It looks like you caught that problem before it busted your mount like it did me.
I bought similar relocation brackets from Ruff Stuff, but I haven’t put them on yet. After seeing Zone’s offering on your vehicle, I’m not sure which is better. Did your disconnects have to be trimmed down 2” to fit?

 

You know, I remember reading that now that you've posted it... No I didn't need to cut the length of the adjustable link... I shortened it up and flipped the sway bar mounting tab to the top instead of the bottom... I don't see any reason it won't work like that.. It actually lines up better now than before...

 

This week's task is installing the rock lights... I chose this style rock light in white.






They're coming in at 9 watts a piece and I've got 16 of them...That's 144 watts total or, converted to amps comes out to only 12 amps...Not bad for powering 16 lights... The wire I'm using is low voltage outdoor wiring {in black} in 16 gauge...There's graphs for what gauge of outdoor wiring is needed and I've picked this one to use...

Now, as usual I turned this into a project...I don't want to drill holes in the metal body ...So that makes it way harder than just picking a spot and getting it over with...So with that in mind I got out my 12v jump box, lit up a rock light and started placement for the best all around positions...Now, here's the deal.. I know these lights fall somewhere in the show and go aspect of installing them...I want them to be actual rock lights to see what's on the ground, they don't change colors or shine mostly on the suspension like I see some builds...Anyhow,16 lights gives me two in each wheel well, two front ,two back and two on each side of the vehicle...Easy enough {?} not really with my self imposed parameters...Here's what I'm getting into..
Each rock light is completely sealed and has a soft plastic base that will allow the wiring to come out pretty much anywhere to fit the area...Here's a pic of my "work table" lol but it shows the based I'm referring to...

Some locations won't be using the rubber bases...And the main areas for omitting these are the front wheel well plastic liners...They simply get drilled and fastened with the wiring ending up on the top...Here's a pic with those in the process..


I've got the liner pulled down in that pic but you get the idea...The front half of the vehicle is the easy part, just pick out an area on the plastic wheel liner and get it done... But the back wheel well...Hmm....I have to admit I almost broke my own rule here about drilling into the metal but then I was placing them to see what get's shined on and realized I could put my bushwacker pocket flares to good use back there..Here's another "in progress" pic..

The allen head screws are temporary I've got flatter pan heads to go in there.. But you get the idea...And it still lights up the whole wheel well and areas outside the vehicle nicely...But the holes need to be much bigger so it doesn't obstruct the lighting at all angles...

 

It's funny but I toyed with the idea of installing rock lights under my '00.
But in an effort to maybe not have to drag a flashlight with me under the '00 when working under there.
Being older and my eyesight not being what it used to be find that proper lighting is becoming more and more important.
Don't think I could be position them in places that would actually let me get away with that.
LOL.

 

I know what you're saying Ralph...Readers and extra lighting for everything I do now...lol..It appears these rock lights have a broad spectrum of lighting and I'm hoping for an all around underglow for obstacles and possibly just what you're talking about...I'm sure a flashlight will be in the emergency bag just the same....

 

In the old days I'd be making connection, soldering, heat shrink tubing... And generally spending a whole lot of time getting it done...Here's what I'm currently using for most all my connections...

.I'm not sure if any of you have used these new solder seal connectors but they definitely save a bunch of time and can seal up multiple wires in one connector....Simply break out the heat gun and they seal both ends and make a great solder connection in one step... I'm never going back...lol... Here's a pic of the connectors and the job they do...Oh, and this pic brings up another point..I'm using water tight connectors strategically placed so the system can be broken down when maintenance is needed...In this case it's the wheel well liner connector so it can be easily removed if need be...Anyhow, check out the quality of these connections..Water tight and soldered up nicely..


One thing I've noticed is the sheathing on the rock light wiring is simply a tube not encasing the wires like the outdoor wiring harness...So I use liquid electric tape at the end of each rock light to seal it up so water doesn't wick up the wiring...Other than that it's a good rock light..

 

Love those things. Make wiring things much faster.

 

My rock rails saved me from a big mess of wiring ...I made two conduit runs {one for each side} then installed the rock lights on them.. This way the wiring isn't drooping or run far away from where the lights are actually placed...


These fit on top of the rock rails and then got fastened with some stainless conduit clamps at the pinch welds..Actually all the hardware is stainless.. I don't want any issues down the road with rust...Two lights per rocker should do the trick...



I've run each side on it's own circuit.. That's 8 lights per side {72 watts/6 amps}..The main harness section is 12 gauge and after that the wiring tees down to 16 gauge with strategic watertight connectors to make the maintenance easy.. In order to keep stray electrical currents as low as possible all grounds are connected to the harness and get grounded in the engine bay with the other grounds on the left front inner fender...This should keep the stereo and amps happy with any unforeseen electrical static...
As stated before I've got two lights in the front bumper area , two lights per wheel well, two along the rockers and two at the rear bumper area...So I just had to hook up the jump box to see just how my handy work looks..Wow they throw some light !!

 

Nice look.

 

Thanks, and as usual it took way more work and planning than I originally thought...But they're a done deal now and they work as well as hoped...
Now I get to jump around and finish up some wiring... The Extended idle switch is now active and working...I moved out to the engine bay for a day and finished up some wiring harness issues with retaping some areas and general clean up of the routing... I also got a chance to install the DEI fuel rail/injector kit... It went on without issues and fit very nice around the intake and rail...

 

Time to install the front splash shield... From what I've read it's highly recommended to reinstall this shield not only to keep the low mounted alternator from getting doused with water and mud but it supposedly helps direct the flow of air over the engine... I bought the shield from Detroit Muscle Technologies... It comes with the plastic push pins and is reinforced in that leg that always rips off over time...

I had to modify the shield in the pitman arm area as well as the winch mount plate area... All in all it wasn't bad at all and it fit exactly like the factory piece...


I added a few zip ties instead of drilling through some very thick metal... And cut out around the huge bolt heads for the sector shaft brace.. Then it laid down nicely...

 

I love that red!

 

Oh man - I almost forget that some if not most of these things came with those shields from the factory. I'd reckon the most of the originals ones are in the trash somewhere. I may have to get a couple for myself!

 

My '00 came with one that was mostly there when I purchased her.
Found one in somewhat better shape in the boneyard that I ran for awhile.
Until one day cruising Craigslist found a brand new Mopar one.
$35 shipped to the east coast from New Mexico.
Still on the Jeep today.
LOL.

 

Do those shields interfere with changing the oil filter? My Jeep has the clips in place but no shield.