1989 Cherokee 2dr restoration
#16
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0 i6
I'm trying to be a little more organized, to I have started moving front the back to the front on rust work. I'm done with the rear quarters and cargo area floor. I welded in a new piece where the gas filler neck goes through the frame.
It's not pretty, but it will work. I notice there is a huge gap, should I be worried about dirt and water ingress? This is way up beside the gas tank, and there in also the factory skid plate going over it.
I cleaned up the surface rust underneath with my new die grinder and it immediately became my favorite tool ever. I coated everything with Fluid Film including inside the frame rails in the rear.
The black stuff it the factory undercoating. I also have no rear sway bar, factory skid plates, and recovery hooks. Does anyone know if this means I have the "Upcountry" package? I've heard of it, but I don't really know what it means.
It's not pretty, but it will work. I notice there is a huge gap, should I be worried about dirt and water ingress? This is way up beside the gas tank, and there in also the factory skid plate going over it.
I cleaned up the surface rust underneath with my new die grinder and it immediately became my favorite tool ever. I coated everything with Fluid Film including inside the frame rails in the rear.
The black stuff it the factory undercoating. I also have no rear sway bar, factory skid plates, and recovery hooks. Does anyone know if this means I have the "Upcountry" package? I've heard of it, but I don't really know what it means.
#17
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
It could and I am going with you do.
Tough to tell for sure but your bump stops look longer which they are with the Up Country Suspension.
But the real tell is see that bracket between the bump stop and the uni-body?
Those are only found on Up Country Suspension Jeeps.
Now there is always a chance that somebody was real thorough in duplicating one but.....
Tough to tell for sure but your bump stops look longer which they are with the Up Country Suspension.
But the real tell is see that bracket between the bump stop and the uni-body?
Those are only found on Up Country Suspension Jeeps.
Now there is always a chance that somebody was real thorough in duplicating one but.....
#18
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0 i6
It could and I am going with you do.
Tough to tell for sure but your bump stops look longer which they are with the Up Country Suspension.
But the real tell is see that bracket between the bump stop and the uni-body?
Those are only found on Up Country Suspension Jeeps.
Now there is always a chance that somebody was real thorough in duplicating one but.....
Tough to tell for sure but your bump stops look longer which they are with the Up Country Suspension.
But the real tell is see that bracket between the bump stop and the uni-body?
Those are only found on Up Country Suspension Jeeps.
Now there is always a chance that somebody was real thorough in duplicating one but.....
Couple questions: Does anyone know the part numbers or where I can buy leaf springs and coils that will give me that 1 inch of lift that the upcountry option had? Or specs, like spring rate and free arch? Also, what is the largest tire you can fit without interference with the upcountry set up?
Thank you all for reading and for the help.
#19
Junior Member
I bought my upcountry springs and coils on amazon cause they seemed to be the best price. The leaf springs were the Dorman 97-547 and the coils were MOOG CC782. Both seem to be holding up well... The rear springs seem to be giving me a little over an inch of lift though.. maybe it's cause they haven't settled yet? I don't mind the slight rake though as it helps with gas mileage. Tire wise I reckon you could probably fit 30s on that setup... if you wanna be extra safe though you could go with 29s. I have 31s on my 2 inch lift and it only rubs some of the plastic on the front a little.
#20
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I don't know if they are still available but I was able to purchase some a few years back that I just got on the Jeep this year.
My '00 is not an Up Country one and I haven't done the front yet.
They were pretty expensive and they don't come with bushings on top of that.
And I bought all Mopar parts for everything else back there too.
As far as the coils I have read that they really don't take a beating.
And when you think about it when was the last time you saw an XJ sagging in the front.
I am betting you do the rear and be good to go.
While I would like to be all official and have real Up Country coils up front I am going to probably use a spacer if I ever get to it.
Buddy of mine duplicated one on his wife's Jeep using Crown parts and said a 1.75" spacer leveled her out nicely.
And since my Jeep is a DD....
I do have a reproduction of an Up Country Suspension sticker on my Jeep though.
LOL.
My '00 is not an Up Country one and I haven't done the front yet.
They were pretty expensive and they don't come with bushings on top of that.
And I bought all Mopar parts for everything else back there too.
As far as the coils I have read that they really don't take a beating.
And when you think about it when was the last time you saw an XJ sagging in the front.
I am betting you do the rear and be good to go.
While I would like to be all official and have real Up Country coils up front I am going to probably use a spacer if I ever get to it.
Buddy of mine duplicated one on his wife's Jeep using Crown parts and said a 1.75" spacer leveled her out nicely.
And since my Jeep is a DD....
I do have a reproduction of an Up Country Suspension sticker on my Jeep though.
LOL.
#21
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0 i6
I bought my upcountry springs and coils on amazon cause they seemed to be the best price. The leaf springs were the Dorman 97-547 and the coils were MOOG CC782. Both seem to be holding up well... The rear springs seem to be giving me a little over an inch of lift though.. maybe it's cause they haven't settled yet? I don't mind the slight rake though as it helps with gas mileage. Tire wise I reckon you could probably fit 30s on that setup... if you wanna be extra safe though you could go with 29s. I have 31s on my 2 inch lift and it only rubs some of the plastic on the front a little.
