Maryland Cherokee Club
03-18-2013, 08:53 AM
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I can feel it when I'm driving. It's like a pulsing in the right front.
03-18-2013, 09:13 AM
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Location: Mt Airy, MD
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Year: 1997/2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 4.0's
Morning East Coast,
How yawl doing? nothing like a weekend of doing homework. and it was nice and in the 80's this weekend in Arizona..
Be good and be safe.....
How yawl doing? nothing like a weekend of doing homework. and it was nice and in the 80's this weekend in Arizona..
Be good and be safe.....
03-18-2013, 10:14 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Forest Hill, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
03-18-2013, 11:39 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Forest Hill, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
03-18-2013, 11:46 AM
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Location: Bowie,MD
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-18-2013, 11:46 AM
Senior Member
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Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Nice, I just need my rear brake line u bolts trackbar from sean and lcas from pudgy and then get it all on mine, I'm still looking for 15x8s and 31s
03-18-2013, 11:51 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
03-18-2013, 11:52 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Alec i really want to see pictures of this floor that supposedly is not fixable. I understand Oliver not wanting to patch large sections by hand, but if the floor pans are really that bad, but the unibody rails are still intact, the easiest thing would be to get new full floor pans and weld them in. I can't imagine yours are worse than mine...
03-18-2013, 11:52 AM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
03-18-2013, 11:59 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Forest Hill, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
yeah I'd say. I just really hope that the guy is right when he says it's a high pinion D30. otherwise I'm not buying it. his ad says its a 2000, but he says other things say 99, and I explained to him the difference and he looked and said it was high pinion, so I guess we'll find out.
sounds good to me, lol. I'm trying to find some other places to go. so far I've been going into the water right near damien in Joppatowne on 40.
that's not a bad idea.
sounds good to me, lol. I'm trying to find some other places to go. so far I've been going into the water right near damien in Joppatowne on 40.
Alec i really want to see pictures of this floor that supposedly is not fixable. I understand Oliver not wanting to patch large sections by hand, but if the floor pans are really that bad, but the unibody rails are still intact, the easiest thing would be to get new full floor pans and weld them in.
03-18-2013, 12:06 PM
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Location: Berea, OH
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alec i really want to see pictures of this floor that supposedly is not fixable. I understand Oliver not wanting to patch large sections by hand, but if the floor pans are really that bad, but the unibody rails are still intact, the easiest thing would be to get new full floor pans and weld them in. I can't imagine yours are worse than mine...
I have done worse.
On my 94, I sleeved the rails, boxed in the bad parts with 3/16" flat stock, and boxed the rest in with 3x3 3/16" angle iron. The entire rail system of the Jeep was redone because of the same situation you mention. I then replaced the entire floor with 18 G sheet metal.
Entire project cost me about $150 including paint and liner.
How do I know it worked? The Jeep handled about 150x better than it did before the project. (no more unibody flex and roll)
I know it can be hard to do....but have you thought about keeping this as a wheeler (and doing above) and getting another DD?
Read starting here....
http://www.myunibody.com/forum/viewt...t=813&start=70
03-18-2013, 12:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Alec i really want to see pictures of this floor that supposedly is not fixable. I understand Oliver not wanting to patch large sections by hand, but if the floor pans are really that bad, but the unibody rails are still intact, the easiest thing would be to get new full floor pans and weld them in. I can't imagine yours are worse than mine...
I have done worse.
On my 94, I sleeved the rails, boxed in the bad parts with 3/16" flat stock, and boxed the rest in with 3x3 3/16" angle iron. The entire rail system of the Jeep was redone because of the same situation you mention. I then replaced the entire floor with 18 G sheet metal.
Entire project cost me about $150 including paint and liner.
How do I know it worked? The Jeep handled about 150x better than it did before the project. (no more unibody flex and roll)
I know it can be hard to do....but have you thought about keeping this as a wheeler (and doing above) and getting another DD?
Read starting here....
http://www.myunibody.com/forum/viewt...t=813&start=70
I mean ive messed up some stuff on this jeep in the past year and a half and the rust is also over my back hatch.
03-18-2013, 12:43 PM
CF Veteran
