Well Damn those rings look sick, but how's the cowl hood working out for you is the temp pretty low?

 

The underhood temp is 15-30 degrees cooler at any given time then with the stock hood... You also don't get the temperature spikes for when you have it running and you turn the motor off to do something, then crank it back up about 10 minutes later. It used to be up around 245+ (depending on how hot it was before it was turned off) when that happened but now it stays about 220 or so.

 

That temp spike always bothered me. Since I've put hood vents from the 280z it's gotten a little better but they don't seem to vent as well as the LeBaron vents...which I have sitting in the garage waiting to be put on....

 

Well... It's been a while huh? I've just been too lazy to upload the pictures from my disc brake swap, ended up doing the swap the weekend I said I was going to do them back in March... but I finally uploaded the pictures and can post them.

The first thing I did was drill out the mounting plate holes to 27/64 so they would line up with the 8.25 stud holes.



Then just some reference pictures of the E brake lever.




Then I modified the E brake levers so i could bolt a cable clamp to them for the XJ's E-brake cable.









Now on to the install.
Got the Jeep in the Garage.


Took the old proportioning valve out (goldish) and installed the new one. (red)




Took the wheels off and the drums off.



Drained the diff fluid, took out the center pin, pushed the axles in, got the C-clips out, and pulled out the axle shafts.






Took off the backing plate bolts, disconnected the wheel cylinders, disconnected the E brake from the drum (lever and backing plate), pulled off the drum backing plate, and took the drum studs out.







Cleaned up the axle tube to get rid of old brake dust, etc. and then mounted the ZJ disc brake studs.


Test fitted the ZJ backing plate and then started to enlarge the center hole to go over the axle.




After enlarging the hole I installed the backing plate with locktight.




Then I added the E brake shoes and connected the E brake cable.







Then I took out the XJ wheel studs and replaced them with the ZJ studs.



You can see the difference. ZJ left, XJ right.



I decided to just go ahead and replace the axle seals since I was there... they didn't look bad and actually looked like they were already replace before.




Then I put the axle shafts back in, along with the C-clips, cross pin, diff cover and then put on the disc and did some adjusting on the E brake cables and star adjusters.



Then I put the brake pads in the caliper and put the caliper on.


Connected the brake lines, bled the brakes, and put the wheels back on. Also filled the diff with diff fluid.





Leftover Drum brake assemblies.




I can say that after having done this conversion and driving it roughly 3 months with them, they are worth it. Stops so much better now than it used to. Not to mention more stopping power, it helps a ton when pulling trailers like I do quite often. I would definitely do it again.

 

About a week ago I hit 190k


Then here's a picture from the 4th (and I still have the flag up, don't see a reason to take it down)


Then I finally got to install what my friend got me for my Birthday. Door projectors, or as this company calls it "Ghost Shadow Lights". They even come with a hole saw.

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First thing I did was RTV all the seems to make it water tight.


Here's what they look like against the wall.


Then I started to take the driver kick panel apart and I saw the stock trailer brake wire back against the fire wall. (saved for future reference)


Then I took the door apart.


Then measured out where I was going to put the projector and drilled the hole.




Then I put the projector in and ran all the wires to the under dash light.


Then I had to stop for the night but I got the driver side done.




The next day I started with the passenger side.


Drilled the hole and mounted the projector.



Cut a small piece of conduit and put over the part of the wire going through the door shell.


Then just ran the wires along the stock harness and through the door boot and inner kick panel grommet to the under dash light.






Then finally put some more stickers/decals on the Jeep... That I've had for months but I wanted to wait until it was warm so they'd stick to the glass.





Then I changed my oil.

Sorry for crappy pictures but both sides and night.



Then Friday night/Saturday morning I decided to go back in the pines and go through the trail. Didn't get a picture of it, but near the start I got up on three wheels and the passenger rear was about a foot and a half off the ground.

But here is just me parked on a hill at the end of the trail before turning around and going back.

 

Alright, well I've put off updating again, so I got a pretty big update to do now.

Anyway, to start off at the beginning of August I did some repairs to a friends van and got $200 for it. I decided it would be better to get some small things besides getting one bit thing. So I went and ordered some stuff on ebay. Got the LED's for my interior to change them from blue to green, new case for my alarm remote, some clear side markers, 5m of a green LED strip, and an add-on remote start.


