Maryland Cherokee Club
03-04-2012, 02:30 PM
Senior Member
What parts do I need?
The guy that posted this has not been on since 2007. Do I get what he suggest here? This may sound silly, but am I buying the parts for the 94 head 0630 or the 2000 0331?
As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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03-04-2012, 02:40 PM
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Jon-its always difficult to lose your best friend, godspeed to him, and you need to be strong for him--he wouldnt have had it any other way,and he is now,---in a bettter place..
my family prays for you and yours
my family prays for you and yours
03-04-2012, 03:18 PM
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The guy that posted this has not been on since 2007. Do I get what he suggest here? This may sound silly, but am I buying the parts for the 94 head 0630 or the 2000 0331?
As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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It is actually the 0721 head off a 94. I verified the casting numbers last night. The adapter is still necessary and still works.
03-04-2012, 04:14 PM
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Engine: Renix 4.0
Good god. Trails road is awesome. And im not trying to take attention away from your loss pudgy... im sorry for your loss...
03-04-2012, 04:26 PM
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Pudgy, its rough losing a friend, we are all here for support. I am sure he is playing fetch in the mighty dog park. All the best to you and your family.
03-04-2012, 04:26 PM
Senior Member
I forgot to post this part
.........Mike sent this yesterday exhaust manifold adapter, a head gasket and valve cover gasket.
I did a search for a exhaust manifold adapter and I can't find this part
.........Mike sent this yesterday exhaust manifold adapter, a head gasket and valve cover gasket.I did a search for a exhaust manifold adapter and I can't find this part
03-04-2012, 04:30 PM
Senior Member
03-04-2012, 04:35 PM
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The guy that posted this has not been on since 2007. Do I get what he suggest here? This may sound silly, but am I buying the parts for the 94 head 0630 or the 2000 0331?
As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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As a result of my 0331 head cracking and all that stuff that we all know about, I made an adapter plate for myself so that I could use an 0630 head with my stock '01 exhaust system.
My Jeep - 2001 XJ Limited 4.0
My Exhaust - 2 cast manifolds w/ 2 pre-cats and 4 Oxygen sensors.
For those in doubt, if you have the 0331 head and the exhaust described above, your exhaust manifolds will absolutely NOT cover the exhaust ports in the 0630 head. I can't comment on other exhaust systems, but is suspect that if you're changing from any 0331 head and you have a stock exhaust, you are probably going to have an issue.
If you're like me, you don't want to replace the 0331 with another 0331, but you also don't want to replace your stock exhaust just because of the exhaust port issue in the 0630 head. This is why I made myself this adapter plate - to solve this problem. It gets sandwiched between the head and intake/exhaust to effectively block to portion of the 0630 exhaust ports that aren't covered by the stock exhaust. The stack-up goes like this:
0630 Head
0630 Intake Exhaust Gasket
Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket
Stock Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Also, the 0630 head doesn't have the standoff's to support the ignition rail. I bent up some aluminum brackets that support the rail from the valve cover studs. I'll sell those too if people want them.
$150 - 0630 Exhaust/Intake Adapter Plate
$25 - Ignition Rail Brackets with all mounting hardware. I can have these black anodized for additional cost if you're concerned about calling attention to them, or if you just want them to look cool. I'll have to check, but I think I can get it done for cheap money.
Neccessary Additional Parts to do the swap (meaning that you need to get these yourself)
- 0630 Head (duh)
- 0630 Head Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $50
- 0630 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (I used OEM gasket from '98 XJ) - approx. $15
Kinda optional parts
- 0331 Intake/Exhaust Gasket (mine was okay so I re-used it, I'v been told not to do this though. Mine seems to be fine)
- Cylinder Head Bolts (I didn't bother - FSM says that they are okay to re-use once)
- Valve Cover Gasket (I replaced, but stuck with the re-usable kind from the 0331 head)
- Thermostat + Thermostat Gasket - approx. $7
Here's some other tips if you're starting with a junk yard 0630
- Take it to a machine shop, check for flatness, valve seat condition and cracks
- Valve Lapping Compound (if you didn't have the shop do a valve job and you're there anyway, you might as well lap them, I did)
- Valve Stem Seals - 6 intake + 6 exhuast (I used OEM from '98 XJ)
If you want a complete swap kit (including all/any of the OEM stuff), tack on $10 plus the OEM cost of the items you want, and I'll round it all up and send it in one kit for you. So the price will be $185 + OEM items.
