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It's pretty good stuff, that's what it is! I'd say it goes on similarly to their color coats. Its intended purpose is for the exterior trim pieces that were originally black from the factory but have faded in the sun over the years. Granted the items I've sprayed have been pretty much in the shade under my car port since I painted them, so I can't speak to how long they'll last once I get them in the sun more often, but I will say that the finish is pretty darn tough and has held up to minor bumps from DA polisher I used on the Jeep and some soapy scrubbing to get the dried-on compound splatter off. It's a real nice matte black and replicates the OEM finish for trim pieces very well.
Thinking it would be good for bumper caps and door moldings.
Most guys use the Krylon Fusion, in the Satin Black I believe, when they repaint
them on the '97 and up XJ's,
The SEM stuff might be a better choice. But it is more expensive.
Kinda on the same subject. So we sell the Krylon Fusion Clear Coats through my store.
And I can get it cheap but can't find any. No other stores have it. None of the warehouses either.
Don't know if they are just waiting on a shipment or it just won't be available anymore.
So I was poking around and think I might just spend the money on the SEM Clear Coats.
Try the Satin and Low Luster on my door panel test peices and see what I think.
Might just be better this way. Sticking with the same manufacturer.
I read sometimes that using primer from one company and paint from another sometimes they don't
play nice with each other. LOL.
Well I had a minor stumbling block last week; our water heater started spraying water as the flex-pipe decided to rupture. I then took a half day off to fix it and decided to drive ole Jeepie to Home Depot to get new copper hard lines, etc. Did my shopping and came back out and loaded my goodies in the Jeep, sat down, cranked the engine, and then I cranked the engine....annnddd then I cranked the engine....well, ****. I did the normal checks and discovered that when I depressed the schrader valve on the fuel rail I wasn't even getting a dribble of fuel. Fuel pump was toast.
Well, $190 later and she was home again. Very frustrating...the "Spectra Premium" pump is probably just over 18 mos old, with much of that time sitting while being restored. I suppose that the sitting may have contributed to the failure? I don't really know.
That said, one lucky thing is that I was able to purchase a new Bosch replacement pump on an Amazon Warehouse deal for only $18. It was clearly never installed, but had been opened. My guess is that someone decided that they where in a little over their heads.
Here is the old pump out and the new Bosch kit next to it. Obviously, it's much smaller than the Spectra Pump, but does come with the adapters needed to get a good fit. I ended up using all the included adapters and then chose to keep one of the large, flat section rubber rings around the bottom of the Bosch pump to act as a vibration damper/centering device. The other modification I had to make was to snip the connector that came with the new pump and butt connect/heat shrink the old pos/neg leads to the new pump leads. Lastly, the fuel pump strainer didn't want to stay seated on the new pump and I knew it was going to fall off the minute I put it into the tank, so I drilled a small into the side of the strainer mount and drove a screw into it and partially into the pump inlet to hold it in place. I apologize, in my grease and fuel covered state, I forgot to get a photo of the "after" with the new pump installed.
After fighting for another 45 mins, I finally got the new pump installed - such a pain in the butt - and hooked up. After reattaching the fuel lines and negative battery terminal, I primed the fuel lines by turning the key to start three times. Moment of truth....she started!
While doing the final checks of the new installation, I quickly noticed that the fuel filter was leaking, rather drastically. Evidently, the new fuel pump is putting out a lot more pressure and the crimp seam failed on the old filter. Well, luckily I already had a new one, so in it went. Problem #2, solved.
I then restarted to check again and my old nemesis, the fan belt decided to make its presence known again. This has been one of those, "yeah, yeah, I'll get to changing that after I do xxxx" things for awhile now. But as I was already sweaty, greasy, and covered in fuel, I figured what the hell. I went and grabbed my new Continental Gator belt and went to town. Changing the belt on these things is a bit of a pain in the ***, as many of you may already know, but I got'er done and now she's running smoooth and quiet.
At least it looks good on the tow truck lol.
I'm getting ready to order a fuel pump since I've got my tank removed and my current one is whining. I wish I could find a Bosch, thinking I'll probably order a Carter.
At least it looks good on the tow truck lol.
I'm getting ready to order a fuel pump since I've got my tank removed and my current one is whining. I wish I could find a Bosch, thinking I'll probably order a Carter.
lol...I like it better on the ground...running...
That said, here's the same pump I bought. I just got lucky w/buying one that was a return. Still, not very expensive for a Bosch unit...
That's actually a very reasonable price, it doesn't look like it will work for my 96 though. But thank you for the link!
No problem Spencer. Do some cross referencing though - I'm fairly sure that the pumps didn't change until 1997, though I could be mistaken. If your fuel pump/sending unit look at all like mine in the picture, you should be able to make it work.
No problem Spencer. Do some cross referencing though - I'm fairly sure that the pumps didn't change until 1997, though I could be mistaken. If your fuel pump/sending unit look at all like mine in the picture, you should be able to make it work.