The first thing I did (after I got everything in) was do my remote start. It wasn't as bad as I'd thought it would be, I already had a Python 460HP alarm that was installed years ago so I only used one wire off of that, which was the remote start wire. But yea, I did a little research before hand and It was pretty easy after that.



After I unboxed it I got the wiring code for a 00 XJ and went to town writing down where all the wires I thought I would need in both remote start install manuals (one I found online and the one that came with it) and also on the wiring sheet. Makes it a lot simpler when you actually go out to the vehicle.

The X's are what I didn't need, the check marks are from after I made the connections. The ? are for things I thought I might need.





This is the options the alarm can be programmed to do, the X's are on features that aren't available since it is just an add-on, the circles are the options I wanted and needed to change if need be.


After that i got to work prepping the wiring on the remote start box.




Then I got to work... Here is the Python alarm wiring that was already installed... I hate it, it looks like a rats nest... I didn't instal it and I kinda regret on doing it. But at the time I didn't know all the stuff I do now and a shop installed it. Need to actually fix it one day but It'll take about a day to figure it all out to see what they did and fix it and I've just been to lazy. And hey, it works so I don't want to mess it up.



Here's the remote start activation wire out of the Python (same color of the Avital activation input), I'm glad Python and Avital are both DEI product. That's probably what made this go so smoothly.


And here is the Avital 4003 all installed, 99.95% of the connections I soldered, rather do that then crimp connectors. But there were a few that I couldn't get to to solder so I had to deal with it.



(crimp connectors from when the shop installed the Python)


Tachometer wire


Hood pin wire (safety feature)


Neutral safety switch. Just ground the wire and then put the switch on it so if you take it somewhere you can turn it off so stop it from remote starting.



Then of course tighty everything up under the dash and stash the box somewhere.

Next I went ahead and did my dash lights (still have to do the strips under the dash on both sides.

Here's the T5 SMD 5050 LED lights and the 5m SMD 5050 LED strip.




Taking the dash apart




The old blue bulbs.


lights in the dash

Next the HVAC lights and switches.


Here is the principle of thing on using the T5 LED's in the HVAC and switches. (I showed it before)Take the incandescent one out of the bases, take the LED out of the base, and then wrap the legs of the LED on the base that either goes in the HVAC or the switches.






1/2 the HVAC done.


all the HVAC done.


Switch(s) done (the rear wiper broke so I had to get a new one)


Shifters done


Night shots




New wiper switch.





Have more to upload, but I'll do that later.

 

Well... It's been a while gain, about two months actually. Well, I guess I can post the other updates I planned last time.

Don't have anything new to add, other than I did get another vehicle (project). So updates on the XJ might slow, I want to

modify this new vehicle some, both to make it drivable and normal cosmetic modifications. It's a 1996 GMC Yukon 4 door 2wd.

Anyway, right after I did all my dash lights I started to modify the new marker lights I got.

The box(s).





The light housings.







On to the modifications. Heat the oven to 225°F and put one of the lights in the oven.


Set a timer for 5 minutes, then take the housing out.


After you take the housing out, slowly try to lift the lense off the housing. Use a small detail flat blade screwdriver if

necessary. BE PATIENT, you might need to re-heat the piece multiple times for it to come apart.

corner light (Take the light covers stickers off)






Bumper light (Take the back light socket adapters off)






Every lense off the housing.


Then I started to paint them black, primer first. (Left over from when I painted my front bumper)














Now reasonably time. Take the lense and put it on the housing and press together as much as you can, then re-hear at 225°F for 5

minutes and firmly press together. Should fully seat and then hold until you feel comfortable it is sealed.

 

Put the covers and socket adapters back on


Done.








Then I started to take apart my grill guard and took my old ones out and put these in.


Old side markers and bumper lights







VS. Side markers



New side markers





Old bumper lights.





VS. bumper lights




New bumper lights.



VS Both sides/ Passenger side old, Driver side new


















At night.








I love the way it turned out, better than i expected. Also a lot easier than I expected too. It might if hindered the light

output in the daylight, but at night it is actually brighter. I love the blacked out look that doesn't compromise light output.

They actually used to sell lights like this for the XJ, but I can't to find them anymore and if i did they where about $80+ and

these where $37.