Lastly - The only other thing (that I can think of right now) that you need to watch for is the Temp Sensor Plug - the 0630 head has a threaded hole near the firewall end of the casting for a coolant sensor (or something). Luckily for me, the head I used had the sensor busted off, but the threaded portion was still in the head, plugging the hole. So, I don't know what the thread is, but you still need to watch for this on yours.
Luckily for you, I'v been through this all now (mine went at 93K) and made a print of the adapter when I was making my plate. I even have some inventory of the parts ready to ship now.
-Mike
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03-04-2012, 04:49 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lost my best friend on four legs today. He was such a good boy.
Attachment 99162
Jimmy I won't make it up today. I'm sure you understand. If any of you pray I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys.
Attachment 99162
Jimmy I won't make it up today. I'm sure you understand. If any of you pray I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys.
03-04-2012, 04:50 PM
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Year: 1999
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Sorry to hear about your dog Pudgy, always so hard losing a long time companion, I went through it a few years ago with my Doberman Blackie. I'm actually looking for another Dobie pup now.
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!
03-04-2012, 04:54 PM
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Engine: 4.0
Sorry to hear about your dog Pudgy, always so hard losing a long time companion, I went through it a few years ago with my Doberman Blackie. I'm actually looking for another Dobie pup now.
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!
A long screwdriver to re-center the oil pump is your friend here. I have learned these lessons well in the past my friend, on two different Jeeps. I can reset the distributor/pump in my sleep now...lol
Glad to here it's fixed.
Now mine is knocking....but no visible signs of trouble.
03-04-2012, 04:56 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Long day today...
Met up with frosty and Stevo to work on Mike's Jeep. Got lucky, turned out to be the distributor shaft, had almost 1/16"" of play in it. Oil pan was free of metal, and oil pump lift screen was also clear. After 3 attempts to get the distributor in, she ran, and purred like a kitten
Glad to get out from underneath his jeep, LCA bracket kept smackin me in me head
Met up with frosty and Stevo to work on Mike's Jeep. Got lucky, turned out to be the distributor shaft, had almost 1/16"" of play in it. Oil pan was free of metal, and oil pump lift screen was also clear. After 3 attempts to get the distributor in, she ran, and purred like a kitten
Glad to get out from underneath his jeep, LCA bracket kept smackin me in me head
03-04-2012, 04:58 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: MoCo, Maryland
Posts: 500
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by Tattookid85
Can everyone in the Maryland section post pictures of their Cherokee if they have 4.5" of lift thanks
This is a 4.5" lift
03-04-2012, 04:59 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elkton, Maryland
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sorry to hear about your dog Pudgy, always so hard losing a long time companion, I went through it a few years ago with my Doberman Blackie. I'm actually looking for another Dobie pup now.
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!
On another note it was a long day of learning what not to do today LOL. Dropped the oil pan and we couldn't get it out. Ended up dropping the tie rod and track bar and pulling it out the front. Once we got that out we inspected the main bearings and everything looked good so we started digging further. Found there was about 1/16" of play between the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor and the camshaft. Looks like the bushing the drive gear rode on was gone and that was more than likely the metal I saw in the drain pan. So to Pep Boys we went for a new oil pump, synthetic oil and distributor. Got back to the shop and put the new pump in, fit the new oil pan gasket, put the oil pan on (one screw in front was stripped gotta tap it and put a new screw in it tomorrow) filled her up w oil and moved on to the distributor. We didn't really take the care to remove the distributor properly and make sure we didn't screw up the timing. Put the new distrib on and it started but was running RELLY rough. I knew the timing was off. After a few guesses as to how much we were off we finally put in a call to Dukie. Long story short we put the engine at TDC (I broke the #1 cylinder plug wire getting it off) we reinstalled the distrib and she wouldn't fire AT ALL! We were 180 degrees off, Mike turned the distrib I put it all back together (only my skinny long fingers could get the damn bolt started) went to start it and it still wouldn't fire (WTF???) hahaha my dumb *** forgot the reconnect the coil wire I pulled off to get that distrib bolt started. Mike hooked up the coil and she fired right up! Purring like a kitten now and no more knock! Thanks a million ptmike and Steve!