I think I actually may have found a Bosch that says it will work and looks similar to the Delphi I pulled out, but shipping is about 2 weeks out so I may just reinstall mine for the time being. Whoever replaced the pump before I bought it did some funky splicing to the ground wire on the fuel pump harness so I've got to address that first.
I think I actually may have found a Bosch that says it will work and looks similar to the Delphi I pulled out, but shipping is about 2 weeks out so I may just reinstall mine for the time being. Whoever replaced the pump before I bought it did some funky splicing to the ground wire on the fuel pump harness so I've got to address that first.
Understood, well best of luck!
Alright, another quick update/improvement I performed this week:
So this past weekend I *finally* undertook and completed the Power Lock Write-up that Greg Smith did (I'll put the link to this below) and now *ALL FIVE* of my lock actuators are slamming open and closed now like they are a new vehicle. I really thought the actuators had just gotten tired because I've already cleaned and re-greased the locking mechanisms, but had still been having problems. Nope, it was a low-voltage issue, which is now (thankfully) solved.
But now I've gotten greedy - I want my windows to work just as well...
When I was doing my research for the power lock fix (many months ago) I also stumbled across a blurb that someone had written about what they did to fix the sluggish power windows in the same manner. I had printed out all the steps to complete the power lock modification at the time and had included that blurb in the print outs. Well, now that I am finally at the state in the restoration where all the bits and pieces are going back together, I want to fix the power windows too. I'll re-type the process described, below:
Power Window Fix:
There is a simple fix that often works for slow windows that was first done, as far as I know, by Jay3000 on Jeepsunlimited and later by myself. JeepinJoe has a writeup on his website with some pics. Basically, when the motors and wiring get older the amp draw is not enough through the small gauge wires to power the motors and switches.
The simple solution is to run a 10 gauge wire from the purple (as per my 89 FSM) power wire (for pre-91s IRRC) in the driver's side kick panel.
That wire should be the power wire going from the fuse panel to the master switch.
Cut the wire and connect the end going to the switch to the 10 gauge wire going to the battery lug on the starter relay next to the battery w/an inline 30 amp fuse.
Of course, you will now even be able to use the windows with the key turned off. Hope this simple fix helps.
Parts Needed:
Need 10-Gauge wire
Lugs
Inline 30-amp Fuse
Okay, so the only issue with the blurb that I see is the last sentence which reads, "Of course, you will now even be able to use the windows with the key turned off....".
So it seems to me that one could solve the issue of the windows having 24/7 power by utilizing a relay in a similar manner as was used with the power locks. I'm no electrician, but after doing some considerable research and self-learning on how relays work and which ones should be used where, I'm pretty sure I've got this situation figured out...
First, I'll detail how the power lock relays are wired:
Power Window Lock Relay Wiring RL45 Relay - 5 Blade
Relay 1: Lock Circuit - Green Wire
Blade 86 - Green Wire - Trigger Power (from the Passenger Door Switch)
Blade 85 - Ground 1
Blade 87 - New 10 gauge Power Source from Battery
Blade 30 - Green Wire (back to the original wiring Loom - Output back to the rest of the door locks)
Blade 87a - Ground 2
Relay 2: Lock Circuit - Tan Wire
Blade 86 - Tan Wire - Trigger Power (from the Passenger Door Switch)
Blade 85 - Ground 1
Blade 87 - New 10 gauge Power Source from Battery
Blade 30 - Tan Wire (back to the original wiring Loom - Output back to the rest of the door locks)
Blade 87a - Ground 2
So my idea for implementing the relay into the Power Window system isn't really all that complex. I'm going to try to test it out tonight.
Four PIN Relay: Power Windows - Purple Wire
Blade 86 - Trigger - Violet/Purple FROM fuse panel
Blade 85 - New Ground
Blade 87 - New 10 ga Output - Violet/Purple TO Driver's Door
SUCCESS! I implemented the above last night and I was successful. The windows now all go up & down easily with the increased voltage. See below for before/after voltages:
Not trying to make you nervous here. But you do realize that the breather for your rear diff goes into the uni-body on the driver's side. Assuming it is like my '00. When I did the internal frame coating on mine I ran a hose all the way to the engine compartment where the front diff breather is and even used the same "top hat" breather as the front does before I did it. My logic was two fold https://100001.onl/https://1921681254.mx/ . Thinking hosing it down with the internal frame coating was not a good thing. Also I like to Fluid Film in the uni-body too. Thinking gunking up the breather with Fluid Film might not be a good idea either.
I'm thrilled about being a part of this community and about becoming an XJ owner. I'm deciding among three XJs and would appreciate your advice tremendously. I'm undecisive about the following three models:
1. 2000 4x2 with 100k miles
2. 1999 4x2 with 199k miles
3. 1997 4x4 with 190k miles
The 4x4 feature on the 1997 XJ is very appealing to me, but I'm weary about the mileage on the odometer. On the other hand, the 2000 XJ is a 4x2 but it has half the mileage of the 4x4 on the odometer.
My situation: I'm a soon to be father (of a baby as well) and would love to take my wife and son off roading from time to time, and will use it mostly as my daily drive.
08-18-2020, 12:11 AM
Noob in search of wisdom
