Maryland Cherokee Club
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Honestly for JK i personally dont like the 07-11s at all. The 12+ Interior and motor and everything feel so much better. Early 12s may have head problems. They fixed that issue soon though. So late 12s and on are good. Personally i would just buy a new one if she can.
They do ride really nice.
They do ride really nice.
And thanks for the info
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Location: Forest Hill, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Then I would go with a 13 then. I do not believe there is any difference between the 13s and 14s
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Got it. I'm not against a new one if we find a deal on a leftover new '13/14, but used is the biggest probability due to price. I appreciate the help. Same goes for my little buddy
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Don't blame ya one bit. And if she can drive a stick. Get a stick. They got a much better feel to them then the autos. Though the hill assist bothers me.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Location: Hillsboro, OR
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Who knows...got a new one now...no biggie
So...I asked this in the lift and tire thread.......you guys think the Clayton long arm kits are worth the $2300 they charge? I'm looking at the 6.5 with Bilsteins, and SYE, and Toms Woods DS and I think the JCR 1 ton OTK steering kit...wanna put it on 33's
Anyone wanna take a guess at what gears might be in it...It's a 97 sport, 5spd, 8.25 rear (no ABS)
So...I asked this in the lift and tire thread.......you guys think the Clayton long arm kits are worth the $2300 they charge? I'm looking at the 6.5 with Bilsteins, and SYE, and Toms Woods DS and I think the JCR 1 ton OTK steering kit...wanna put it on 33's
Anyone wanna take a guess at what gears might be in it...It's a 97 sport, 5spd, 8.25 rear (no ABS)
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Who knows...got a new one now...no biggie
So...I asked this in the lift and tire thread.......you guys think the Clayton long arm kits are worth the $2300 they charge? I'm looking at the 6.5 with Bilsteins, and SYE, and Toms Woods DS and I think the JCR 1 ton OTK steering kit...wanna put it on 33's
Anyone wanna take a guess at what gears might be in it...It's a 97 sport, 5spd, 8.25 rear (no ABS)
Everyone I know that runs clayton, loves it. Sturdy arms with a removable cross member.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Only thing I would change is the steering kit. If coin is no issue go ORO uturn with PSC Hydro Assist. If you want to dial it back IRO crossover or Currie Lync, either will give you better feel than inverted T OTK/UTK setups. Just my 2c
Regearing to 4.10 is the next item you should consider.
Regearing to 4.10 is the next item you should consider.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Clayton stuff is nice. I'm converting mine to a 3 link from radius arms. Just not using Clayton's 3 link conversion stuff.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Only thing I would change is the steering kit. If coin is no issue go ORO uturn with PSC Hydro Assist. If you want to dial it back IRO crossover or Currie Lync, either will give you better feel than inverted T OTK/UTK setups. Just my 2c
Regearing to 4.10 is the next item you should consider.
Regearing to 4.10 is the next item you should consider.
And yea I'm not sure if Im just gonna eat the cost and buy a set of D44 axle assemblies from ECGS or build out the ones in it.....I only save about $1500 building them out over buying turn key axles, but if I build them out I still only have a d30 and 8.25" instead of D44's