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While I had the leaf springs and shocks out I figured it would be easier to work on the exhaust. I needed a catalytic converter and the muffler and tail pipe had holes. Happily I was able to get the flange nuts off at the catalytic converter end without breaking any of the four fasteners. With penetrating fluid and carefully working the nuts loose/tight I did not even need to use heat. That was nice as two of the fasteners are studs pressed into the front pipe flange and I didn’t want to replace the front pipe at this time. From the flange rearward everything was welded together but I was able to remove it as a complete assembly. If you have leaf springs out replacing the exhaust at the same time is easier.
New and old side by side.
when i get time im gonna have to tackle that. I'd imagine mine is original on my 93 and the cat most likely has been through some hell. What would be the best brand? Still relatively new to the jeep world.
Last edited by Cordless telephone; 03-21-2020 at 12:44 AM.
After doing much research on the approach to take on a replacement exhaust system I concluded that there were few OE or direct fit options available. Chrysler OE P/N 52007220 (up to 1-14-92) and Chrysler/Dynomax cat back E0017340 are discontinued. I did find Mopar value line P/N E0022502 muffler/tailpipe assembly available but for over $130
I considered going to larger diameter pipe and less restrictive muffler but research shows that you gain very little in performance and that typically comes at higher RPM. The 4.0 engine is not a high performance, high RPM engine so any advantage would be small. Smaller diameter pipe keeps exhaust velocities higher which can be an advantage in scavenging exhaust and improving lower RPM performance. There is also not much extra room for a larger diameter tail pipe to prevent interference. Performance muffler options are louder and I don’t need that.
I decided I would go for exact fit aftermarket parts for cost and simplicity. With the rear suspension off I could not readily take it somewhere if I needed custom pipe bending or welding to make universal parts work so that was another incentive for exact fit parts. Below is what I used. Some part numbers after 1992 are different so check against your year. I was satisfied with quality and fit. I did not have to cut any pipes. My setup with slip fit connections, clamps that don’t deform the pipe and high temperature anti-seize should allow for easier removal should substitution be desired later.
* Catalytic Converter: Magnaflow 23229, direct fit, federal emissions, with flange to front pipe
* Muffler: Walker 22502 Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel, direct fit, center in offset out. Note: make sure description says it is stainless. I saw some lower cost versions that may not be
* Tail Pipe: Walker 45944 for 86 to 92, 2.25 pipe. Note: not mandrel formed
* Clamps: Walker 35413 (1), Mega Clamp 33975 (2) for use at muffler
* Converter flange hardware: 3/8-16 flange lock nut (4), 3/8-16x1 flange bolt (2)
* Tail Pipe Hanger: Mopar 52002794, 84-96 (or Walker 35819
* Anti-seize compound: Loctite LB 8023 * Heat shield: Heatshield Products 177101, enough for muffler and converter
I don’t believe factory heat shields were on the earlier XJ’s but I decided to add a shield to the top of the muffler and converter to reduce cabin heat. The Heatshield Products part I used has high temperature woven silica insulation bonded to metal foil. There is good installation information at their web site. I ordered additional 20 inch stainless steel ties from my local Napa store, P/N 770-9334.
As I worked on the front suspension I identified that the driver side tie rod end had a damaged boot. If I was going to change the tie rod end this would be the time to upgrade the long driver side tie rod to the heavier ZJ Grand Cherokee V8 tie rod used from 93 to 98. It is a larger diameter rod with a more robust adjuster sleeve and is a direct fit into an XJ. The drag link between the pitman arm and passenger side is basically the same between the Grand Cherokee and Cherokee so there is no performance improvement. My existing drag link end joints seem tight and in good shape so I am not replacing that assembly.
Moog parts are widely available but reported to be of a lower quality compared to the premium Napa Chassis Parts line. Napa also has a lower cost Proformer line, possible the same as Moog parts. I read reviews that the Moog tie rod came without protective coating. My son purchased Moog parts for the white 91 and confirmed the tie rod was either poorly painted on not painted and he had to paint it.
The premium Napa parts were available in my area the same day with no shipping cost so I went with the better, more expensive local Napa parts. For those that care about where parts are made the Napa tie rod end and adjuster link are from USA, the tie rod is from Taiwan. The tie rod came well protected with a sleeve on the threaded end and it was bagged and boxed. The tie rod coating is thick and looks durable. The joints have grease fittings. All threads were well formed. Below are parts I used along with OEM and Moog part numbers.
Long tie rod: OEM 52037996; Moog DS1312; Napa premium 2696085
Tie Rod End: OEM 52005739; Moog ES3096L; Napa premium 2692788
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve: Moog ES2079S; Napa premium 2691134
Note: if you going with a heavy duty JKS track bar where the tapered hole in the driver side chassis bracket must be drilled to enlarge it you will want to do that before installing new tie rod parts. Otherwise you will likely have to drop the tie rod to obtain clear access.
