the limited hero
#121
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Location: clackamas,or
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
I do plan to leave it in for offroad. So far haven't needed recovery for myself and my girl don't get in much trouble yet. nothing I haven't been able to get her out of with some rock stacking or hoping on the back bumper. If it does come down to it I have a receiver hook I can swap places with the tire carrier. In the future I plan on making something so I don't have to remove it at all.
#122
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I do plan to leave it in for offroad. So far haven't needed recovery for myself and my girl don't get in much trouble yet. nothing I haven't been able to get her out of with some rock stacking or hoping on the back bumper. If it does come down to it I have a receiver hook I can swap places with the tire carrier. In the future I plan on making something so I don't have to remove it at all.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces.../Curt/E-9.html
#123
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I wheeled with a guy that had a receiver tube mounted 5-6"s to the left of the center receiver . With as good as you can fab you could just take one of these tubes and weld it on so that you still have a way to tow or can have a recovery point with out removing you carrier. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces.../Curt/E-9.html
#124
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
I don't mind it blocking the window, I can still see with my side mirrors and there is enough room on each side of the tire for good view when head checking.
#125
CF Veteran
The reason for it is so you can tow a trailer and still have a spare. I only have a 31" tire right now, but I don't think a 33" tire will make it so I can't see either. You just don't see the person behind the wheel cursing at you if you aren't driving as aggressive as he is!
#126
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
Stupid Toyota filter fix is on its way. I ordered a jegs universal remote oil filter kit it's the cheapest and most complete kit I have found and unlike the rest of them out there it comes with 12' of hose instead of 5' or nothing.
Can't wait to get it installed on i will have no worries when I play in rocks about smashing oil filters.
Can't wait to get it installed on i will have no worries when I play in rocks about smashing oil filters.
#127
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
I picked up a cheap license plate light yesterday, the final resting place for the plate will be driver side lower corner on the hatch. Just need to paint a couple things, do a tiny bit of wiring and drill couple small holes.
#128
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
Planning on some upgrades this weekend. Due to a leaking MC and booster maybe getting brake fluid inside. Going tomorrow to get a dual diaphragm booster with MC. Should be a straight forward swap since I have already swapped to 91+ stuff. Also going to install my remote oil filter kit now i have figured a location for it. I will mount it where the evap canister is since mine has been disconnected for a awhile now. The reason behind that is so I can still do a cowl snorkel at the top part of the firewall in that general area. I'll get some pic have I'm done.
#129
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
Got two out of three project done yesterday.
License plate mounted and light mounted and wired.
Swapped to dual diaphragm booster only thing I need to modify was my lines and super glue a few washers to my brake switch. No rod modifications which I liked.
One thing I did learn was that the 91+ MC lines to prop valve the fittings can flipped. The fittings in my porp valve were frozen in and I used vice grips to remove them.
License plate mounted and light mounted and wired.
Swapped to dual diaphragm booster only thing I need to modify was my lines and super glue a few washers to my brake switch. No rod modifications which I liked.
One thing I did learn was that the 91+ MC lines to prop valve the fittings can flipped. The fittings in my porp valve were frozen in and I used vice grips to remove them.
#130
CF Veteran
Yeah it is always good to just clamp on them with vise grips and break them loose so that you don't strip them with line wrenches. Learned that watching someone's u-tube video after I already made that mistake. Did you replace your lines going from the P-valve to the master cylinder? When I did mine I went to O'riellys auto parts the guy at the counter got a pre flared stick ($6) with the correct size fitting at both ends that worked going into the P-valve, so that all I had to do is cut it in half and flare the other end to fit the M-cylinder using the fittings the originally where on the old lines. Just had to us a wire to make some templates to follow.
#133
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My XJs' brakes were so sketchy that when I went to do my up-grade I decided to just do a complete overhaul on the front and rear brakes completely. New everything drums rotors calipers, every brake related part you could replace I did. I am very pleased with the way my brakes are working.
#134
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
Since the swap brakes have been great but was having a metal grinding noise I thought since the braking power is better that my pads were worn but didn't notice it with the old set up. Then found this after showing up to work this morning.
There is a home Depot real close to work so I'm going over there to get a replacement and fix it before I drive home.
There is a home Depot real close to work so I'm going over there to get a replacement and fix it before I drive home.
#135
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: h.o. 4.0l
Just wasted my lunch break going to home Depot, they didn't have anything close in thread pitch in the size needed. Glad there is a specialty bolt place up the road. But have to wait till after work.