This probably isn't going to be what would be considered a "normal" build thread...Most builds would be dealing with the usual rust and maintenance issues before the fun stuff begins..Then again some will think I'm nuts for even modifying this one.. It's been in the family since new...A 99 sport...And....It's got 67,000 original miles !!! I've got all the original paper work including the window sticker, factory option sheet print out and other glovebox stuff that's usually lost or taken after the first owner....It's been well kept with the exception of the paint now showing it's age from being outside most of it's life...There's ABSOLUTELY NOTHING wrong with any aspect of the vehicle mechanically...No rust to repair, no wiring issues, etc... You get the idea, I won't be needing to spend time bringing it up to standards...
So why take an XJ that most would consider a once in a lifetime find and modify it ??? Good question...I've had it a for years now and realized I don't drive it much..I do use it in the winter months more than it got used the first 20 years of it's life but it basically sits around most of the year as a back up for our newer vehicles...So I got to thinking about the usual XJ mods like lift kit, bigger tires, etc..
Which led me to this point in time where I feel it's time to take the old girl to the next level...No, it's not going to be an all out, extremely modified rock crawler..But a well planned dual purpose jeep with some tasteful mods inside as well as out..So I invite everyone to watch the transformation as it progresses...Here's the XJ in it's current state...Not a bad starting point...

front view

side view

rear view

 

First up is getting the vehicle covered for the sandblasting ceremony...One big sheet that's taped along the rocker pinch weld.. Drivetrain got wrapped in place...I blasted the unibody from front to rear minus the axle housings and anything that's getting removed...Followed with some black chassis epoxy to seal everything off...

 

Next up was removing the steering linkage, track bar and bracket, sway bar, driveshaft and control arms. Then degreasing, ball joint and control arm bushing removal...Followed with blasting the dana 30hp housing for the modifications..

 

After sand blasting the key areas the housing got the usual upgrades including a Barnes upper control arm gusset, JCR lower control arm skid plates, JCR truss, and lastly some Iron Rock Offroad C gussets... I'm pretty good at welding but I have to admit it was stressful going through the process with welding/cooling not to mention the pre and post heat cycles for the cast steel center section...But I got it done with no issues...
With the reinforcements in place it was back outside for the final sand blasting then three coats of chassis epoxy...At this point the axle is ready to be sent off for the 4.56 yukon gears and the TrueTrac differential...Remember it's a dual purpose build but I figured I'd take the housing to the next level to make it easier if there's more upgrades in the future...

Barnes UC gusset

JCR LCB skid plates

Iron Rock C gussets

JCR Truss

 

Here's the housing ready to be sent off...It'll get wet sanded and a few more coats to smooth out some rust pits here and there when it comes back..

Overview

Cs

 

It would be nice to see a list of the plans you have for this MINT Cherokee.
My Cherokee had 66k miles when I got it and it is wonderful to work with something that isn't clapped out.

4.56 must mean you are going 33s. Especially if you are spending that much money on a 30.
You doing an 8.25 for the rear, or does it already have it?

You keeping stock bumpers, or plate bumpers? Building your own?

Whatever happens, keep updating.

 

Real nice. I usually hate to see mint trucks getting modified, but you are doing it the right way as far as being tasteful and well thought out. I look forward to seeing your progress.

 

Thanks guys... Yes, 33s...33x12.50/15s...I've got the tires already..Mickey Thompson MTZ P3s...
4.5 inch lift
Truetracs front and rear. I was going to get a detroit locker for the rear but eaton has them on backorder for almost a year..That was directly from the eaton sales rep..
It's got an 8.25 rear in it so that's what I'm going to use..I even checked on a grizzly locker but came to the realization that they dont make one for the 8.25... So the truetrac won by default because I didn't want a lunchbox in the rear..
Speaking of the 8.25..What's the opinion of a truss for it ??? If I were to add one now is the time with the regear but I'm on the fence about doing it..

