when the renix comes out, the stroker project begins...
Last edited by jakbob; 01-09-2012 at 09:32 AM. Reason: everyone knows they should wait atleast 5 minutes after they see my post...
#5258
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#5259
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sykesville, MD
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Originally Posted by jakbob
motor stuff is more my forte' than electrical lol, how long/hard is it to swap the HO in? my renix is getting tired... so when the renix comes out, the stroker project begins...
#5260
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 6,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
This is what I did for my hitch. It sounds like this is what you guys mean. Make sure when you weld the nuts on, to have a sacrificial bolt in it to prevent warping of the nut. This is before, during and after.
#5263
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
guys it's really simple to do it how I said, just thread the bolt into the wire and pull it though and down
here's a sweet MS Paint i drew up (i know...mad skills right?)
here's a sweet MS Paint i drew up (i know...mad skills right?)