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built not bought '89 build

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Old 04-26-2011 | 11:06 PM
  #391  
Gorillaxj's Avatar
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
Ya but money is something I'm lacking these days!
plus the stock T/case can handle a good amount of wheeling. I wouldn't drop to much monay into mine unless i had to or it was the "last" thing i wanted to do. but thats just me. Hope you find a good one for cheap.
Old 05-06-2011 | 12:26 AM
  #392  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
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If all goes as planned I should be pulling the t-case Wednesday from a local yard for $40 (half price wednesdays!!!)

In the mean time I cut the front fenders a little more cause the 35"s get up there pretty high! Lol also got the late model shaft installed & gonna get the LF wed. too.

built not bought '89 build-imag0132.jpg
Old 05-08-2011 | 12:25 PM
  #393  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Got a wild idea to fab up a cool air box that scoops out in front of the radiator... I ended up pulling the AC cooler, which should help with my overheating as seen in the shake down run pics! Lol its no k&n box, but its better than it was! Let me know what ya think?
built not bought '89 build-imag0142.jpg

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built not bought '89 build-imag0144.jpg
Old 05-08-2011 | 04:38 PM
  #394  
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looks good, should help thats for sure. hows the TC hunt coming along?
Old 05-08-2011 | 06:19 PM
  #395  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Should have it this Wednesday, & installed next weekend! If all goes as planned...
Old 05-09-2011 | 02:00 AM
  #396  
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From: Camp Casey South Korea
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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have you taken your old tcase apart yet? Mine did the same thing so i got bought one on here and it ended up mainly just being my chain was so stretched it was getting caught all over the place. If you do buy one from he junk yard make sure if its a 231amc that you get a 231amc also, the 231j isn't the exact same (my experience). Also id split your new one and check the chain tension, you dont want a loose chain to crack the new case.
Old 05-09-2011 | 07:56 AM
  #397  
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From: Northern Indiana
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0
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You need a 'ram air' decal! Sweet idea with the heat shield.
Old 05-10-2011 | 10:21 AM
  #398  
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From: SLC, UT
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I don't have time or energy these days to pull a case apart... I'll just find a nice stocker at the junk yard front end damage, & go from there! for $40 bucks I can afford got go threw a couple. Haha
Old 05-14-2011 | 01:08 PM
  #399  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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well we are back in business! The 242J to 231J swap was cake. The only difference was the gear selected dummy light wasnt the same, but that hasn't ever worked right on the beast...
built not bought '89 build-imag0147.jpg
Old 05-16-2011 | 10:19 PM
  #400  
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From: West Valley
Year: 1998
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Sweet! Glad to hear you got it worked out Ryan. I spent the day screwing with the frigging locker, couldn't find any reason for it to sound like its eating itself alive in reverse. Ended up stretching the outer springs on a hunch, drove it and its suddenly invisable only drove it a couple miles though, I suppose a little more street time will tell if I got it nailed down. Sorry to get off on a tangent, I'm glad to hear your back up and running brother!
Old 05-16-2011 | 11:54 PM
  #401  
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From: SLC, UT
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Really you stretched the springs? Is it set up like mine with springs between the inner cam gears? Shawn said I should try the no slip additive & people swear by it, but Aussie said they only need the 85-140w oil! I'm getting a HARD POP turning right under light torqe, but only the normal ratcheting going left... I'm about to sell it for a spool & Aussie lock the front!

Edit: the reason I would still go with Aussie in the front is cause it doesn't have teeth missing like on the 8.25 to accommodate the c clip on the right side. Which is where I think my problem lies!?!?

Last edited by builtnotbought89'; 05-16-2011 at 11:58 PM.
Old 05-17-2011 | 08:47 AM
  #402  
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From: West Valley
Year: 1998
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Yeah, it has a set of springs that keep it locked until it detects the differentiation while turning, then it disengages.
Old 05-17-2011 | 08:55 AM
  #403  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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Well after stretching them have you noticed it ratcheting better or worse? Is it chirping the tires more? What oil did they recommend you use, any additive?

Last edited by builtnotbought89'; 05-17-2011 at 09:00 AM.
Old 05-18-2011 | 08:02 AM
  #404  
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Mines the no-slip, advertised as being quiet and since messiing with it the other day I hardly hear it. I'd describe it as one or two quick pops in the turns as it disengages. Powertrax recommends you use the same diff fluid the manufacturer recomends, in our case 75-140 synthetic, no additive.
The spring idea was done on a hunch my friend had (he used to own his own offroad shop and has been playing with lockers for years), they didn't even stretch much being really stiff so I'm not even sure thats what fixed it, but its working now.

As for tire chirp, only from the inside tire in a turn if I'm too heavy on the throttle.
Old 05-25-2011 | 04:28 PM
  #405  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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A little late on the update, but I got the locker figured out after pulling it apart to find I was missing one of the spider gear shims! Lol also pieceing together/canabalizing an old compressor for my OBA running off the A/C pump since 35"s don't like to air up with a sig lighter pump. Haha & got my 3/16s RR upper QP guard cut & bent starting the other side this weekend! I'll get pics up after work

Make sure you vote for me on COTM- https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f54/may-cotm-90001/


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