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Old 02-16-2015 | 11:05 AM
  #15421  
War Eagle's Avatar
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by McGeeXJ
I pulled into a gas station last night, right as i parked the jeep my check gauges light came on and it was overheating. I shut it off and ran in for a minute and came back out to a ton of coolant under the jeep. It looks like it all came from the over flow tank, and it was leaking somewhere at the top of the radiator on the battery side. It was too cold to inspect further at the gas station. I only lived a few miles down the road, so I drove home and it seemed ok. It ran hotter than usual, but stayed around 210.

Damn jeep...
this cold snap killed my radiator and now i am jeep-less until the one i ordered gets here:/
Old 02-16-2015 | 11:09 AM
  #15422  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
this cold snap killed my radiator and now i am jeep-less until the one i ordered gets here:/
it isn't that hard to replace the rad. I would change the clamps to hose clamp style instead of spring clamps if u haven't done already
Old 02-16-2015 | 12:07 PM
  #15423  
Wolfmann's Avatar
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From: Chester County, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by McGeeXJ
I pulled into a gas station last night, right as i parked the jeep my check gauges light came on and it was overheating. I shut it off and ran in for a minute and came back out to a ton of coolant under the jeep. It looks like it all came from the over flow tank, and it was leaking somewhere at the top of the radiator on the battery side. It was too cold to inspect further at the gas station. I only lived a few miles down the road, so I drove home and it seemed ok. It ran hotter than usual, but stayed around 210. Damn jeep...
thats what happened to 2 of my stock rads, blew a crack in the top near the upper hose, thats when i bought csf triple tube full brass tanks and all rad for $200 shipped
Old 02-17-2015 | 01:49 PM
  #15424  
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From: Philadelphia pa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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What is the difficulty of changing my ring and pinion and are new bearings needed?
Old 02-17-2015 | 01:58 PM
  #15425  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Tomlarson89
What is the difficulty of changing my ring and pinion and are new bearings needed?
cheaper to get another axle from the junkyard.
Old 02-17-2015 | 03:48 PM
  #15426  
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Tomlarson89
What is the difficulty of changing my ring and pinion and are new bearings needed?
I have a HP Dana 30 I'll sell you on the cheap
Old 02-17-2015 | 04:07 PM
  #15427  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I would change the clamps to hose clamp style instead of spring clamps if u haven't done already
We need to have a discussion about this hypothesis..
Old 02-17-2015 | 04:17 PM
  #15428  
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
I have a HP Dana 30 I'll sell you on the cheap
yo. I need a d30. How much is it
Old 02-17-2015 | 04:17 PM
  #15429  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
We need to have a discussion about this hypothesis..
let's discuss then.
Old 02-17-2015 | 06:08 PM
  #15430  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
let's discuss then.
I understand the factory spring clamps are superior to hose clamps.
Although a pain to remove and install, they provide even clamping and will not deform the hose or crush the pipe underneath.
Hose clamps when used correctly, compress unevenly and the screw portion of the band can be a pinch point on each side.
When used incorrectly they pinch and break the hose and can collapse the pipe underneath (guilty).
Old 02-18-2015 | 06:26 AM
  #15431  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I understand the factory spring clamps are superior to hose clamps. Although a pain to remove and install, they provide even clamping and will not deform the hose or crush the pipe underneath. Hose clamps when used correctly, compress unevenly and the screw portion of the band can be a pinch point on each side. When used incorrectly they pinch and break the hose and can collapse the pipe underneath (guilty).
sometimes it is positioned in such way it's awkward to put a plier anywhere and u end up taking more parts off than necessary just to take the hose off.

I replaced radiators on four of my jeeps total in the past. Used hose clamps instead and didn't have problems since. Although I do agree with some of the points U made. It's up to the person who is the working's discretion as to how much to torque down the hose clamps.
Old 02-18-2015 | 07:34 AM
  #15432  
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From: Lancaster, PA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I'll throw in my two cents. The spring clamps can be a PITA to get to but I do like that they are a no-brainer in that you don't have to worry about over-tightening them and I've never had one leak. The screw clamps can wear out or bend causing them to slip when you try to tighten them, usually as a result of over-tightening in the first place. That said I always carry a few extra screw clamps which are really handy since they can be used on any size hose and can even be connected end to end if you're in a bind.
Old 02-18-2015 | 11:04 AM
  #15433  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
yo. I need a d30. How much is it
make me an offer!
Old 02-18-2015 | 11:15 AM
  #15434  
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PMed YA
Old 02-18-2015 | 05:30 PM
  #15435  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Anyone got a pair of WJ front lower control arms?


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