dukie564

I have a trick I've used many times. I have a roll of mechanics wire - cut a nice long piece, thread it through the hole and run it back to an access point, then I wrap that end around the threads of the new bolt, and pull it through the frame and down into the hole, then carefully unwind the wire and throw a nut on.

dukie564

Looking to buy from someone

- 1" or 1.5" coil spacers
- 2 or 3 degree rear axle shims - steel preferred
- extended front / rear bumpstops - let me know what you have
- double shear trackbar for 4-6" - already have frame bracket

lemme know what you have. I'm located in Laurel, MD



I also still have a set of front stainless steel extended brake lines for sale. $50 for both, brackets/copper washers not included ($4 from Rough Country)

94cherokeeman

Do u need blocks because on youtube if u put in hitch install they use specific blocks, and the ones I have don't match

dukie564

the nut strips? I didn't use them. I suppose it would make it easier to bolt it up but you have to take the bumper off to slide them in.

DocOrng XJ

I had a problem with putting my hitch on, with my gas tank skid as well.
Took some persuasion and manipulation.
I had to drill/grind/cut some new holes in the hitch, to use as mounting points.
Then as far as threading is concerned, I knew that was going to be an issue from when I put the skid on.

So I used a piece of metal, steel, approx. 3" long and 1 1/2" wide, drilled a hole in it, put a grade 8 bolt thru it, welded the bolt to the steel, cut a access hole in the frame rail, dropped it in & like magic it doesnt go anywhere. made it alot easier to thread the nut on and of course when hammering i didnt have to worry about it going back up into the frame and losing it to the point of having to figure out how to get it back out, like I did initially with the skid plate. Oh and of course I welded the hole closed again.

If need be I can see if I have some pictures to show you what Im talking about, but its pretty self explanatory I think. And My pictures are somewhat limited, as I was doing all the work and I didnt think about doing pictures til part way thru it and by the time I did think of it I was so tired I just took a few quick ones for reference.

jakbob

i think you also need the nutstrips for spreading the load on the rear of the "frame".

on another note, anyone know if the MAP sensor for a 99+ puts out the same values as a regular HO one (the one mounted on the firewall). I was wondering cause if xjnut44 gets the 99+ intake and the map sensor is integrated with the throttle body, then a quick rewire would be all that is needed instead of putting a 93 throttle body on. Just thinking outside the box.


motor stuff is more my forte' than electrical lol, how long/hard is it to swap the HO in? my renix is getting tired... so when the renix comes out, the stroker project begins...

94cherokeeman

Ok so any reccomendations to install my hitch

dukie564

no you don't, it's just to hold the nuts in place

xjknut11

good ha. And im not sure im either swapping it in this weekend or next weekend, gotta but new intake and exhaust from the jy and my buddy is scoring me a deal on a new radiator.

96xjclassic

This is what I did for my hitch. It sounds like this is what you guys mean. Make sure when you weld the nuts on, to have a sacrificial bolt in it to prevent warping of the nut. This is before, during and after.

94cherokeeman

Yea but I don't have access to a welder and I kinda need the hitch installed today

jakbob

are you swapping in an HO motor and keeping the renix electrical?


how much for you to fab it up lol

dukie564

guys it's really simple to do it how I said, just thread the bolt into the wire and pull it though and down

here's a sweet MS Paint i drew up (i know...mad skills right?)

94cherokeeman

Yea I got that what im asking is do I use the blocks that the Reese hitch comes with

dukie564

what blocks...?