Maryland Cherokee Club
10-08-2013, 12:38 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
more floor pan installation goodness on Saturday morning/afternoon in Sykesville. Who's in?
10-08-2013, 01:01 PM
CF Veteran
10-08-2013, 02:50 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 10,447
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
10-08-2013, 03:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Laurel, MD
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
10-08-2013, 03:31 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
not specialized oil - just use conventional (non-synthetic)
-Prime the oiling system, run conventional multi grade oil per engine's oil spec.
-Warm up, vary RPMs,gradually increase load and RPM's;
-Listen for noises, check for leaks, watch guages, evaluate engine build and install.
-drain the oil at 50 miles and 500 miles. Also check if there are re-torquing requirements.
-During the first 50 miles run partial throttle/ partial vacuum building to full throttle / full vacuum cycles in 3rd gear when engine is fulling warmed up ...to seat or 'work' the rings. Engine must be under some load, but not lugging or going above 2/3 max RPM.
-continue increasing RPM and pushing the engine over the first 1000 miles, but letting engine run and rev freely.
-After 1000 miles change oil and start 3000 mile interval with conventional oil.
-4000 miles switch to synthetic oil and determine best 'longer' interval
-Prime the oiling system, run conventional multi grade oil per engine's oil spec.
-Warm up, vary RPMs,gradually increase load and RPM's;
-Listen for noises, check for leaks, watch guages, evaluate engine build and install.
-drain the oil at 50 miles and 500 miles. Also check if there are re-torquing requirements.
-During the first 50 miles run partial throttle/ partial vacuum building to full throttle / full vacuum cycles in 3rd gear when engine is fulling warmed up ...to seat or 'work' the rings. Engine must be under some load, but not lugging or going above 2/3 max RPM.
-continue increasing RPM and pushing the engine over the first 1000 miles, but letting engine run and rev freely.
-After 1000 miles change oil and start 3000 mile interval with conventional oil.
-4000 miles switch to synthetic oil and determine best 'longer' interval
10-08-2013, 03:47 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sykesville, Md
Posts: 2,961
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
not specialized oil - just use conventional (non-synthetic)
-Prime the oiling system, run conventional multi grade oil per engine's oil spec.
-Warm up, vary RPMs,gradually increase load and RPM's;
-Listen for noises, check for leaks, watch guages, evaluate engine build and install.
-drain the oil at 50 miles and 500 miles. Also check if there are re-torquing requirements.
-During the first 50 miles run partial throttle/ partial vacuum building to full throttle / full vacuum cycles in 3rd gear when engine is fulling warmed up ...to seat or 'work' the rings. Engine must be under some load, but not lugging or going above 2/3 max RPM.
-continue increasing RPM and pushing the engine over the first 1000 miles, but letting engine run and rev freely.
-After 1000 miles change oil and start 3000 mile interval with conventional oil.
-4000 miles switch to synthetic oil and determine best 'longer' interval
-Prime the oiling system, run conventional multi grade oil per engine's oil spec.
-Warm up, vary RPMs,gradually increase load and RPM's;
-Listen for noises, check for leaks, watch guages, evaluate engine build and install.
-drain the oil at 50 miles and 500 miles. Also check if there are re-torquing requirements.
-During the first 50 miles run partial throttle/ partial vacuum building to full throttle / full vacuum cycles in 3rd gear when engine is fulling warmed up ...to seat or 'work' the rings. Engine must be under some load, but not lugging or going above 2/3 max RPM.
-continue increasing RPM and pushing the engine over the first 1000 miles, but letting engine run and rev freely.
-After 1000 miles change oil and start 3000 mile interval with conventional oil.
-4000 miles switch to synthetic oil and determine best 'longer' interval
10-08-2013, 04:58 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
Posts: 553
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Whats going on all? Havent posted on here since august. Been busy with work and such. No real updates on the jeep, just been slowly adding rock lights, Lots of splicing. Got some LEDs for the front bumper.
Latest issue is the nss. won't start, no reverse lights, wont shift into overdrive
Gonna tackle it tomorrow using this write-up
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
any additions/comments?
Latest issue is the nss. won't start, no reverse lights, wont shift into overdrive
Gonna tackle it tomorrow using this write-up
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
any additions/comments?
10-08-2013, 05:36 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: glen burnie md
Posts: 5,151
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
me thinks they run-em purty good after build, my humble opinion is 1500 miles, normal driving, but don't hit the cruise and roll, then get a GOOD oil filter-n-go with the oil of choice. hopefully a good syn
You are, after all, all up under that warrantree 
You are, after all, all up under that warrantree
10-08-2013, 06:32 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
I don't know what was harder to read... Justin's or Steve's lol