 

Next up was that after I did this, someone decided to rear end me in the school parking garage while i was in class and not leave a note or anything. Didn't do much to my XJ because they hit the corner of my rear bumper, but they did bust my CB cable.

The only thing left behind was part of the headlight lense and fiberglass.



Well I knew they hit me pretty hard because of the way my bumper looked, not to mention they flattened the round edge of the CB mount.







Well I told one my friend about it, the one that works at the body shop, and he said they had just gotten a mustang with a U of M parking pass and with a fiberglass hood and had damage on the passenger side and headlight.

Well, I went and looked at it (it was a total, but the owner ended up paying for the repair). I knew they hit me hard but dang... it shifted the hole finder and apron back and the passenger door wouldn't open. If I didn't have a bumper, it would of destroyed the XJ's rear quarter panel and hatch.









After that I got a new water pump and valve cover gasket. I did the gasket but still have to do the water pump.

Took valve cover off, yup... still no sludge! And didn't see a head crack or even evidence of one forming either, so that was a plus.




The bolt template I made.


PCV


Ended up making a trip to multiple AutoZones to get the PCV grommets and also the PCV valves which they didn't have Stock ones and wouldn't for a couple of days, so I just went ahead and got the black Edelbrock 90° ones. Turned out good. Though as A side note, they will not fit in the front without a cowl hood, a stock hood would hit.



Cut the old ones off.



The Edelbrock PCV you take the gasket off that comes with it off and put it in the Jeep one.'




Taped up the holes (after I cleaned it out and in) to prepare for paint.



Painting.





Put saran wrap on the engine to keep it clean overnight.


New gasket.









Puting the PCV valves on.






And here is the new Ride. 1996 GMC Yukon, 2wd 4dr. Really clean with 195k miles. Got it for free because he was tired of putting money in it to get repairs done. He got everything done at a shop so even the simplest of things could easily be $500... per visit to get things done. And it had just started to not run, intermittently. He figured it was the fuel pump and didn't want to spend the money to fix it (Easily a $650+ job), and they really didn't want to scrap it either (was quoted about $200 to scrap) they rather it be on the streets put to use than torn apart. So dude talked to my dad, and my dad asked if i was interested and if i could fix it. I said i was and i could. Got it home and got it running the next day with just a battery after long cranking. Checked the fuel pressure and was about a PSI too low and these 5.7 vortecs are picky on fuel pressure. So got a AC delco pump and changed it out, it got better but it still had the problem. Did a little more research, got a cap and rotor, and now it runs like a top.

At dad's co-workers house.
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On the way home, getting pulled by my dads 2010 RAM 1500.


The Yukon and the XJ.

 

nice score on the yukon, ive always wanted to grab a z71 r an s10 to monkey with in my spare time, love those vortec motors

 

Yeah, I'm glad I got it too. I've always been partial to Chevy's (GM) and I wanted a 90's era Z71 for my first vehicle but it never happened... mainly because my dad didn't want me to have a V8, which in hindsight was probably a good idea. I did some stupid thing in my XJ when I first got it and it was stock, if I had a V8 at 16 I probably would of hurt myself. But I got the XJ and have loved every minute of it and glad I actually got it in the end.

I actually like the 350 TBI vs the early era 350 vortecs. I've just come to know them as finicky (before I ever got the Yukon), mainly due to the SPFI and regulator, but when all the electronics are happy they are definitely strong motors and somewhat more powerful than the 350 TBI's.

Other than changing the cap and rotor, this one seem to be good though, was well taken care of and besides some dings, a trailer jackknife incident, and the usual GM clearcoat problem it's pretty much mint. (besides the normal 195k on the suspension, the front needs and overhaul) The dash isn't even cracked which surprised the heck out of me. But yeah, I love that i have something else to monkey with, and also if I ever do a major upgrade or repair to the XJ (or this) I have another vehicle to drive.

This is pretty much going to be my main tow vehicle for now on too, I've towed so much with my XJ and it takes anything I throw at it, no matter how heavy... But it's nice to have something that will pull the same and more that was meant to. You just can't beat at frame when it comes to towing.

