Maryland Cherokee Club
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Market
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
wow!! killed it, ok question for yawl, i gotta gifty from Ford for my uncanny ability to do my job,it's a gift certificate from amazon,now do i buy some practical bits? hi-lift jack etc. or do i get the or-fab 1/4 armor like Fritz's got and look cool on the side of the road cuz i cant change my tire? decision's decision's
and by no means was that a knock at Fritz, cuz i think his rig is bad azs-
and by no means was that a knock at Fritz, cuz i think his rig is bad azs-
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Location: Woodsboro, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Morning guys, if I'm gonna run rock lights and two led spots, do I tie that all in to the battery?
Edit: and do I need a larger alternator?
Edit: and do I need a larger alternator?
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
I think I would tie them into the fuse box and have a switch so they turn off with the jeep.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would suggest that you run them to a power distribution block with the power connected to the alternator hot lug with appropriate grounds done to the battery (-) screw on the fender or freshly tapped to the frame. Running to the battery is fine electrically but tends to clutter the terminal space unless you have top and side terminals. Without knowing the current draw from the lights and spots, I can't say if you need a beefier alternator but it couldn't hurt. You should also plan on upgrading your battery/alt cables by doing the "big four".
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
good selling technique, lol.
I'm going to need to replace the cables that go to the terminals soon. might as well do an upgrade while I'm there.
I would suggest that you run them to a power distribution block with the power connected to the alternator hot lug with appropriate grounds done to the battery (-) screw on the fender or freshly tapped to the frame. Running to the battery is fine electrically but tends to clutter the terminal space unless you have top and side terminals. Without knowing the current draw from the lights and spots, I can't say if you need a beefier alternator but it couldn't hurt. You should also plan on upgrading your battery/alt cables by doing the "big four".