While I was prepping and painting the components I ended up grinding off the rivets holding the exhaust hanger rubber block and flipping the rubber over for some new life...I'm pretty good at finding those parts that are elusive but that one got me...I got tired of looking and bought some time doing what I did...But now I'll be able to switch it out without tearing everything apart when the time comes...

 

So after I prepped everything for the install I got to thinking.. Now is the perfect time to change out the trans output seal..So I snagged a NAPA seal and installed it...That makes all new seals from the trans output shaft back...Rather be safe than sorry..As you can see I also installed the shifter extension from Azzys linkage before the TC went in..That thing fit nice and tight with no adjustments needed.. I'm very pleased with the linkage quality...

 

And here's the transfer case in it's final resting place.. I sandblasted the crossmember and shot it with epoxy making that the last major piece needing attention in the area...I used some medium loctite on the trans mount bolts and the crossmember nuts/bolts for good measure...

 

Wow, you could literally eat off the undercarriage of your truck. (Not literally, but pretty close.)

 

Moving forward on the jeep... As in moving to the engine...I turned a non leaking bottom end into a leaker by getting the pressure washer too close to the oil pan gasket up at the timing cover... So a new pan gasket is in order.. I am NOT doing the rear main seal at this time due to the mileage being what it is and its bone dry back there...I lucked out between the lift kit and the ACOS spacer the oil pan practically fell out of there...Here's what frequent oil changes get you...

 

Everything your doing is Top Notch!
I love your attention to detail.

 

Working my way through the engine..The valve cover gasket was the next in line for replacement.. I ended up repainting the original valve cover and reinstalling it.. I was looking for an aftermarket piece but I really didn't find any that I wanted to use for one reason or another..So the original hardware was cleaned up and paired with the felpro gasket set..That should be it for the engine gaskets..No other areas were leaking and I've already replaced the freeze plugs..

 

Every engine needs a good foundation so next up is the Brown Dog motor mounts... I kept the trans mount lock nuts off in anticipation of changing these mounts out.. I went with the Ultra-flex rubber pieces and the through-bolt install kit...I checked the engine bracket bolts and all were good, so I didn't fix something that wasn't broke..The install went a smooth as it could.. I raised each side just enough to get the job done and both sides fell in with no issues.. This was another job I was worked up about doing after reading the various problems others had with the install...If it all goes as it has I'll be happy with the project..

 

Be curious as to how you feel about vibrations, if any, that these cause over factory ones.
In travels I was able to pick up a brand new set for $60.
I figured it was worth the price to have them in "stock". LOL.

 

What the instructions tell you is to tighten the through bolts down until they won't go any further.. Then back the lock nut off a 1/4 turn at a time until a washer can be spun on the bolt.. This is supposed to keep the vibrations to a minimum.. We shall see... I thought the factory mounts had more than usual vibration transmitted compared to other vehicles but I've never owned a Cherokee before so I had nothing to compare.. With that being said the factory engine mounts appeared to be in great shape while on the vehicle and I was wondering if I was nuts to even change them... After removal there were stress cracks and the rubber was rock hard.. Maybe that's what I was feeling to begin with..

 

On to the wiring upgrades...I bought the 160 amp 2002 Durango alternator for the charging duties..This one came from DB electrical..All new not rebuilt and even comes with a performance read out.. One thing I've noticed is the plugs and output stud plastic retainer are nearly identical.. Also, the pulley isn't much bigger than the original.. I'm going to let the new{and stronger} pulley on this one since the graph shows more than enough charging at idle..Keep in mind the alternator itself spins faster than what the engine is idling so I'm confident there will be no lack of performance at lower RPMs..Here's the comparison shots..

 

I modified the tinned copper terminal to fit inside the original plastic output cable cover... And the cable I'm using is the better dual layer casing 2 gauge...

 

Quite a bit of work for one terminal end ,but I was set on using the original charge stud cover ...

 

I took a slightly different route.
I figured a 45 degree one here would be better for cable routing.
But I did not have to modify my battery lug. Just the plastic cover.
And I did use 2 gauge too.
But I am running a stock housing that I had the amps upped in to about 155.
According to the guy that did it for me.
Oh and this is just when I mocked it up.
I did put the cable through the square when I put it all together even though you don't see it in the mock up.

 

Nice, I can see where that 45* right off the alt would help with the routing..
I clearanced the brackets to fit the Durango alternator..Pretty much like others have done with the exception of making sure the modification areas/webbing had a radiused design for strength..