I bought mine and it didn't have an ashtray cover so didn't think to put switches under it, thats awesome! I got a carbon fiber ashtray cut out for switches, Im just about done wiring them up, and amp under the seat like yours yours.

 

Those boxes look crazy!

 

So thank you for showing this.
Been still working on my aux fuse box set up.
I bought this thinking I would just find a central location for all the relays.

https://www.online-led-store.com/2-x...-accepspwr0034

I have seen those boxes for the fuses and relays but never understood how you got power to them.
Thanks to your post I now realize you use that little busbar box for that.
What is the biggest gauge wire that you can run with the terminals that come with the fuse/relay box?
Also be curious as to where you put this in the engine compartment and how you ground everything.

 

I used a 12 gauge wire and it was what I consider the biggest that will fit with the terminals supplied...And the green seals are tight with that gauge wire.. I'll get some pics of where everything ended up..But I'll tell you they ended up on the driver's side behind the air cleaner box.. There simply wasn't any other place I was going to get away with them.. And they're grounded in the same area the factory grounds are near the same airbox...That meant the 4 gauge hot is in it's own convoluted tubing and run with the wiring harnesses across the firewall..

 

Now that is what I wanted to hear cause while I am thinking 12 gauge is overkill, not that I have a clue (LOL), I wanted to wire everything up with 12 gauge too.
I notice with a lot of stuff like this they never specify what gauge wire the terminals they supply in these "kits" take.
And it seems when they do they they say 16 gauge.
Which I am guessing would be fine but...... LOL.
I was thinking that whatever I set up would end up behind the air box by the brake booster too.
Only other place was I was thinking might work is that section on the firewall on the passenger side.
I am assuming that you are going to use a circuit breaker somewhere before that?

 

I was trying to position the small distribution box over there on the passenger side firewall but the hood bracing does sit down from the cowl seal.. And wouldn't fit the way I would have liked.. Yes, circuit breaker or mini ANL fuse holder..

 

I had saved this shot to my computer that I found on the internet.
So I was thinking there was some room to play with over there.

 

Yes that would be fine for the distribution/fuse box in the pic.. The two I'm using has the "feet" to hold them up and the wires exit/enter from the bottom which raises them up much higher..

 

Wow am I glad the relay wiring harness is done... A bunch of engineering and work for what appeared to be an easy task.. Here's the final location of the relays...Keep in mind this is the install phase and the original wiring harness will get re-wrapped and I'll be the first to admit it's ugly..LOL..But I needed to move it around quite a bit for the install...

Three relays are now in use {temporary tape shows the used 3}.. It seals up nicely and will be waterproof as advertised ..

As you can see in the above pic the distribution box ended up in the rear corner and a gland grommet was used for the firewall wiring to pass through.. I went through the existing firewall plug so no additional holes were added in this area.. After much thought the relay grounds ended up in the area already designated for the ECM ground and the other circuits... There just wasn't enough room for a ground buss bar or another distribution box.. This ended up being the best looking,easy and simple solution..New ground wiring got inner star washers for good grounds...And the original grounds got cleaned and new screws as well...

And a final shot of the placement from another angle.. I wanted to keep everything away from the brake master cylinder so there's no brake fluid heading in the wrong direction in the future...

So it's a done deal... The engine bay is filling up quick... That should be it for the existing and future wiring needs... Like I said before, I'm glad it's over ...LOL...

 

thats a beautiful job, wiring done right can be time consuming. I will have to do a lot of wiring myself when I get my ARB lockers in. I will probably use this thread to keep me on track.

 

I ran into an issue with the fuse/housing I was going to use for the distribution block and I'll show what happened when the new parts come in..
So for the time being I jumped back on the stereo wiring..The front doors to be exact..With the higher RMS rating of the system I ran new wiring harnesses through the doors... I had to wrap a harness for the 6.5 main speaker and the new tweeter..The speaker crossovers are both in the kickpanel areas..
But to start out the process I cleaned the inner door shells then coated the inside bottoms/rain trough with Eastwoods rust encapsulator..There's no rust to speak of but this stuff is a good,thick coating and it will help move any water along to the drain holes in the shell..Next up was Krylons new truck bed coating for the inside exposed{as in primer} sheet metal ...Went on great and hardened nicely...Which set the stage for the last layer of sound proofing...

