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built not bought '89 build

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Old 11-13-2011 | 12:22 AM
  #736  
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From: West Valley
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
Dude that's a SICK video!!! Thanks man that made my day! Also love the music lol Immediately after crushing my QP (in the vid.) bad to the bone played on my mp3. Haha
Glad you liked it. I enjoyed putting it together.
Old 11-13-2011 | 09:45 PM
  #737  
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From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
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Engine: 5.2 V8, Dual cold air, dual batts, E-fan, Sanden OBA
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Remember when i was saying i remember reading about someone who had cut off the wedges on a Ford 44 and made a normal CA mount setup?
here ya go
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...Build-Up/page2
Old 11-14-2011 | 12:21 AM
  #738  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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He didn't show any of the retubing, but I think I'm gonna just run the radius ARM setup w/some 2x2 tube with ballistics square threaded inserts at the joints. Then just weld em to the radius arms like corys running.
Old 11-14-2011 | 12:26 AM
  #739  
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From: Springville, UT
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
He didn't show any of the retubing, but I think I'm gonna just run the radius ARM setup w/some 2x2 tube with ballistics square threaded inserts at the joints. Then just weld em to the radius arms like corys running.
You only have to retube it if they are the cast on style wedges I believe. But the radius arm setup would work
Old 11-14-2011 | 08:57 AM
  #740  
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From: Herriman, Utah
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by customzj73
You only have to retube it if they are the cast on style wedges I believe. But the radius arm setup would work
Yup. 78 and 79 have cast wedges (like mine).

76 and 77 have welded on wedges, you can cut the wedges off and still use the axle.

up to 75 is EB width, like 6 inches narrower and I think they all had welded wedges and drum brakes.
Old 11-14-2011 | 10:06 AM
  #741  
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Year: 1989 2 door
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EB width? Ya I was reading back threw your build & seen you mention that! Granted radius arms will be cheaper, eliminating them seems simpler!
Old 11-14-2011 | 10:33 AM
  #742  
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I have seen more then one radias arm build where they extended out the arms by welding dom over the radias arm stud... and putting a flex joint on the frame end.
Old 11-14-2011 | 10:36 AM
  #743  
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Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
EB width? Ya I was reading back threw your build & seen you mention that! Granted radius arms will be cheaper, eliminating them seems simpler!
Early Bronco, the box broncos are a lot more narrow than the full size.

If you're doing a 44/9, the ideal 44 is a 76 or 77 with the welded wedges. Cut the wedges off and run a 3 link. If i hadn't gotten mine so cheap I would have done that.

But FYI, Dylan built a front 3 link on a cast wedge axle with no issues. Welded the control arm brackets to the bottom of the wedges, and built coil buckets on top of them. Works fine.

Last edited by X1994J; 11-14-2011 at 10:41 AM.
Old 11-14-2011 | 10:48 AM
  #744  
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From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
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Engine: Renix 4.0L
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Originally Posted by PingPong
I have seen more then one radias arm build where they extended out the arms by welding dom over the radias arm stud... and putting a flex joint on the frame end.
Ive seen this a few times as well. It seems really easy, but not quite as solid as hacking the existing arm down then welding on DOM
Old 11-14-2011 | 10:58 AM
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So the '75 F150 isn't a full width & is 6" narrower then yours? Says its the same length here. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44...Early%20Bronco
Old 11-14-2011 | 12:11 PM
  #746  
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From: Herriman, Utah
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
So the '75 F150 isn't a full width & is 6" narrower then yours? Says its the same length here. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44...Early%20Bronco
Yes, the F-150's are still the wider ones, I was referring to the Bronco D44's. (because you guys were discussing the radius arms) But I believe the 75 F-150's were drum as well... could be wrong though.

Something is screwy with the info on that page. On the EB info. it shows up to 77 the WMS was 58-59 inches. Which is the narrow 44. I guess I didnt realize the EB's went all the way to 77.

The Full Size broncos had the same setup as the F-150's, the wms on my front 44 is like 65 inches. (6 inches wider than the EB's)

Last edited by X1994J; 11-14-2011 at 12:19 PM.
Old 11-14-2011 | 12:18 PM
  #747  
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Just a lil clarity on the HPd44. Starting in 1973 ford switched to an open knuckle D44. From 73-early 75 they had drum brakes, and weld on wedges. Only down side is they had drum brakes... WELL chevy/Waggy outers are cheap and easy to find. Unless you are dead set on running 5x5.5 you can get away with running 6x5.5 for the same money if not less then converting to 5x5.5.


The only reason why I know this is I am running a 73 housing with chevy outers.. which are mor common on the trail then the ford outers.
Old 11-14-2011 | 12:20 PM
  #748  
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Originally Posted by PingPong
Just a lil clarity on the HPd44. Starting in 1973 ford switched to an open knuckle D44. From 73-early 75 they had drum brakes, and weld on wedges. Only down side is they had drum brakes... WELL chevy/Waggy outers are cheap and easy to find. Unless you are dead set on running 5x5.5 you can get away with running 6x5.5 for the same money if not less then converting to 5x5.5.


The only reason why I know this is I am running a 73 housing with chevy outers.. which are mor common on the trail then the ford outers.
So what are you running in the rear to get a matching bolt pattern? Waggy 44?
Old 11-14-2011 | 01:02 PM
  #749  
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Zachs got a '75 F150 44/9" open knuckle/drums 5x5.5, he's getting me the hookup for $100 for the set!

What would be my options for the 9" w/6x5.5 shafts?
Old 11-14-2011 | 01:30 PM
  #750  
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
Zachs got a '75 F150 44/9" open knuckle/drums 5x5.5, he's getting me the hookup for $100 for the set!

What would be my options for the 9" w/6x5.5 shafts?
If your going to run a 6x5.5 pattern and plan on alloys for the 9" I would run the Dutchmen(IIRC) shafts and they can be ordered with a 6x5.5 pattern. at that point it wont cost any more. But if you want to run stock shafts for a while then adapters are your only option. But if your buying shafts I would get the 35 spline and a 35 spline locker/spool at the same time to make it bullet proof (or close to)

hope it helps some lol


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