I don't know if they are still available but I was able to purchase some a few years back that I just got on the Jeep this year.
My '00 is not an Up Country one and I haven't done the front yet.
They were pretty expensive and they don't come with bushings on top of that.
And I bought all Mopar parts for everything else back there too.
As far as the coils I have read that they really don't take a beating.
And when you think about it when was the last time you saw an XJ sagging in the front.
I am betting you do the rear and be good to go.
While I would like to be all official and have real Up Country coils up front I am going to probably use a spacer if I ever get to it.
Buddy of mine duplicated one on his wife's Jeep using Crown parts and said a 1.75" spacer leveled her out nicely.
And since my Jeep is a DD....
I do have a reproduction of an Up Country Suspension sticker on my Jeep though.
LOL.
My '00 is not an Up Country one and I haven't done the front yet.
They were pretty expensive and they don't come with bushings on top of that.
And I bought all Mopar parts for everything else back there too.
As far as the coils I have read that they really don't take a beating.
And when you think about it when was the last time you saw an XJ sagging in the front.
I am betting you do the rear and be good to go.
While I would like to be all official and have real Up Country coils up front I am going to probably use a spacer if I ever get to it.
Buddy of mine duplicated one on his wife's Jeep using Crown parts and said a 1.75" spacer leveled her out nicely.
And since my Jeep is a DD....
I do have a reproduction of an Up Country Suspension sticker on my Jeep though.
LOL.
#22
Junior Member
I believe so but I would call the manufacturer (Dorman and MOOG for example)... give them the part number and your Jeep specs and they should be able to tell you if they fit. It's probably on their websites as well.
#23
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I am pretty sure they are all the same and checking my '88 to '90 parts catalog I found this:
5200 2392 Heavy Duty, Coded LT
Been my experience that the letters at the end don't mean anything and I think are more a year designation then anything else.
The only time that I know of where it does matter is with cruise control switches in '97 and up.
Part numbers are the same, letters are different, and the forums are littered with posts that '97 ad '98 won't work in '99 to '01.
And vice versa.
Something about ohms I believe.
5200 2392 Heavy Duty, Coded LT
Been my experience that the letters at the end don't mean anything and I think are more a year designation then anything else.
The only time that I know of where it does matter is with cruise control switches in '97 and up.
Part numbers are the same, letters are different, and the forums are littered with posts that '97 ad '98 won't work in '99 to '01.
And vice versa.
Something about ohms I believe.
#24
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0 i6
Ok, cool. I think I am going to go with the Dorman 97547 packs for the rear.
I have a set of new variable rate coils that came with the Jeep I think I'll use. No idea if they are heavy duty, but I guess I'll just install them and see.
The Jeep also has new shocks installed just before I bought it. It seems to make sense just to get the leaf springs and not waste a perfectly good set of coils and shocks. It will also save me $1,500 on getting a lift kit.
I can always upgrade in the future if I have the money and want to.
I have a set of new variable rate coils that came with the Jeep I think I'll use. No idea if they are heavy duty, but I guess I'll just install them and see.
The Jeep also has new shocks installed just before I bought it. It seems to make sense just to get the leaf springs and not waste a perfectly good set of coils and shocks. It will also save me $1,500 on getting a lift kit.
I can always upgrade in the future if I have the money and want to.
#25
Junior Member
You are doing a great job and your welds look fine. Your goal should be strength and sealing, not a beauty contest!
I went through the same process on my 94 Country 4 door. It has all held up well. I did have to do partial rocker replacements too.
I have a 2 door in the queue that will get the same treatment. they are great vehicles. The biggest battle with lifts is defeating any wheel wobble at speed. Some lifts decrease caster and cause problems.
Good luck and keep it up!
Seabee
I went through the same process on my 94 Country 4 door. It has all held up well. I did have to do partial rocker replacements too.
I have a 2 door in the queue that will get the same treatment. they are great vehicles. The biggest battle with lifts is defeating any wheel wobble at speed. Some lifts decrease caster and cause problems.
Good luck and keep it up!
Seabee
#26
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Renix 4.0 i6
You are doing a great job and your welds look fine. Your goal should be strength and sealing, not a beauty contest!
I went through the same process on my 94 Country 4 door. It has all held up well. I did have to do partial rocker replacements too.
I have a 2 door in the queue that will get the same treatment. they are great vehicles. The biggest battle with lifts is defeating any wheel wobble at speed. Some lifts decrease caster and cause problems.
Good luck and keep it up!
Seabee
I went through the same process on my 94 Country 4 door. It has all held up well. I did have to do partial rocker replacements too.
I have a 2 door in the queue that will get the same treatment. they are great vehicles. The biggest battle with lifts is defeating any wheel wobble at speed. Some lifts decrease caster and cause problems.
Good luck and keep it up!
Seabee
Yeah, if I did a lift I would want to do it right. I'm not interested in doing a budget boost or anything like that. I want this thing to gain value as I work on it not lose value. I would get OME with adjustable track bar, control arms, etc. Right now I think it's better to focus on other stuff and save the $1500.
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