I believe you made a good choice with the Napa NCP line parts and not buying the PCC line ones.
And not just cause I work there. LOL.
I have used the NCP track bar, front and rear sway bar links with bushings on my Jeep so far.
Anything else of that type with the exception of ball joints I will use the same.
If I need ball joints then I will probably go with the Spicers.
The suspension kit came with a JKS adjustable track bar. The track bar maintains proper centering of the front axle relative to the chassis as the suspension flexes. An adjustable track bar allows for precise adjustment when a lift is in place. The track bar that came with my XJ looks to be factory original even though it had a 5+ inch lift on the front when I got it. That would not have been good for proper alignment.
The JKS track bar is a quality heavy duty replacement that is made in the USA. It is zinc plated and power coated for corrosion and debris protection. Urethane bushings come installed. It is adjustable by rotating the axle mount end. The disadvantage to this adjustment approach is that it can’t be readjusted when installed - one end has to be disconnected. I have seen at least one brand that uses an adjusting sleeve similar to what is used on tie rods. That probably sacrifices strength and rigidity but might be handy.
Before installing the track bar the chassis and front axle must be accurately centered side to side. This is done on level ground with full weight on the suspension. Initially I had an offset of about ½ inch. I measured from the spring cushion to an outer tire block. After jostling the body, moving the steering wheel side to side and using a ratchet strap the best I could get was about ¼ inch off. I have the sway bar off. I decided to let it set for a day or two as this was the first time weight had been on the new suspension components and some settling might occur. I probably need a heavier duty ratchet strap. I will verify I don’t have much runout on the tires and see if I can loosen the lower control arm bolts a bit. I didn’t expect this part to be that hard.
Last edited by third coast; 03-30-2020 at 01:47 PM.
I did not find what I thought was great info on how best to do some of this, especially aligning the body to frame necessary before the track bar installation is complete. Here is what worked for me:
Start with all tires at the same pressure. The vehicle should be level, tires on the ground with full weight on suspension. Check that both front wheels are pointed straight ahead.
If both tires do not point straight ahead an adjustment to the tie rod will be necessary. A laser level comes in handy but a laser pointer taped to a piece of wood or straight edge would work. I first placed the level horizontally across each rear tire and marked a spot on the garage door where the laser hit. I then moved to the front tires and using the laser level in a similar manner shot a point to the garage door. Adjust steering wheel and the tie rod so that the laser placed across each front tire marks a spot equal distant from the spot marked from the rear tires.
The JKS adjustable track bar instructions indicate the front axle must be perfectly aligned laterally with the chassis before completing installation. I started by turning the steering wheel back and forth and tightening a ratchet strap as needed to align body over the front axle. Relatively small movements in steering have a fairly significant effect in shifting the body side to side. I attached the ratchet strap between the passenger side frame and the lower control arm bracket on the driver side axle to help maintain the desired position of the chassis over the axle. To check for correct alignment on each side I measured from the coil spring insulator to a straight edge held vertically to the outside of the tire. Photo below. You can also measure to an outside edge of a tire block but on my tires there are different block sizes and one side has some uneven wear that made that approach doubtful.
Because of the long bolt on the JKS adjustable track bar that replaces the taper fit stud on the factory setup it is easiest to attach the new track bar to the chassis rail bracket first. Otherwise it is a pain to try to get the long bolt inserted through the track bar bushing and into the chassis bracket steel bushing. Adjust the track bar length until the bolt for the axle mount end aligns with the axle bracket. To make it easier to get the bolt inserted I had my wife wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while I maneuvered the bolt into place. After this check chassis to axle alignment again and make additional adjustments to track bar length as necessary.
Last edited by third coast; 04-01-2020 at 11:35 PM.
JKS quick disconnects were installed a few days ago. Disconnect kit model 2000 came with my suspension kit. I had to adjust it to the shortest length to get within the recommended range for the sway bar angle.
The front suspension work I plan on doing at this time is now done. A front end alignment is needed yet.
I need to decide if I am going to get fender flares, bumpers and bumper ends repainted now or wait. The flares are off now so that makes it easier. They are not terrible but paint has peeled or been damaged in a few small areas, especially on the plastic parts. Anyone know if the trim paint (dark silver) originally had clear coat on it as the body did?
I need to set this project to the side for a short while to catch up on other things. Another car needs brake work, another that has been in storage way too long that needs attention, house projects, and on and on.
I would paint the trim while it is off. You will thank yourself later. I would try to find a semi-gloss finish paint when you paint the trim. It didn't have a clear coat from the factory (I think) but it had a bit of a shine to it.