 

yea i love the TBI motors, i had an s10 blazer a few years ago that had a 4.3 tbi, loved drivin that little gut around. i was going to swap in a 350 tbi , but i ended up selling it cause i didnt have the $$$ at the time to have both my jetta and it.

the cool thing was the 350 would bolt up to all the stock 4.3 accsesories and the 4.3 ecu and harness would run the 350 as long as you swap in the 350 injectors

id love to get one again but ill probably get a civic if i end up moving where i want to sice ill be driving 80 miles or so a day

 

I had one a s10 with a 350 years back. Kind of a sleeper. Fun little truck. Had cut outs and sweet gears

 

Forgot to include this last time, but I made two flagpole mounts for my rear bumper on the Jeep.

The parts... Used my old pole I already made but cut it down a couple inches so I could fit in the parking garage. Got another brass pipe and cut it to the same length. Then got square tubing that the pipe would fit into snugly, Used some flat plate and angle I already had. And yes, I still haven't fixed my ripped CB cable, I have the end to fix it, just been lazy.

Brass pipe. 3/4"



1" square tube.


Cut to I believe just under 10"


Mock up to check height and where I want it.




Cut the angle down and welded it to the bumper on both sides.



Took the flat plate and cut down and welded two together.



Drilled the holes and mocked for drilling holes in the angle.



Took the square tube and welded to the flat plate and drilled it out for the pipe and painted.











Second flag pole, shielded in duck tape so the CB antenna wont ground out on it.



Also Friday I had to go and rescue a friend in a brand new single rear wheel 2012 F-350 that was going to pull another friend out that was buried up to his doors in a late 90s RAM. Don't know how he thought he would of done that, his F-350 is stock with no tires... Anyway, I winched him out with my winch and 2 tow straps so I could stay on the street.




Then later that night me and my friend with the blue 95 Z71 went back and hooked both out winches to the guy with the Ram and pulled him out. He was really stuck, all the way up to the doors, flame on the ground.

Anyway, here is the aftermath of just betting back to him and back out.


Here's some more pictures with my 96 Yukon.
Added a winch brush guard, it's the one that used to me on my friends 95 Z71, until he got a Warn bumper for it. I bedlined it and added some green. Plus painted the GMC. You might also be able to tell I installed my old General Grabbers on it, they don't have much tread, but a whole lot better than what was on it.


And here is some pictures of the XJ and the Yukon in front of my house.

 

SUPER BIG POST... 60 images plus about 10 more in the post after.

Hey!!!!......... Long time no see.... 2 years in fact.... Sorry.... Don't know how many of you are still following this or are waiting for an update but here it is.

One reason I haven't updated is because I've been working off and on fixing all the dead pictures from pages 1-6, FINALLY DONE!!

Another reason is that, as you know, in the last couple post I made I got a 1996 GMC Yukon 2wd... Well, all my time and money pretty much went to that and I pretty much neglected the XJ, besides regular maintenance and a coil pack, for the last two years. There were also months at a time I didn't drive the XJ and drove the Yukon once I got it where I wanted it.

But, if some of you follow me on Instagram (@dcp1992) I recently ran into some trouble with the Yukon and had to start to drive the XJ on a regular basis again until I fix the Yukon. And that means back to somewhat modifying the Jeep!!!

First, I'll start with what the Yukon looks like now... and what it looks like NOW until I get it fixed. As you see in the last update I had put my 31" grabbers on it and added the winch brush guard.... Well now it has 6" of suspension lift, 20x10 Anthem A731's wrapped with 285/60R20 (33.6") Kanati Trail Hog's, custom headlights I built, a custom tire carrier I built over the summer, and a LOT more.

If you are interested here is the Build thread I have for it: http://www.gmt400.com/threads/projec...n-c1500.33671/

Anyway, here is a first got to now comparison (before it went down)


Tire Carrier I built



And here is the reason it's down. First off, some sort of electrical issue (still have to fix), not a problem just time consuming to track down... but that's not why it's really down... My upper control arm decided it wanted to try and leave the frame... Luckily it was already parked because of the electrical issue or I might have been traveling down interstate and had it let go... wouldn't have been good. So now that the semester is over I can get out there and do a quick re-weld and gusset of the mount until this summer when I plan a SAS to just rule out this ever happening again, Plus I wanted to eventually do a SAS just no this soon... Well just like they say, can't do or have it until it's broke. I rule all the Memphis construction work going on to this happening.

Here's the damage and a YouTube Video I made. Also, YouTube is another good way to keep track of both my Jeep and Yukon Build.




Now onto the Jeep!!! Which most of you are probably interested in.

