Maryland Cherokee Club
10-23-2011, 10:27 PM
#1441
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
Gonna give you boys a little tip, Regularly check your lug nuts. I almost lost a wheel at 60mph tonight, Jeep started thumping and clacking and shaking bad. I thought I had blown a U-joint, turned out 4 of my 5 lug nuts on my drivers front tire weren't even finger tight.
I didn't even touch them this weekend, I did the rear brakes. Guess the front end got jealous. I was slightly paranoid about lug nuts before, I think I'm going to start sleeping with a tire iron under my pillow now.
I didn't even touch them this weekend, I did the rear brakes. Guess the front end got jealous. I was slightly paranoid about lug nuts before, I think I'm going to start sleeping with a tire iron under my pillow now.
10-23-2011, 10:30 PM
#1442
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
10-23-2011, 10:30 PM
#1443
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Location: Elkton, Maryland
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i just need the plans (which are now provided) and the metal...
of course thats easier to do with money, which comes from working a steady job..
brush guard and slider/side steps (my gf says i have to provide a step for her if want to lift it any higher)
Which i want to build myself but with other people already doing it for on the cheap... who knows...
anybody up for making a set?
of course thats easier to do with money, which comes from working a steady job..
brush guard and slider/side steps (my gf says i have to provide a step for her if want to lift it any higher)
Which i want to build myself but with other people already doing it for on the cheap... who knows...
anybody up for making a set?
)I've got a 14" chopsaw and welder that you can borrow. I'm buying a prefabbed pre runner bar for my bumper build, just not worth it for me to buy a tubing bender.
As far as the brush guard, I would get some measurements and find something close at the JY, brackets can be fabbed up pretty easy
Crossing my fingers that you get that call this week....
10-23-2011, 10:31 PM
#1444
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Got me when we went out. Bohnett (I think) caught one of mine about to fall off, and I had a couple others that were finger-tight. That shouldn't happen the day after changing tires and torquing them all to 75, though...
10-23-2011, 10:35 PM
#1446
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm all for learning. Thing is even if I had the equipment, I couldn't do it at my apt. I have to go to 96xjclassic's house to do anything louder than a cordless drill.
I stand by my belief that lift and sliders are pointless if you put on nerf bars/steps. Make a step ladder out of 2x4 and she can retrieve it from the back every time she wants to get in. Then everybody's happy right?
I stand by my belief that lift and sliders are pointless if you put on nerf bars/steps. Make a step ladder out of 2x4 and she can retrieve it from the back every time she wants to get in. Then everybody's happy right?
10-23-2011, 10:35 PM
#1447
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Location: Linthicum, Md
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
As far as the brush guard, I would get some measurements and find something close at the JY, brackets can be fabbed up pretty easy
Sliders can be extended out and angled up towards the door. Gives you a step and protects the lower part of the door. BUT, I agree that it does have the potential of getting hung up....
Crossing my fingers that you get that call this week....
Sliders can be extended out and angled up towards the door. Gives you a step and protects the lower part of the door. BUT, I agree that it does have the potential of getting hung up....
Crossing my fingers that you get that call this week....
even if its just a lil lip hanging up that can get a couple toes on it to help
she also wants me to put grab handles on the outside for her
yeah, i found a brush for like 350 shipped so, its hard more to want to build it..
heres
X me crossing too..
Last edited by DocOrng XJ; 10-23-2011 at 10:39 PM.
10-23-2011, 10:37 PM
#1448
::CF Moderator::
http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/produ...cat=250&page=1 < these are the ones I have sitting in my shed. I got mine much cheaper as he was having a "scratch and dent sale" and the one tube as a tiny dent in it. *if he hadn't circled the dent, I'd never have found it*
I used to be an airgun Jockey back in the day, and yes I could use a torque wrench.
Make her a hillbilly step, take a piece of seat belt and tie a loop around the front seat mount. Want to get in, open the door flip the loop out use it as a step.
I used to be an airgun Jockey back in the day, and yes I could use a torque wrench.
Make her a hillbilly step, take a piece of seat belt and tie a loop around the front seat mount. Want to get in, open the door flip the loop out use it as a step.
Last edited by Veeb0rg; 10-23-2011 at 10:39 PM.
10-23-2011, 10:39 PM
#1449
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
10-23-2011, 10:41 PM
#1450
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Example, ZJ bumpers run up to $900. I got the steel for free, and fitted half of mine together in less than 3 hours...
10-23-2011, 10:41 PM
#1451
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'll double check when I get off work, but I thought my Haynes said 75. Not arguing with you; just going off what I think I read.
10-23-2011, 10:45 PM
#1453
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Lug nut torque specs are progressive - usually like 80-100-120. Meaning torque all to 80, then 100, then 120. This ensure proper seating, especially if you're running aftermarket wheels that may not exactly be perfectly hubcentric.
10-23-2011, 10:48 PM
#1454
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
thats what im talking about
plus id want some frame rail stiffners..
then yeah i would build for sure, id always be fabbing something even if i didnt need it
lol