Maryland Cherokee Club
#91
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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well it will be 6.5 in the front and 7.25 in the rear with 33s just so i can get over more stuff idk 4.5 just seems so small on the trails
#92
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
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I don't think you'll like being that high. It will prevent you from going off-camber when you need to and you increase your chances of rolling over. Consider doing a bit of wheelwell trimming - 35s will stuff no problem with minimal effort. There's a few guys around that do competition rock crawling on 37s with 3" of lift by just doing minor trimming and bumpstopping the right amount. It's all about how you set it up and what lines you pick when wheeling.
Hell, i wheel mine with the stock lift over things you wouldn't believe.
Hell, i wheel mine with the stock lift over things you wouldn't believe.
#93
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well i already bought most of the parts so i going to 6.5 and i will be doing some triming with the 33s i know a good amount of people with that size lift plus it will settle to be like a 5 inch away idk we will see what happens
#94
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L Straight six
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your doing that size lift just to fit 33's? You do realize that your lift does you little good without ground clearance at the diffs right? Only thing it will help is getting over a tall skinny hill which very rarely comes up in any of the wheeling I do... You wheeling on dirt hills or trying to climb snow banks or something? You can fit 35's -37's with a 5.5" long arm... 33's on a 6.5" would just look funny.
#95
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yeah man i know that im not lifting it to fit them ive had 34s on it now i just want 6.5 with 33s maybe 34s that way i can flex all the way out without ripping up the fenders o and i will be trimming the fenders plus its a little easyer on the axles
#96
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Can you go into a little more detail on this? I dont get what you mean. Unless you are saying that the smaller tires are easier on the axles. A lift should not affect them much, if at all.
#97
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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so i went muddin last night...anybody from carroll county if you know where carroll luthern is theres a big mud hole of the road down behind there...adams mill road
#98
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#99
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= less wear on the axels i know that the lift will not effect them thats all. Plus i just like the look of a 6.5 inch lift with 33s everyone likes somthing a little different thats what make this so much fun looking at other guys rigs ya know
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#100
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sorry about that but yes thats what i was trying to say smaller tire
= less wear on the axels i know that the lift will not effect them thats all. Plus i just like the look of a 6.5 inch lift with 33s everyone likes somthing a little different thats what make this so much fun looking at other guys rigs ya know![Shifty](https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/smilies/shifty.gif)
= less wear on the axels i know that the lift will not effect them thats all. Plus i just like the look of a 6.5 inch lift with 33s everyone likes somthing a little different thats what make this so much fun looking at other guys rigs ya know
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Well there ya go! More power to ya. I just didnt want you making an uninformed decision. But its your rig and you should build it how you want! Hope to see ya on the trails sometime
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#101
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Year: 1999
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not trying to say u are wrong bud but hey while we ae conversing what do you think about bigger bump stops i do understand why people get them seem to me just but a tire that fits with some fender trimming that way you can get all of your flex maybe thier is something i`m missing
#102
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they keep the tire from rubbing your fenders. It's the only thing keeping the tire from continuing upwards, so the amount is critical to the performance of your rig offroad. Too much and as you said you won't get full flex. Too little and you rub going over everything.
#103
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so basically its just for the guys that wanna run big tires that will basically rip the fender off if you flex all the way just trying to learn as i go
#104
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
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Become acquainted with the terms uptravel and downtravel. Downtravel (or "droop") is how far the axle can move downward before being limited, usually by either the shock absorber or straps, or the control arms. Uptravel is how far the axle can move upward. Generally you don't want a lot of uptravel unless you are desert racing. The bumpstops are there to limit this. Generally 3-4" is more than enough, especially since the more the axle moves up, the closer the body of your rig gets to the ground/rocks/etc.
This also means the higher you go, the more you have to extend your bumpstops to compensate.
This also means the higher you go, the more you have to extend your bumpstops to compensate.
#105
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Become acquainted with the terms uptravel and downtravel. Downtravel (or "droop") is how far the axle can move downward before being limited, usually by either the shock absorber or straps, or the control arms. Uptravel is how far the axle can move upward. Generally you don't want a lot of uptravel unless you are desert racing. The bumpstops are there to limit this. Generally 3-4" is more than enough, especially since the more the axle moves up, the closer the body of your rig gets to the ground/rocks/etc.
This also means the higher you go, the more you have to extend your bumpstops to compensate.
This also means the higher you go, the more you have to extend your bumpstops to compensate.