Maryland Cherokee Club
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
My endorsement. Congrats dude!
My 4.slow only has 208k on it.
I just rebuilt the top half, rod bearings, rings, and all the seals at 207k though. I had a lot of oil burning and a blow by issue. I changed from using the Wix 51515 filter to another wix filter in Salad's thread that supposedly had the same flow and bypass ratings, but as soon as I did the oil and filter change the next morning I drove to go wheeling and when I got there there was a pretty big cloud of blue smoke behind me all day. Wasn't like that before and it didnt go away by changing filters back to a 51515 afterwards. Now I am at about 500 miles after the rebuild and am due for another oil change. I'll be going back to my mobil1 10w-30 synthetic.
My 4.slow only has 208k on it.
I just rebuilt the top half, rod bearings, rings, and all the seals at 207k though. I had a lot of oil burning and a blow by issue. I changed from using the Wix 51515 filter to another wix filter in Salad's thread that supposedly had the same flow and bypass ratings, but as soon as I did the oil and filter change the next morning I drove to go wheeling and when I got there there was a pretty big cloud of blue smoke behind me all day. Wasn't like that before and it didnt go away by changing filters back to a 51515 afterwards. Now I am at about 500 miles after the rebuild and am due for another oil change. I'll be going back to my mobil1 10w-30 synthetic.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
go 5w-30. No reason to make the engine work harder then it needs to when it's cold.
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I am not sure what to put back in it yet as far as keep running conventional or go ahead and go back to synthetic. It has 5w-30 in it now. I might keep running that for a while. Even when it is cold here it doesn't get cold. During the coldest time of winter we might see single digits a few times a year. I know you didn't mean weather cold lol. I always worry about the cooling system when it gets cold and busting my block.
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Location: Nashville
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yep mines a slug but instead of burning oil I can't keep pressure and I eat coolant. Do you have a parts list you could send over?
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I could make one. I think a lot of my restored power came from the new rings. Mine were worn pretty well but the cylinder walls were still in great shape. I rented a compression tester back in March and my compression was **** poor. I can't remember the numbers, but it was terrible and a wet compression test yielded that the rings were in bad shape. I haven't done a test yet but I could tell a big difference turning the crank when it was on the stand.
My valves and seats were pitted so I sent it to a local machine shop and they cleaned the head, did a nice valve job, replaced all the springs, valves, and seals. I bought the parts before hand but I didn't like how the seats looked and I wanted it clean so it was easier for them to do it that for me to take another day on it. They also said it was slightly warped and they milled it down so I got my moneys worth out of the $200 something I spent there.
They also removed a broken manifold bolt in the bottom rear of the head and put a helicoil in. That temperature sensor in the back of the head on the early model ones is a PITA to get to without sitting on the damn engine once it is in the Jeep. I broke the stock one removing the engine, I got a bad one from O reilly, I broke the replacement one they gave me, then I said F it and got an aftermarket gauge with an aftermarket sender without the plastic clip at the top.
With synthetic oil the last 40k I had 0 sludge and the oil pump screen looked mint.
My valves and seats were pitted so I sent it to a local machine shop and they cleaned the head, did a nice valve job, replaced all the springs, valves, and seals. I bought the parts before hand but I didn't like how the seats looked and I wanted it clean so it was easier for them to do it that for me to take another day on it. They also said it was slightly warped and they milled it down so I got my moneys worth out of the $200 something I spent there.
They also removed a broken manifold bolt in the bottom rear of the head and put a helicoil in. That temperature sensor in the back of the head on the early model ones is a PITA to get to without sitting on the damn engine once it is in the Jeep. I broke the stock one removing the engine, I got a bad one from O reilly, I broke the replacement one they gave me, then I said F it and got an aftermarket gauge with an aftermarket sender without the plastic clip at the top.
With synthetic oil the last 40k I had 0 sludge and the oil pump screen looked mint.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's awesome
I've been running 15-40 Rotella and a mopar filter in the zj since I've gotten it when I opened it up for the head gasket it was extremely clean and healthy in there.
And I will say, after having my head milled the zj runs amazing. I'm pretty sure the head gasket had been leaking for a very long time.
I've been running 15-40 Rotella and a mopar filter in the zj since I've gotten it when I opened it up for the head gasket it was extremely clean and healthy in there.
And I will say, after having my head milled the zj runs amazing. I'm pretty sure the head gasket had been leaking for a very long time.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
receptionist just said a 3' x 1' x 1" thick box just came that weighs 40lbs. I'm going to guess that my bumper kit has arrived, and that dirtbound is really good at packaging stuff lol
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output