First off, here's are some backlogged pictures.
This is from the Snow/Ice of winter 2014/2015 (Feb. of 2015, which is when we usually get our white stuff here in Memphis.)


This is from the second (This is from March of 2015, again, another common time for the white stuff here)


Here's a video I took of the XJ playing in the snow that night.

Then these are a couple of pictures throughout 2015 that I took with the Yukon and the Jeep.



First snow of winter 2015/2016 (Jan. 2016)



Now fast forward to October of this year, about a month after I started having issues with the Yukon and with it being my Senior year in college, Senior Project, and a multitude of other projects along with work I wasn't able to look at and fix the problem so I was driving by dads Dodge RAM since he wouldn't be able to drive anytime soon. This is where I found out about the frame issue on the Yukon so I decided to get the Jeep driving again by Fixing the frozen driver side caliper while I had a break from projects and work.

Also I should say my front driveshaft slip joint went bad again, so right now I don't have a front drive shaft. I will be buying an Adams Driveshaft ASAP but It's probably going on the rear since the slip joint is just starting to get some slop and I'd rather get the rear fixed so I don't start messing up the pinion bearing.

Here's me fixing the caliper.


Then in late October I noticed a louder clunking noise when shifting between Drive and Reverse then I was used to. Found out my rear driveshaft U-Joint was messed up so the next night I replaced it. It looked really bad, so I'm guessing it had been bad even before I started to really drive the Yukon a lot.

Here's what the U-Joint looked like. You can see the trunnion shaved down and the caps elongated.


Then I ordered some Synergy ball joints and a cheap track bar to hold me over until I can get the track bar I want.
The reason I bought this stuff is because last year I noticed the front end was a little loose and there was some clunking noise. I found out the Rugged Ridge track bar I have the bushings were bad and I could not find any replacement bushings. I noticed the ball joints when I did the caliper.

Also, shortly after I noticed the clunking last year... I started to get death wobble for the first time ever, only happened on a specific road around the corner from my house with a pot hole. So that's another reason for the new track bar sooner and cheaper than I wanted. But it should last a year or so until I get the one I want.



Before the Yukon went down I was in the middle of building a second set of headlights for it. I'd already built my first set and a set for my biddies 95 Z71, this was my 3 set of headlights I was building and I was changing it up to put an LED cube in for the high beam. Well when it went down I put that on hiatus, but I did buy another set of LED cubes and halos to put in the Jeep. I also got a strobe module for the LED relay harness, so they can strobe as well as just be on.

So here is me building the LED cubes.



Strobe module


LED cube.


Halos



Disassembly.



Drilled hole for halo wire



Then the shaving down and clearance the reflector for the wire and also for the halo will fit under the lenses.




Test fitting the halo


Both reflectors clearanced.





Final assembly.




RTVed the halo wiring.


Then we move on the LED headlight I bought. Even though I already had Rampage composite replacement headlights that I've had since about 2009 along with my Hella headlights, I wanted something brighter. These headlights are really worth it. I can see so much better that I don't even really need the front LED cubes.

So, I bought the AubBeam 77721910, which is their premium 5x7 headlights. 57W total with Cree LEDs.


Here is a first impressions video I made for them. I still have to do the full review, should have one in a couple weeks.

I also bought some LED Concepts 5x7 halos to put in them. Here's the process.

First heat the oven to 265° and place them in the oven for 7 minute intervals.



Then use a flathead and slowly pry around the outside and separate the lenses then take the inside separate out.



The inside of the headlight.


Took the inside and shaved down the top so the halo would sit flat. Here's a test fit of the lenses.


Then I drilled holes for the beading wire that will hold the halo.



Beading wire installed and holding the halo in.



I also drilled a hole and brought the RGB wires through the hole and RTVed the hole close.


Done, except putting the lens on.


Here is a Video I did on building the headlights.


Then I started to install the headlights. First, I took the old Kicker Audio battery terminals off.



I got military terminals to replace them with. I've been meaning to do this for a while because the Kicker terminals didn't have enough spots for wires.


I also got a Putco H4 Wiring harness.


I took all the battery wiring and soldered the winch wires and AMP power wire and crimped the others since I didn't have connectors small enough at the time. I do have smaller ring terminals now, just need to solder them on.





I then installed the Putco wiring harness and then started to replace the headlights. Taking out the Rampage lights.