Although progress slowed as the weather turned nicer a few things have been accomplished and more started since my last update. I have some catching up to do in documenting these. Here is my experience with replacing the driver side mirror.The driver side (left hand) manual remote mirror adjustment control was not working properly as is the case on most side view mirrors of this vintage. It is typical that a break occurs in one or more of the cables that are used to adjust the mirror and hold it securely in position. A broken adjuster cable does not seem to be repairable and I found no one offering refurbishment of these mirrors. I have yet to find a good one in a salvage yard.
To replace the original mirror I purchased a Crown 55034121 for a bit over $80. There are not many options. They all look like they come from the same source. The Crown mirror is not a great replica of the OE design. Most disappointing is that it does not include the grommet that is part of the OE mirror. This grommet with three holes seals the cables where they go through the door. To reuse the original grommet I had to carefully cut the old grommet in three places with an X-Acto knife to remove it from the three cables and then insert it around the cables of the new mirror. I didn’t want to use caulk for concern it would clog up the adjustment cables. It would have been so easy for the manufacture to install a new grommet to ensure a water tight seal.
The next disappointment is that the locations on the mirror for the 3 mounting screws are not tapped – there are just holes with no threads. Really? The OE screws are not of the self-tapping type and no new screws came with the mirror. The OE screw on mine are 1/4-20. To properly tap the blind hole to the bottom to accommodate the length of the screw it is best to use a bottoming or plug tap. These are not common in standard tap sets. I purchased a Morse Cutting Tools 32701 set of three 1/4-20 taps that includes a taper tap, plug tap and bottom tap. You begin with the typical taper tap that allows the tap to easily start, then progress to the plug tap that cuts more complete threads deeper into the hole and finally the bottom tap that cuts full threads nearly to the bottom. This process should eliminate chances of breaking the metal boss for each mounting screw.
Finally the new mirror adjusting cable did not want to easily push into the mirror housing to get the proper length when assembled into the door. I used a tool to help force the cable to loop around inside the mirror housing to get the proper length. You need to do this before the mirror is mounted to the door.
When all was done the new mirror did adjust nicely and held the setting. There are some cosmetic differences between the OE and replacement mirror but I can live with those.
In the photo below the original mirror is on top with the grommet still in place.
I need to decide if I am going to get fender flares, bumpers and bumper ends repainted now or wait. The flares are off now so that makes it easier. They are not terrible but paint has peeled or been damaged in a few small areas, especially on the plastic parts. Anyone know if the trim paint (dark silver) originally had clear coat on it as the body did?.
An experienced body and paint guy that knows Jeeps indicated that fender flares and related plastic parts had clear coat from the factory. I have decided that I will get the fender flares and possibly the front bumper caps professionally repainted. The front bumper is in surprisingly good condition. I would like to do the rear bumper and caps at the same time but the rear bumper is proving extremely difficult to get off without damaging or cutting something in the process. There is very little room to access and turn the fasteners for the bumper to bracket or bracket to body. This Jeep has an aftermarket hitch which makes it more difficult. I wish I would have attempted this when the leaf springs and shackles were off as access to the front facing side of the bumper bracket to body bolts would have been easy. However I am not taking leaf springs down again. I may see if the hitch can be removed for better access to bumper bolts (of course removing the hitch is easy only if the bumper is off). If that does not work I will leave the rear bumper as is for now.
Last edited by third coast; 07-31-2020 at 01:30 PM.
I actually have the exact same model Cherokee and am bringing it back to life. I am doing this instead of buying a SxS for fun around the farm trails. I wont do anything as detailed as you, and it will be a little more of an off road directed build. I have never done a build thread before, so no way I'll match what you have done. But thank you for documenting with part numbers and product types. This will help me a ton and is excellent info!
I am way behind on updates. Although I took a bit of a break on working on the '91 over much of the summer the work I did focused mostly on the interior, especially cleaning to rid it of stale smoke odor and grime. I have cleaned every surface at least twice and that seems to have done the trick. No more smoke smell. I removed the seats, center floor console, some trim, door panels and just about anything else that would come out easily. The carpet, seats and door panels were cleaned with a commercial type carpet cleaner using the upholstery tool. I even used that on the headliner with good success by carefully holding the tool tight against the headliner material so as not to encourage the suction to separate the headliner material from the backing board. An auto interior professional told me it would not work but I figured I had nothing to lose. Fortunately the headliner had been replaced sometime before I pruchased it and was in good condition. It was a messy process with water dripping on me but it worked nicely.
When I removed the front seats and center console it was apparent how much gunk was hidden including coffee stains, ashes, dirt, burn marks and a large piece of a burned cigar. Surprised the previous owner had not set the interior on fire. As a bonus however I found an ignition key on a nice Jeep key ring stuck under the seat trim. Below is a photo after cleaning.
Last edited by third coast; 10-21-2020 at 12:48 PM.
03-21-2020 | 12:42 AM