I did modify the axles for the full circle snap ring and changed out the U joints to the 5-760x ...To be honest no parts were bad enough to be changed out{if I wouldn't have been doing this}

in process

installed
other than the upper control arm bushings were more cracked than I would have liked but they still would have been fine..

 

Here's a peek into the box of goodies..4.56 Yukons..Truetracs...And the master install kits with timken bearings for both axles...It's amazing how fast the cash adds up for one box !!

gears and differentials

 

I suppose it depends on the goal of the vehicle. I’ve read that the C8.25 doesn’t need it unless you’re running a tire larger than what you’ve got, but nobody seems to talk about vehicle weight. If you’re going to be at or above GVWR most of the time and wheeling bumpy terrain, you might consider a truss to help support all of that weight coming down off a ledge or bump (I’m considering adding one on mine). But if you’re keeping it light and/or not wheeling bumpy terrain, then it’s probably not worth it. That’s my opinion.

 

Thanks for your thoughts on the subject..
The initial plan is to keep the "factory bumpers" ...With that being said I'm adding a hidden winch in the front , rear trailer hitch, and future plans may include a spare tire carrier...All the mods add weight fast and the aftermarket bumpers seem to be one of the biggest offenders for additional/sprung weight..So for now I want it to be somewhat stock appearing in regards to the bumpers...That's got me thinking..I'll have to weigh an original wheel and tire combo and see just how much unsprung weight I'm adding just from the 33s and wheels..
Anyhow, I'm an overkill type of guy and don't mind adding the 8.25 truss.. Money isn't a factor..But after looking at options it's more a question of which rear truss will do the job without going over the top in added weight/appearance for light to moderate wheeling..Some of the trusses out there are over the top for my intended purpose but I see so many in my situation where they didn't do enough initially then back peddle to add stuff after the fact..

 

I’m running 32s on aluminum wheels and I calculated about 175lbs weight gain from them. As for a rear truss, take a look at the offerings from JCR and Iron Rock Offroad. JCRs looks a bit smaller which might be all you need.

 

I ended up ordering a JCR truss for the 8.25...It was one of the smaller offerings for a truss and it's only fitting seeing how I've got their front truss already..It's strange everyone seems to have the Dana 30HP truss in stock but nobody had the 8.25 in stock... I ended up going directly to JCR...They didn't have any in stock as well and needed to make one for me..Two week lead time before shipping..
The past few days {after work} were spent Getting the front factory axles upgraded...I took them apart, sandblasted, then epoxy coated the shafts...Besides the full circle snap ring and 5-760x universals I ended up adding Iron Rock Offroad's almost alloy kit to strengthen the U joint ears...I installed them as per their instructions...If you follow their procedure you won't cook the grease out ...So if these fly apart I'll be buying the real deal on the shafts...I'm thinking for my application I'll be good to go...

 

I got another delivery from IRO ...New 8.25 axle plates, front and rear bar pin eliminators and the heavy duty coil spring retainers... I'm impressed with the quality of everything from IRO...The bar pin removal/ tube install went relatively well...I've seen some builds where the center tube was left out from what I'm assuming was because of not being able to get them in there...Here's what I did...I pulled the shock bar pins AND rubber bushings.. Inserted the center tube half way into the rubber bushing.. then pushed the bushing in as far as it would go with the metal tube inserted...Then tapped{as in hammered LOL..} the metal tube in which in turn took the bushing along for the ride..The secret sauce for this was some windex window cleaner to lube the process...Worked well and then evaporates leaving nothing behind...

 

Going through the usual process of sandblasting the suspension components.. Everything gets done including some original fasteners for re use .. After sandblasting and coating the knuckle with epoxy, I was less than happy with the condition of them... They ended up being downright ugly for what I want to have happen here....The stake in the coffin was when I realized the brake pads had left a bigger divot in the slides than I originally thought...I can't believe I missed this through the process.. I ended up buying a new set...

worn pad areas