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I was fortunate with my seats not to have any worn pivots. I don't have the power seats, but I do have the manual sliding/pivoting seats- or what ever that option was called. My problem was the front of the seat frame where it bolted to the floor rotted out, so I had to reconstruct the front feet. Of course, like you, the entire frame got a new coat of black paint and light machine oil at the pivoting parts.
By the way, I read through all of this and I really like your restoration, a lot. I've put a lot of time into mine, but I think you have a whole lot more time into yours. I just might copy some of your ideas!
Well you certainly are lucky in that regard - it was like sitting in a squeaky rocking chair before. It's not *perfect* now, as I only really fixed the two pivots that were the worst offenders, but it's much better now. My front seat feet were rusty, but not structurally compromised, luckily. I hit them with the wire brush and then the paint. My floor was starting to give way under them as well and that is where the water was getting in.
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. Do let me know if you have any questions on sometime I've already tackled. If I can assist, I will!
Originally Posted by ajpulley
I am currently searching for replacement wing windows. My driver's side glass pivot is completely rusted out. My passenger's side is workable. I want to replace ALL the window seals/moldings.
Well if you find new wing window seals, please let me know. Mine are still fairly supple, but they could be replaced because they still leak when the ole gal gets wet.
Small update today, but I worked on the electric seat control housings. Over the years, the plastic has become brittle and the moving in and out of the seats has caused the mounting bosses to crack or even break off entirely. I used super glue and baking soda to fill and build up the cracks, except on one side, that was missing the mounting boss entirely.
After that, I used a Dremel to flatten the repairs and then wiped them down with acetone to remove old greases before painting with the best match paint I could find...I searched and bought paint at Lowe's and Home Depot and neither had a great match. Best I could find was a gloss exterior auto paint at the local Advance Auto. I followed it up with a semi-gloss clear to tone it down more like the other interior trim pieces. They turned out "ok". I'd have filled in and smoothed the repairs better if they were visible, but as it is, this is good 'nuff.
Not sure if this would help or you care but....
I requested a color swatch chart from SEM.
Trying to accomplish something.
I am not really good at this but looking at your pictures and the color chart
I am wondering if their Burgundy in the Color Coat might work.
15063
Napa started selling their products. I picked up a black from my store.
Chances are they won't have it in stock but can get it from the warehouse.
If they make daily trips to the warehouse for special orders if your timing is right
might be able to get it the same day. If not most likely one day out.
Not sure if this would help or you care but....
I requested a color swatch chart from SEM.
Trying to accomplish something.
I am not really good at this but looking at your pictures and the color chart
I am wondering if their Burgundy in the Color Coat might work.
15063
Hey nice find! I hadn't run across that in any of my searches for the darker burgundy paints! I just ordered a can off Amazon. I'll let you know how it matches. Thanks again!
Hey nice find! I hadn't run across that in any of my searches for the darker burgundy paints! I just ordered a can off Amazon. I'll let you know how it matches. Thanks again!
So I mentioned a couple of posts ago that I was in need of a front air dam. After visiting three separate junkyards yesterday, I was able to locate one, albeit a little bent up and warped from the front impact that got the Jeep there to begin with.
After messing with it with a heat gun for a couple of hours last night, I was able to get most of the noodle look out of it. Then this morning, I hung it out on my fence with a little ~10lb anvil chained to the bottom of it to stretch it out in the Texas sun for the afternoon. I'm hoping a day or so of this will get it pretty well back to shape before I clean, prep, and paint it later this week or this weekend.
Is that the color you first painted them?
Or is that the SEM paint?
Either way that looks great.
That was actually the first color I painted them. After hitting them with the semi-gloss clear it toned them down enough for the color to match a little better than I expected. I did order the SEM paint though and will test it out on a piece.
I'm positive it'll be a perfect match though...mainly because it's $17/can vs $6/can...that's about been my luck the last week or so haha!
That was actually the first color I painted them. After hitting them with the semi-gloss clear it toned them down enough for the color to match a little better than I expected. I did order the SEM paint though and will test it out on a piece.
I'm positive it'll be a perfect match though...mainly because it's $17/can vs $6/can...that's about been my luck the last week or so haha!
I was wondering if I should hit my door insert pieces with some clear coat.
Not that it really matters but they will never shine like the original ones do.
Even when using an interior product like ArmorAll.
I was wondering if I should hit my door insert pieces with some clear coat.
Not that it really matters but they will never shine like the original ones do.
Even when using an interior product like ArmorAll.
Well, personally, I've never been a big fan of the ultra-shiny interior look, but that's just personal preference. You could always try a light coat of gloss clear followed by a wet coat a few minutes later. That'd bring some shine to them.
Oh, btw, the Burgundy SEM came today and I shot a little test patch on some cardboard. I called it before...the $17/can SEM is a perfect match lol
Well, personally, I've never been a big fan of the ultra-shiny interior look, but that's just personal preference. You could always try a light coat of gloss clear followed by a wet coat a few minutes later. That'd bring some shine to them.
Oh, btw, the Burgundy SEM came today and I shot a little test patch on some cardboard. I called it before...the $17/can SEM is a perfect match lol
Well at least now you have 2 ways to achieve the matching color for your Jeep.
I have a piece that I tested the black I used for the Color Coat that I can experiment with clear coat on.
Confused as to what you mean by "You could always try a light coat of gloss clear followed by a wet coat a few minutes later."
Do you just mean a light coat followed by a heavier coat a few minutes later?
Also what did you use for a semi gloss clear?
Not finding much out there in a semi gloss.
Well at least now you have 2 ways to achieve the matching color for your Jeep.
I have a piece that I tested the black I used for the Color Coat that I can experiment with clear coat on.
Confused as to what you mean by "You could always try a light coat of gloss clear followed by a wet coat a few minutes later."
Do you just mean a light coat followed by a heavier coat a few minutes later?
Also what did you use for a semi gloss clear?
Not finding much out there in a semi gloss.
Ralph,
You are correct, what I meant was a first light coat, to give the second, heavier coat, something to "grab" onto so that it is less likely to run. I mean it still will if you lay it on super heavy, but what I mean by "wet coat" is that you get a good layer of clear on it that will (hopefully" not have any dry or rough-looking patches. If you get worried that you are laying it on too thick, then it's better to stop and wait for about 5-8 mins and then hit it again with another coat. If you are shooting full gloss, it can run easier than a semi-or matte gloss, imo.
As far as what I use, I do my best to match the base coat manufacturer to the clear coat that I'm using. When using the normal Home Depot/Lowes/Hardware store spray cans (1K/single part) I try to choose Krylon when I can (Lowes). I find that it's a better paint and has a better nozzle than the Rustoleum cans. The trade-off is that the Rustoleum enamel dries harder. Rustoleum "2x" paint/primer in one is pretty good too, actually, but it's not nearly as touch as their enamel. As I'm sure you know, when painting plastic, using an adhesion promoter before spraying your color coat really helps the paint stick. But after that long winded diatribe, to answer your question, I prefer Krylon clear coats, ha!
07-29-2020, 03:40 PM