NVX's version of the butyl sheets...I went a little over the 25% area rule to deaden the panel areas basically running a strip at the speaker area close to the door bottom...Also a few areas above the door crash reinforcement beam.. Now you can tap on any area of the door and not get the cheap panel ringing like the factory configuration...

Next up was a foam baffle.. The door's window track is the limiting factor here so I fitted the baffle in there to where it is just shallow of the track depth...Then cut the baffle...

Then glued it to the INSIDE of the speaker opening.. The JBL 6.5's speaker magnet is way bigger than the factory parts so this baffle was the solution.. Also, the factory moisture barrier had the half baffle molded in but that will be eliminated so this route was the cure..And one more thing..The baffle was cut so only the top half was kept so it sheds any water around the speaker.. Using the whole baffle in a sealed state will keep the speaker from producing a good bass it needs the door cavity airspace to work correctly..

 

After I re lubed the center window track with Syl-glide I buttoned up the door with the last layer of the butyl matting..This takes the place of the factory moisture barrier... What a difference the doors have now... When you close them there's no hollow ring to them... I bet the mid bass from the JBL speakers will be awesome with these upgrades... Here's a pic of the sealed up door...

 

Now for the fun part of the 6.5 component install...So far everything with the doors is geared towards a good sound from the speakers...Oh yeah, here's a shot I took of the Krylon bed coating and the mat in place inside the door shell..

Now as you can see in the previous post the speaker will fit in the factory hole...But in actuality it's a touch bigger than the factory speaker..For most people that wouldn't be a problem just slam it in there {without the supplied grille} and pop the door panel on.. Done deal right? Well, not really...Jeep and their acoustical wizardry put a small offset in the door panel opening so most the sound waves travel up.. Not only that there was no speaker gasket between the speaker and the door panel..Man, that's a bunch of sound waves not getting out of there...


Something needs done to correct the problem or I might as well not have bothered with the whole procedure...We've reached another point in the build where I say " cut the door panel" and everyone cringes like cutting the factory fenders for flares...lol...
Now, to show just what I'm talking about with leaving a huge obstruction in front of the speaker here's the pic..Original door panel speaker opening is highlighted with blue tape...

 

That's a bunch of good sound left on the table...So what I did was cut the grille area from the door panel.. Installed both the door panel and speaker grille and traced around the grille.. And with numerous trial fittings made a small gap between the speaker grille and the door panel..


Now I can get the door panel off without removing the speaker or grille if need be...And ALL the sound now makes it's way from the area...
OK, you know me by now and although I could have left it like that with a perfect trim job around the speaker it still {to me} looked unfinished and needs to go to the next level ... With that being said I added some black rubber U trim.. It's got an 1/8th inch opening and is a perfect fit ...I present the finished product for the perfect blend of the JBL GTO grille and the door panel...

 

The last hurdle for the door component speakers was the tweeter placement.. I tossed around the idea of adding them in the upper door panel like the durangos had... Not really what I wanted.. Then I thought about adding them to the factory location where the infinity tweeters were.. That would be up at the mirror trim...Great location but..
1} I got sticker shock pricing a simple factory tweeter surround piece at $200 plus a set !! Good luck getting that for such a small part.. I don't mind paying for parts but the money just isn't sensible for such a small part..And I don't have time to roam the boneyards for the score..But the biggest problem is:
2} the JBL tweeter is larger than the factory tweeter and I'd need to mod the part anyhow..
So one thing this jeep has taught me is being a pro at the search...I ran across Napier Precision's XJ tweeter pods.. Now we're talking !! Check these out with the JBL tweeters...

They fit very nice, come with all the hardware, and even a snap on button to cover the screw head.. But I chose to use the JBL badge for that... Anyhow, here's the finished door with all the components in place... I'm happy with the results...