Houston Kid's 1999 Cherokee
#153
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#155
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#157
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Check with Maaco when they are running there sale. It was a few hundred bucks off and way cheaper than any other place I went to.
I will be putting in the rear locker tomorrow. Got it prepped tonight. Axles out, diff cover prepped, spider gears out. I will be dropping it in tomorrow. Saving the front for next weekend.
I will be putting in the rear locker tomorrow. Got it prepped tonight. Axles out, diff cover prepped, spider gears out. I will be dropping it in tomorrow. Saving the front for next weekend.
#158
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finished the locker install. One set of the front carrier bearings were bad so those got replaced as well as the race. The pic does not reflect how badly the bearings were pitted. Decided to replace the front wheel hub assembly since I changed my mind on doing it before. Vatozone sent me home with the wrong wheel hub assemblies, 3/16" too short.
Lessons learned
1. You need the clam shell type bearing separator to remove the bearings off of the carrier. For the front carrier anyway. Saves you from wasting an hour grinding some of the old race in hopes the bearing puller you got from Vatozone will get enough bite to work.
2. There are two shims on the front carrier bearings, so don't miss one of them and figure it out after you put the carrier back in. Saves you from having to removed the carrier, the bearing, and putting another bearing on because you destroyed the new one to get it off.
3. Measure your spacing on your wheel hub assembly before installing rotors, calipers, and tires so the rotor wont bind up against the spindle after the tire is on. Saves you from having to take everything back apart and make another trip to the parts store for correct part.
4. Use a 3/16 long shaft pin punch to drive out the roll pin that holds in the cross shaft rod. Trying anything else is simple a waste of an hour or two.
5. The carrier has to come out of the front diff and the pinion ring gear has to come off to get the cross shaft rod out. You can get the roll pin out and get the cross shaft to move, but it won't clear the teeth on the pinion ring gear.
6. Because the carrier does not need to be removed on the 8.25 diff, it is easier to install the rear Aussie locker than the front.
Lessons learned
1. You need the clam shell type bearing separator to remove the bearings off of the carrier. For the front carrier anyway. Saves you from wasting an hour grinding some of the old race in hopes the bearing puller you got from Vatozone will get enough bite to work.
2. There are two shims on the front carrier bearings, so don't miss one of them and figure it out after you put the carrier back in. Saves you from having to removed the carrier, the bearing, and putting another bearing on because you destroyed the new one to get it off.
3. Measure your spacing on your wheel hub assembly before installing rotors, calipers, and tires so the rotor wont bind up against the spindle after the tire is on. Saves you from having to take everything back apart and make another trip to the parts store for correct part.
4. Use a 3/16 long shaft pin punch to drive out the roll pin that holds in the cross shaft rod. Trying anything else is simple a waste of an hour or two.
5. The carrier has to come out of the front diff and the pinion ring gear has to come off to get the cross shaft rod out. You can get the roll pin out and get the cross shaft to move, but it won't clear the teeth on the pinion ring gear.
6. Because the carrier does not need to be removed on the 8.25 diff, it is easier to install the rear Aussie locker than the front.
Last edited by Houston Kid; 08-12-2013 at 10:55 AM.
#159
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Locker update. They do make some noise when turning, but heck, its a Jeep, noise is part of the deal.
As far as locking goes, work great.
As far as locking goes, work great.
#160
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The Aussie Lockers are f-ing awesome. They do click rather loudly when turning, but its a Jeep and noise is not a concern of mine. Climbed some rocks at the beach today that I would have never made up before.
I also found a sunken Suburban between High Island and Sabine Pass TX on the beach.
I also found a sunken Suburban between High Island and Sabine Pass TX on the beach.
#161
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Added the rear bumper and bull bar last weekend and light bar today. I wanted to mount the light bar under the bull bar but the brackets would not work.
#164
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Light bar puts out good light.
It is a combo spot/flood.
It is a combo spot/flood.
Last edited by Houston Kid; 09-14-2013 at 08:42 PM.
#165
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Year: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
AC compressor pulley bearing went out. Here are the pics of the destroyed bearing.
New compressor is in now and by days end I will have a fully functional used one after I replace the bearing.
New compressor is in now and by days end I will have a fully functional used one after I replace the bearing.